The cold starting problem has reared it's head again so this year I thought I'd start with the alternator/glowplugs/battery and work my way to the really expensive stuff.
Little test meter showed alternator and battery as ok.
Took a battery voltage, 12.1v
Charging at 14.2v.
So suspected battery. Took it to be tested where bought from in February Their tester showed it as good, requiring recharge (one figure on battery is 640, the machine said it was putting out 320).
I recharged it, and the battery was saying 12.6v. By this morning it's 12.3v
So I checked for anything draining it. For 20 secs approx after connecting an ammeter, theres a 750mA draw. This then drops to 160mA.
If I disconnect the IOD fuse it drops to 60mA. This dissappears when I pull an inline fuse on a cable attached directly to the battery. This looks like it's been done professionally and probably from new and has a 40a/32v orange fuse in it (c2900). The car still starts with this fuse removed and everything still seems to work.
So after all that, my question was, is a 160mA drain standard on a 2.5 diesel grand voyager.

 

160mA is too high. I think it should be around 30mA.

As for what's causing it.......I'm not sure, but there are a few posts on here on the subject in the past, which might give you some clues.

 

Had another look at the other threads and now that I know the IOD fuse gets rid of 100mA, spotted it mentioned.
Next port of calls the alarm battery at the front left headlight? Coincidentally, the other cable attached to the battery accounting for the other 60mA runs towards the same area (behind the left headlight).
Once thats out the way I'll concentrate on other things that can take a supply from the IOD.

Bring back the old Vauxhalls when the first port of call was the light in the boot lol.

 

Your AMP draw should be MAX about 30 mA even with the IOD installed. You need to watch the meter for MAYBE up to 30 minutes after a power down. The modules have to go to "sleep" before you can get an accurate reading. Then go from there. As far as what component, I don't have CRD minivans in the states so can't help you there.

 

TNtech is correct you need to let it go to sleep. The extra fuse could be tow bar? I have seen the micro switch in the tow bar keep it awake.

 

Thanks for the replies.
After 30 mins, whatevers powered by the fuse is gone too. That leaves 90mA.
I've been in under the left (nearside)headlight, disconnected everything under there (2x horns and whatever else is there).
Disconnected everything behind the glove box and I also disconnected the tailgate.
I've since discovered my rear lights dont work (brake tail or fog, indicators do). The high level light still works as should (brake and tail).
I'd plugged a lighting board into the tow socket too and it worked ok with the orange fuse pulled.
And yep, when I discovered the lights not working I put the fuse back in but no change.
Even with the iod pulled and only drawing 10mA the batterys losing .3v overnight so that'll be getting changed too.
I'll just need to keep at it.

 

Just a partial update, eventually got a new battery under warranty as even after 2 "rescue" charges on the battery manufacturers charger, the Cold Cranking Amps only hit 400.
Since then, it's never needed jump started again and can handle the fact that too much currents being drawn when everythings off (only 30mA not the 90mA I originally thought).
It still started poorly so I dismantled the glow plug relay. It seemed to have a poor internal connection.
Spot of soldering in the relay and it's starting fine (-17 this morning here and the same again tonight for coming home from work, 3 seperate cars confirmed the temp). It had also sat for 3 days.
Thinking the current draw is down to the lighting problem, I'll try a couple of things before starting a new thread on that one.
Thanks again for all the help, I may not be sable to contribute much but the advice from others is most welcome.

Just noticed a couple of you have mentioned 30mA so that seems ok.

Cheers,