I spent $45 and about 1 hour total time, replaced both Camshaft Phasers (or position sensors), and the van runs very smoothly now. After two days, the check-engine light turned off on its own.


Hopefully the "fuel-economy" selector in the center-console-lower area (same bank as the hazard lights are on), will begin working again. Thx Jim

 

OK - help please. I have cleared all codes an no check/dummy lights are on, however still:

1. The Fuel Econ button is not lit or giving any indication of working.
2. Upon start-up, the engine still "surges" sometimes. After being warmed up, seems to run smoothly.

Thanks,
Jim

 

Help - is it possible the Fuel Relay circuit and Fuel Economy button are interrelated? There is not code, and no burned fuse. How can I trouble shoot this? Jim

 

... Bueller? Bueller? Ferris Bueller?

 

Vehicle continues to throw P0003 and Camshaft position codes. I have replaced both camshaft position sensors and replaced all plugs and coils.

I went to the dealer today - basically said the following: "... we need to tear down the engine and replace the camshaft." I started asking questions, then they came back with, "... its the camshaft code, perhaps not the actual camshaft. Lots of things touch the camshaft."

I said, "... is this why the vehicle is surging when it is cold and throwing Random Misfire codes?" They, "... yes, the camshaft is the root cause."

Has anyone else heard or seen this? Has anyone been successful finding and solving the root cause of combination of Random Misfire, and Camshaft Position Sensor codes?
Thx Jim

 

more - is it possible that when the new TIPM was installed, and the "fuel relay bypass" was left installed (this was the remedy attempt to the first bad TIPM), that the New TIPM and this extra bypass, are in conflict and poor fueling is causing the codes? thx

 

All - problems persist with my 2011 T&C. Since posting, the vehicle habitually throws P0300 and P000B codes. I have replaced the VVT solenoids, Camshaft phasers, numerous oil changes to flush any potential debris, and now can offer the following pics of the freeze frame with P0300:


I've read that P0300 can be thrown early by a confusion of the Open or Closed Loop system and tied to O2 sensors of Engine Coolant Sensor. Any tips from these readings would be great!!


The main symptom (besides the codes) are that upon startup, the engine will "surge" up/down in RPM for about 1-2 minutes, before leveling off in a nice smooth running state. This primary happens on a start up, AFTER the engine is already warm.


The engine runs like a sewing machine. This is not a POS. There is some type of confusion taking place in the lean/rich messeging in the first 1-2 minutes after the vehicle is started. That is my take. Jim

 

OK - having received zero input, on my own assessment, I believe I have finally addressed both the P0300 and P000B codes:

To summarize: "in the beginning", the van ran perfect. There became a "crank-no-start" condition, and finally "no-start." I took it to my local guy, who tried wrong things, then determined the TIPM Fuel relay was bad. He them replaced the TIPM, but didn't wire the bundle correctly. He then installed the "Fuel Relay Bypass Kit", and returned the car to me with incorrect electrical connections in the bundle (IE, turn signal would activate headlights, that type of bad stuff."

I took the car to the dealer whom kept it for 45 minutes, and simply returned it to me free of charge stating, "... we corrected the wire bundle." At that point - everything worked EXCEPT THE FUEL ECON BUTTON (mid-deck placement near the Hazard button).

Car seemed to run fine - then shortly began 3 simultaneous new behaviors:
1. Upon COLD start, would seem find.
1.a. Upon WARM start, vehicle idle would surge up/down for 1 minute, then settle out.
2. Car began throwing P0300 code
3. Car began throwing P000B code

After significant code research, I replaced the following over the last 8 months: Crank shaft position sensors, Plugs, Coils, VVT Solenoids, multiple oil changes, Sea-foam Intake cleaner, cleaned MAP sensor.

After each process, car seemed fine, then would "surge" on warm start, then throw P0300 and/or P000B.

I then took out the TIPM and ensured the "Fuel Relay bypass" was installed correctly. It was OK.

After much thought, and ZERO online evidence of this problem and cure, I surmised the following: The SURGING was cause by lack of fuel, and the Codes were an actual result of a intermittent fuel condition.

I went back to the original root cause. I believed the new Fuel Relay Bypass was performing intermittently, or acting up once hot from engine area.

This morning I replaced the Fuel Relay, and relocated it slightly higher and more outboard that where it was.

Result is perfect running. Has not thrown a code yet, and most importantly - no more surgeon on warm-start.

I truly hope this is the final solution. Fingers crossed!!

Jim

Chrysler Town & country, dodge caravan, 3.6L VVT, P0300, P00B, surging, stalling, erratic idle

 

After some driving, the car is largely "better", but will still throw a P0300 or P000B sometimes.

Today's new event: Police pull me over and give a "fix it ticket." Apparently my Lower Brake Lights are not working, or illuminating with the brake pedal is depressed.

Facts:
1. When I use my key to open a left or right side door, the lower brake lights illuminate perfectly fine.
2. When I depress the brake pedal, ONLY the top center bar light illuminates.
3. I wen to auto parts store and replaced the "brake pedal switch" since it was a $10.00 part - made no difference.

I checked EVERY fuse in in the TIPM, and all are 100%. Is there another fuse box in this car?
Thanks for any help. If you know what this is, please email me at jimwoodward89@gmail.com

 

No, all the fuses are in the TIPM.