Central locking issue on my 2005 Voyager
#1
05-21-2010, 01:29 AM
Central locking issue on my 2005 Voyager
Hello,
The Central locking system on my 2005 Voyager has an issue where it will stop working, but can be reset by disconnecting the battery. I have to disconnect the vehicle battery for 10 mins and this resets the central locking and all is fine. If I drive 2 mile down the road, the central locking fails to work again. I can once again disconnect the battery and all will be fine again.
The remote works fine with the slide doors working from it and also the alarm is activated. Any ideas on where the problem may lie and has anyone seen this problem? Is it the central locking module?
I would gratefully receive all members feedback please.
Thank you.
The Central locking system on my 2005 Voyager has an issue where it will stop working, but can be reset by disconnecting the battery. I have to disconnect the vehicle battery for 10 mins and this resets the central locking and all is fine. If I drive 2 mile down the road, the central locking fails to work again. I can once again disconnect the battery and all will be fine again.
The remote works fine with the slide doors working from it and also the alarm is activated. Any ideas on where the problem may lie and has anyone seen this problem? Is it the central locking module?
I would gratefully receive all members feedback please.
Thank you.
#3
07-11-2017, 12:45 PM
Hi from sunny Rome!
the central locking system stopped working without...notice on my Voyager 2.5 CRD 2006.
I followed jp2417 procedure and disconnect the battery for 10 min and after that it starts working again.
I hope it was an event due to high temperature of these days 37/40C - 98/104F and car in a sunny parking for days...
@Merlin :what does it mean "Software update for the body control module".
Thanks!
the central locking system stopped working without...notice on my Voyager 2.5 CRD 2006.
I followed jp2417 procedure and disconnect the battery for 10 min and after that it starts working again.
I hope it was an event due to high temperature of these days 37/40C - 98/104F and car in a sunny parking for days...
@Merlin :what does it mean "Software update for the body control module".
Thanks!
#4
07-12-2017, 03:55 AM
This is a really common one, the BCM will detect a 'problem' with the central locking solenoids and will stop operating them.
My last GV had exactly this problem and I never got to the bottom of it and didn't want to throw pointless money at the dealership as they couldn't guarantee applying the software fix would solve it.
To avoid taking the battery terminal off, pop the IOD fuse out for a minute then back in, and it'll get you up and running again without messing about with the battery terminals.
Here is the IOD location in case you need it:
My last GV had exactly this problem and I never got to the bottom of it and didn't want to throw pointless money at the dealership as they couldn't guarantee applying the software fix would solve it.
To avoid taking the battery terminal off, pop the IOD fuse out for a minute then back in, and it'll get you up and running again without messing about with the battery terminals.
Here is the IOD location in case you need it:
#6
07-14-2017, 09:08 AM
tonight I'll look for the IOD to be disconnected to rest the system...
#7
07-15-2017, 01:39 PM
From here.
No EURO FOB has a sixth button. Look at your existing FOB already has the 6th microswitch & membrane, it just does not have the 6th raised rubber button called 'panic'. Most 'auto-locksmiths will have a ready supply of stocks for this stuff, whether they go much farther back than a decade I've no idea.
Chrysler and Dodge vehicles from the 2005 timeframe use a keyless entry system developed originally for the Mercedes brand. The system actually implements the driver convenience and safety functions, an immobilization function designed to prevent vehicle theft, and sets the alarm state off and on. Different buttons on the EURO FOB variously :
- lock and unlock all doors on the vehicle, or drivers door only
- one [not in the UK or Europe] is a panic button that can be pushed to sound an alarm
- one is power lift [boot] gate
- one each for both left & right motorised sliding doors
What the panic button does is allow a user to program up to 4 different transmitters, in order to do this the panic button needs to exist and be used.
How the earlier than 2004 LOGIC behaves I've no idea !
Some several years ago I bought a 6 button case & blade from this bloke as an experiment on the 'panic' button programming. His Chrysler stuff is here. The pcb from our standard 5 button fob has the 6 button internals which are complete and do fit ok.
The problem I had was that there is an internal [Cellophane like] 'conductive tracked membrane' for all 6 micro switches which corresponds to the 6th button which I can't seem get hold of in the UK. In conclusion the 6th button is on our fob's, the 6 button key can be bought for £4 above, the 'tracked membrane on our UK version is missing the track that connects the existing 6th micro-switch.
The 'locked' [to Chrysler] ID46 transponder chips are widely available, don't make the mistake of buying the commonly available peugeot one - they may be [locked] different. Regarding the 6 button FOB's, like yourself I have never managed to find one in the UK. I did find the 6 button Blank Blade Remote Key Case shells here in the UK. Your PCB will go straight into the FOB and the panic button will be in the correct place directly over the micro button but will still not work. What's missing is the etched (1) conductive membrane that goes between the (2) PCB and the (3) FOB shell to translate the KEYPRESS.
