Something like an alternator, I would never buy online, because if there is a problem during the warranty period, you have to wait for the replacement, rather than just stop at the store you bought it from.

 

From your first message, I would have said after trying to start, immediately see if one of the battery terminals was hot. In the old days, this was a classic for poor or no cranking all of a sudden. Sometimes corrosion got under the battery terminal between it and the lead post. The fix was simply to clean the terminal to bright metal with a round file, and scrape the lead terminal so revealing bright lead.
Leedsman.

 

Nice to welcome you back [18 months too long] Leedsman.

 

Hi Quinteq, and it's nice to be back too, I've had such a lot on my plate (as they used to say) recently concerning my brother who has dementia and is in a very expensive care home. Don't ever accept power of attorney, it's more like misery of attorney with all the complication, paperwork and suspicion. Get a lawyer to do it.
But getting back to the point of the website, withe op's problem, all the ground straps should also be checked, the one from engine to chassis, the battery -ve to chassis, and the gearbox to chassis if fitted.

Question:
I'm about to fit an engine pre-heater which will properly start heating the coolant directly to the engine block. Unlike those fitted into the bottom hose to the radiator, it will not attempt to pump hot water into a closed thermostat. It will use a completely different coolant circuit altogether with about 1.8Kw power and forced circulation.
Since the "boffins" all say one should pre-heat the sump oil as well as the coolant, I shall deal with this too. To do a proper job, one needs to pre-heat BOTH the sump oil AND the coolant.
By bringing the coolant and sump oil temps to near normal all sorts of advantages accrue.
1) The awful fuel consumption of a cold diesel engine is avoided, esp. with it taking so long to warm up,unlike a petrol.
2) The cost of very lightly taxed electricity at around 2Kw-hours is much less than very heavily taxed fuel. Around 15p. per Kwh. And if you use economy 7.....
3) When it's O*C outside, the heater works and esp. the demister for the windscreen.
4) It's well-proven fact that engine wear is almost eliminated as 85 to 90% of it is during the warm-up period
By keeping the Grand voyager serviced, and driven appropropriately, I peaked the UK mpg at 36.4mpg on one journey, the internal measuring system being used which I have tested as being quite accurate, unlike some. Not bad for a vehicle weighing 2.4 tonsUS. Mine IS a diesel however, the 2.8 plus autobox. There is so much bottom end torque with it being a diesel AND a torque converter in the box, it will leave just about everything behind on a green light. Just put the pedal to the metal folks.
So....shall I write a piece about the pre-heater? BTW, not to bias anyone, the total cost of mine was around £25. Not £250 minimum for a conventional bottom hose job.
Leedsman.

 

I REM the business with your brother, I confess I know little of the power of attorney, it does sound like an expensive legal minefield. I've got a factory fitted Webasto Water Top and yes I'm a very big believer. Id be interested in your heater.