Hi All,

During the recent cold snap here in the UK, I tried to start our 2.8 CRD 2006 GV.

It did not want to turn-over, but it did. It sounded bad, and I left it alone for a couple of weeks until the weather got better.

Trying to start it now, and it sounds awful.

I think the cam belt may have slipped, and I wonder if anyone knows what kind of damage will have been done.

A friend had a similar thing with a (petrol) Vauxhall years ago, and just replacing the belt was enough. It seems there was enough clearance between the valves and pistons.

So I have a few questions:

How do I tell if the belt has slipped?
What is the clearance like on these engines?
Is it worth fitting a new belt?
How easy is it to change the belt?

If not, this one will have to be sold for spares, and a new "bus" acquired...

~Trap

 

Don't know how to tell if the belt has slipped, but here's a thread from when mines snapped on my first GV.
I've linked to it because it appears a slipped belt does damage as well, and one poster says it's reasonably easy to get access.

https://www.chryslerforum.com/forum/...-damage-10979/

I put my costings on the thread, but spares prices have came down a lot since then.

Rockers and tappets are avaliable for £9.50 on Ebay (you'll need 8 if damage has been done), with a timing kit including water pump for £120. I was £185 for a water pump alone.
You can get a timing pin set (needed I think if it's a snapped belt, might be the same if it has slipped) for £18, and a puller, (which may well be needed as the injectors can be a pain to get out), can be bought for £140.
So possibly £400 for parts (including new rocker gasket) Or £260 if you can get your injectors out.


Here's another thread that suggests there's a fault code for a skipped timing belt.

https://www.chryslerforum.com/forum/...slipped-15297/

Here's how to do the key dance if you don't know already, courtesy of QinteQ

 

@Scotsman4th thank you sir, I will investigate!

 

If you past 100000miles with out change the timing belt it's likely snap .

You need to loosen the belt cover and have a look (just on the top you might need to prye it to have a look) , don't try to start it again before you check the belt . or you will damage the rocker/valves .

It will take some work to get access to rocker arms . Injectors need to be pull to get the cover of .

Did this work a few years back got some pic. in my library on this site.

 

https://www.chryslerforum.com/g/album/7642332

 

Thanks for the pics @dieselvoyager.

I know the belt is not broken. When I last turned the engine over, a friend watched the camshaft through the oil filler, and could see it turning.

I am sure therefore that the belt has slipped rather than broken.

What damage has been caused is still un-known.

I am currently doing all the research on this to find out what I need to know. So far I have learnt:

To replace the timing belt (if it is still timed correctly) is about a 3 hour job.
Timing Belt kit with tensioner and idle pulleys is £112 on . (The idler pulleys are held in place with LEFT hand thread bolts.)
The is a Diesel Engine setting kit on for £18
There is a set of lifters and rockers on for £140 ish.
The Rocker Cover Gasket is on Ebay for £28.

I can see how the kit can be used to KEEP the timing of the belt, but I am not sure how to SET the timing of the belt.

Assuming (usually bad idea to assume) that the timing is not a long way out, then I need to get the engine to 90° past TDC (so the crank can be locked). Then get the camshafts to their nearest registration hole for the tool kit to fit.

Is this right? Is there another way?

I am not sure if the rockers have been damaged. Would I be able to see this with an inspection camera down the oil-filler tube?

Thanks in advance for any help

 

This might help with the timing kit.

https://www.tooled-up.com/artwork/prodpdf/vs4945.pdf

 

The main problem is the waterpump , many forget to change this . Next owner also forget and the pump is 9 out of 10 times the root course .

The waterpump is a pain to change but it's mandatory in my opinion.

The timing is a little tricky course some of the timing is not top dead center so you realy need to read the timing instruction carefull.

There is a small plug there you can lock the camshafts with a small bolt(not normal bolt)
And there is hole behind the starter there you can lock the flyewheel but carefull there is 2 holes in the flyewheel depending on the timing point.

I bught the timing tools on ebay.co.uk "VM engine timing tool"

 

@deiselvoyager Did you get the one I linked above with 8 parts, or the one in @Scotsman4th's PDF with 6 parts?

Going with the Cam Belt Kit which includes the water pump is only going to increases costs by about £31, and is available on for £143.

I see from a Bulgarian video I watched (but did not understand a word of ) that this will increase the amount of time it will take to do the job considerably. But I think you are right @dieselvoyager, it is a must-do job while we are this deep.

 

mine is the 8 pcs. tool kit but the 6 pcs. kit will do the job.

3 lock pin and the spanner to belt tension roller.

The last job i did i had to remove the cam gear wheel course I was not sure it was allign propper after the accident and the cam wheels is not secure with a key so if you undue the cam wheel bolt you are f... if you don't have the lock pins.

I made a spanner to holde the cam wheel when loosing and mount the wheel again.

Also you might need to remove the whole camgear housing to change the waterpump.