In short unless you can get the conductive membrane that goes between the PCB and the FOB shell you still cant make a keypress. The combination key & FOB with the 6th button can be had from America such as this one here.
- I know that the existing UK FOB has all the 6 button microswitches, but has only a 5 conductive tracked membrane
- I make the assumption that any 6 button FOB or keyFOB [remote head key] shell is just that a shell
- you can transfer the internals along with the 6 microswitched PCB a from 5 to 6 button FOB but only 5 buttons will work
What I have always assumed will work [forget the grey transponder key for the minute] is get a second hand complete with conductive tracked membrane fob from America ebay, then transfer your existing 6 button EURO PCB into the 6 button panic fob complete with its conductive tracked membrane and you have a working and programmable 6 button FOB. If you take apart your existing 5 button UK or EURO FOB you will find you have a complete 6 microswitched PCB with only 5 'traced' conductive tracked membrane. Programming is here.
The '6 conductive tracked membrane' I mentioned along with the corresponding rubber buttons can be seen here. The membrane on its own is here. Here's a different shaped one for a Jeep. All Chrysler remotes 2/3/4/5/6 Button FCC ID:OHT692427AA work on 315mhz. Other 'panic button' related FOBS are here.
NOTE : SomeChinese sites calls it a plastic sheet, you can see the conductive tracking between the microswitch nodes.
- if the cars brain must be programmed with a country code - and it has !
- then the 'disallowed' customer preference can not be re-programmed from the FOB
- so telling the alarm to 'bleep' or seatbelt to 'chime' is only allowed if its allowable under the country code
- the country code can be re-set to any on of the 11 [I think] anytime, but you need a capable diagnostic scanner to do that
Take for one example the 'beep on lock & unlock', this used to be a standard default in the UK and 99.9% of vehicles had it. At some point in the distant past the Euro government invented a law banning alarm beeps [noise pollution] on activation and de activation of the alarm feature on European imported vehicles, my understanding of the current laws is that the arm and disarm indication beeps is strictly forbidden in all EU countries.
What you would need to do is find out which countries did [for your car build year software version] allow 'beep on lock & unlock' and change the country code to that country, so for example if the US did allow 'beep on lock & unlock' you would use a capable scanner to change the country code to US then change the US miles to kilometres on the overhead display preferences. Your first question is - is it really worth all that trouble. Most indi garages here will do this change country protocol for £30UKP, ask your local indi's what they charge, tell them first its in the BCM section of the scanner, then under customer preferences.
_______________
The IOD
_______________
There are IOD 7 functions that are 'live' when you think your car and battery are asleep, they pull a combined 0.025 ampere draw. I used a Maplins cheepo solar panel which cost me £15 at the time, and I have never been unable to start the car since.
IGNITION-OFF DRAW TEST - reproduced from the workshop manual - NOTE - My Bold.
The term Ignition-Off Draw (IOD) identifies a normal condition where power is being drained from the battery with the ignition switch in the Off position. A normal vehicle electrical system will draw from fifteen to twenty five milliamperes (0.015 to 0.025 ampere) with the ignition switch in the Off position, and all non-ignition controlled circuits in proper working order. Up to twenty-five milliamperes are needed to enable the memory functions for the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), digital clock, electronically tuned radio, and other modules which may vary with the vehicle equipment. A vehicle that has not been operated for approximately twenty one days, may discharge the battery to an inadequate level. When a vehicle will not be used for twenty one days or more (stored), remove the IOD fuse from the Integrated Power Module (IPM). This will reduce battery discharging. Excessive IOD can be caused by:
• Electrical items left on.
• Faulty or improperly adjusted switches.
• Faulty or shorted electronic modules and components.
• An internally shorted generator.
• Intermittent shorts in the wiring
NOTE : The IOD fuse [14] shown by Andy has a ledge built in by Chrysler design, such that it doesn't need to be fully pulled but rather can sit on the ledge and easily re-inserted
Best of luck my friends. Hope this helps your understanding.
No EURO FOB has a sixth button. Look at your existing FOB already has the 6th microswitch & membrane, it just does not have the 6th raised rubber button called 'panic'. Most 'auto-locksmiths will have a ready supply of stocks for this stuff, whether they go much farther back than a decade I've no idea.
Chrysler and Dodge vehicles from the 2005 timeframe use a keyless entry system developed originally for the Mercedes brand. The system actually implements the driver convenience and safety functions, an immobilization function designed to prevent vehicle theft, and sets the alarm state off and on. Different buttons on the EURO FOB variously :
- lock and unlock all doors on the vehicle, or drivers door only
- one [not in the UK or Europe] is a panic button that can be pushed to sound an alarm
- one is power lift [boot] gate
- one each for both left & right motorised sliding doors
What the panic button does is allow a user to program up to 4 different transmitters, in order to do this the panic button needs to exist and be used.
How the earlier than 2004 LOGIC behaves I've no idea !
