2012 T&C Lots of Codes Plus Flashing ETC and ABS on Dash
My wife made it home in limp mode but lots of codes.
P0869: Transmission Fluid Pressure High
P0714: Trans Fluid Temp Sensor A Circuit Intermittent
P0365: Camshaft Position Sensor B Circuit (Bank 1)
P0340: Camshaft Position Sensor A Circuit (Bank 1)
P0390: Camshaft Position Sensor B Circuit (Bank 2)
P0345: Camshaft Position Sensor A Circuit (Bank 2)
P0108: MAP Pressure Circuit High Input
P2181: Cooling System Performance Code
P0456: EVAP Control System Leak Detected Very Small Leak
I cleared all the codes, took it for a test drive about 1 mi. on the highway running it really hard.
Drove fine, no engine noises, shifted fine etc.
1 mi. back but when I turned from the highway traffic light they came back.
i.e. reduced performance, and all codes except EVAP (not worried about that...yet)
Engine is very clean on top, no leaks on bottom, checked MAP and wiring, very clean and no visibly corroded or frayed wires.
136K miles
Any help is appreciated
P0869: Transmission Fluid Pressure High
P0714: Trans Fluid Temp Sensor A Circuit Intermittent
P0365: Camshaft Position Sensor B Circuit (Bank 1)
P0340: Camshaft Position Sensor A Circuit (Bank 1)
P0390: Camshaft Position Sensor B Circuit (Bank 2)
P0345: Camshaft Position Sensor A Circuit (Bank 2)
P0108: MAP Pressure Circuit High Input
P2181: Cooling System Performance Code
P0456: EVAP Control System Leak Detected Very Small Leak
I cleared all the codes, took it for a test drive about 1 mi. on the highway running it really hard.
Drove fine, no engine noises, shifted fine etc.
1 mi. back but when I turned from the highway traffic light they came back.
i.e. reduced performance, and all codes except EVAP (not worried about that...yet)
Engine is very clean on top, no leaks on bottom, checked MAP and wiring, very clean and no visibly corroded or frayed wires.
136K miles
Any help is appreciated
I suspect you may have an electrical problem because of the numerous unrelated codes, trans, cooling, camshaft, evap, etc.
How old is the battery? The electronics in these cars are sensitive to good stable voltage. Battery should read 12.4 volts to 12.6 volts with the engine off. Anything less indicates a failing battery. With the engine running you should see around 14.2 volts (13.8 - 14.6 is acceptable). Under 13.8 indicates a possible failing alternator. Note this is a quick test; there are additional tests that require more than a voltmeter for a diagnosis.
You could also have a grounding issue. If these sensors share a common ground that is corroded, it will cause the sensors to weird out. I don't have a wiring diagram so I am not able to help with this.
How old is the battery? The electronics in these cars are sensitive to good stable voltage. Battery should read 12.4 volts to 12.6 volts with the engine off. Anything less indicates a failing battery. With the engine running you should see around 14.2 volts (13.8 - 14.6 is acceptable). Under 13.8 indicates a possible failing alternator. Note this is a quick test; there are additional tests that require more than a voltmeter for a diagnosis.
You could also have a grounding issue. If these sensors share a common ground that is corroded, it will cause the sensors to weird out. I don't have a wiring diagram so I am not able to help with this.
Thanks, I did check the battery (14.3v) running
Interestingly, it will not rev above 3000 rpm in park but went to 6500 on the highway, 1st through 4th manually.
So far, I removed the MAP and it, and its connector were very clean. I then drove it again on the same circuit and no codes this time. We don't have a car shortage and It needs some regular maintenance anyway, front brakes/rotors (which I had already bought) fall oil change etc. This is where I'm going to start;
I ordered new plugs and upper intake gaskets, two new cam position sensors, MAP sensor, and a crank position sensor. It does have 136k and I believe the plugs were replaced but not sure. The previous owner said it had been in for the 100k service since it had 102k when we bought it. The parts are a little over $200 on Amazon and might as well replace them while its open, It certainly will not hurt. BTW I bought all Mopar sensors.
I'll get a chance to clean the throttle body, check wiring and clean the connectors as I go, I'll clean connectors on the ECU as well. It just seemed to be some sort of wiring/ground issue because all the codes are thrown at once.
Any comments let me know and I'll keep you informed.
Interestingly, it will not rev above 3000 rpm in park but went to 6500 on the highway, 1st through 4th manually.
So far, I removed the MAP and it, and its connector were very clean. I then drove it again on the same circuit and no codes this time. We don't have a car shortage and It needs some regular maintenance anyway, front brakes/rotors (which I had already bought) fall oil change etc. This is where I'm going to start;
I ordered new plugs and upper intake gaskets, two new cam position sensors, MAP sensor, and a crank position sensor. It does have 136k and I believe the plugs were replaced but not sure. The previous owner said it had been in for the 100k service since it had 102k when we bought it. The parts are a little over $200 on Amazon and might as well replace them while its open, It certainly will not hurt. BTW I bought all Mopar sensors.
I'll get a chance to clean the throttle body, check wiring and clean the connectors as I go, I'll clean connectors on the ECU as well. It just seemed to be some sort of wiring/ground issue because all the codes are thrown at once.
Any comments let me know and I'll keep you informed.
Last edited by WooDoggie; Oct 10, 2020 at 04:11 PM.
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