Some several years ago I bought a 6 button case & blade from this bloke as an experiment on the 'panic' button programming. His Chrysler stuff is here. The pcb from our standard 5 button fob has the 6 button internals which are complete and do fit ok.
The problem I had was that there is an internal [Cellophane like] 'conductive tracked membrane' for all 6 micro switches which corresponds to the 6th button which I can't seem get hold of in the UK. In conclusion the 6th button is on our fob's, the 6 button key can be bought for £4 above, the 'tracked membrane on our UK version is missing the track that connects the existing 6th micro-switch.
The 'locked' [to Chrysler] ID46 transponder chips are widely available, don't make the mistake of buying the commonly available peugeot one - they may be [locked] different. Regarding the 6 button FOB's, like yourself I have never managed to find one in the UK. I did find the 6 button Blank Blade Remote Key Case shells here in the UK. Your PCB will go straight into the FOB and the panic button will be in the correct place directly over the micro button but will still not work. What's missing is the etched (1) conductive membrane that goes between the (2) PCB and the (3) FOB shell to translate the KEYPRESS.
In short unless you can get the conductive membrane that goes between the PCB and the FOB shell you still cant make a keypress. The combination key & FOB with the 6th button can be had from America such as this one here.
- I know that the existing UK FOB has all the 6 button microswitches, but has only a 5 conductive tracked membrane
- I make the assumption that any 6 button FOB or keyFOB [remote head key] shell is just that a shell
- you can transfer the internals along with the 6 microswitched PCB a from 5 to 6 button FOB but only 5 buttons will work
What I have always assumed will work [forget the grey transponder key for the minute] is get a second hand complete with conductive tracked membrane fob from America ebay, then transfer your existing 6 button EURO PCB into the 6 button panic fob complete with its conductive tracked membrane and you have a working and programmable 6 button FOB. If you take apart your existing 5 button UK or EURO FOB you will find you have a complete 6 microswitched PCB with only 5 'traced' conductive tracked membrane. Programming is here.
The '6 conductive tracked membrane' I mentioned along with the corresponding rubber buttons can be seen here. The membrane on its own is here. Here's a different shaped one for a Jeep. All Chrysler remotes 2/3/4/5/6 Button FCC ID:OHT692427AA work on 315mhz. Other 'panic button' related FOBS are here.
NOTE : SomeChinese sites calls it a plastic sheet, you can see the conductive tracking between the microswitch nodes.
- if the cars brain must be programmed with a country code - and it has !
- then the 'disallowed' customer preference can not be re-programmed from the FOB
- so telling the alarm to 'bleep' or seatbelt to 'chime' is only allowed if its allowable under the country code
- the country code can be re-set to any on of the 11 [I think] anytime, but you need a capable diagnostic scanner to do that
Take for one example the 'beep on lock & unlock', this used to be a standard default in the UK and 99.9% of vehicles had it. At some point in the distant past the Euro government invented a law banning alarm beeps [noise pollution] on activation and de activation of the alarm feature on European imported vehicles, my understanding of the current laws is that the arm and disarm indication beeps is strictly forbidden in all EU countries.
What you would need to do is find out which countries did [for your car build year software version] allow 'beep on lock & unlock' and change the country code to that country, so for example if the US did allow 'beep on lock & unlock' you would use a capable scanner to change the country code to US then change the US miles to kilometres on the overhead display preferences. Your first question is - is it really worth all that trouble. Most indi garages here will do this change country protocol for £30UKP, ask your local indi's what they charge, tell them first its in the BCM section of the scanner, then under customer preferences.
_______________
The IOD
_______________
There are IOD 7 functions that are 'live' when you think your car and battery are asleep, they pull a combined 0.025 ampere draw. I used a Maplins cheepo solar panel which cost me £15 at the time, and I have never been unable to start the car since.
IGNITION-OFF DRAW TEST - reproduced from the workshop manual - NOTE - My Bold.
The term Ignition-Off Draw (IOD) identifies a normal condition where power is being drained from the battery with the ignition switch in the Off position. A normal vehicle electrical system will draw from fifteen to twenty five milliamperes (0.015 to 0.025 ampere) with the ignition switch in the Off position, and all non-ignition controlled circuits in proper working order. Up to twenty-five milliamperes are needed to enable the memory functions for the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), digital clock, electronically tuned radio, and other modules which may vary with the vehicle equipment. A vehicle that has not been operated for approximately twenty one days, may discharge the battery to an inadequate level. When a vehicle will not be used for twenty one days or more (stored), remove the IOD fuse from the Integrated Power Module (IPM). This will reduce battery discharging. Excessive IOD can be caused by:
• Electrical items left on.
• Faulty or improperly adjusted switches.
• Faulty or shorted electronic modules and components.
• An internally shorted generator.
• Intermittent shorts in the wiring
NOTE : The IOD fuse [14] shown by Andy has a ledge built in by Chrysler design, such that it doesn't need to be fully pulled but rather can sit on the ledge and easily re-inserted
Best of luck my friends. Hope this helps your understanding.
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