Clicking/humming sound while coasting 2008 T&C
Hi. New to the forums here and Im having a problem I cant seem to find a solution to anywhere online.
What is happening is that while accelerating all is well. I remove my foot from the accelerator and this clicking/humming noise occurs immediately. The second I so much as put the tiniest pressure back on the gas petal, the noise goes away.
When it first started, it was a very faint noise. Sort of like a baseball card in bicycle spokes. You really had to listen to hear it, and it has gotten much louder over time.
I cant tell where exactly the sound is coming from. It sounds like behind the driver side dashboard. I roll the windows down and you cannot hear it from outside. Driving in the fast lane on the freeway oftentimes people can hear the echo of their vehicle coming off the median barriers, I hear no noise. I only hear it from inside.
I dont think it has anything to do with CV joint or bearings or anything like that, as there is NO feedback whatsoever on the steering wheel or petals, no increase in sound while turning.
I also tried to check if the sound still occurs when I shift to Neutral. The sound still occurs. I have not tried it in reverse though.
Also, no check engine light coming on either. It still runs great. It shifts through the transmission gears just fine. Engine is quiet. Just the dang noise driving me crazy. Any insight would be great. Thanks.
What is happening is that while accelerating all is well. I remove my foot from the accelerator and this clicking/humming noise occurs immediately. The second I so much as put the tiniest pressure back on the gas petal, the noise goes away.
When it first started, it was a very faint noise. Sort of like a baseball card in bicycle spokes. You really had to listen to hear it, and it has gotten much louder over time.
I cant tell where exactly the sound is coming from. It sounds like behind the driver side dashboard. I roll the windows down and you cannot hear it from outside. Driving in the fast lane on the freeway oftentimes people can hear the echo of their vehicle coming off the median barriers, I hear no noise. I only hear it from inside.
I dont think it has anything to do with CV joint or bearings or anything like that, as there is NO feedback whatsoever on the steering wheel or petals, no increase in sound while turning.
I also tried to check if the sound still occurs when I shift to Neutral. The sound still occurs. I have not tried it in reverse though.
Also, no check engine light coming on either. It still runs great. It shifts through the transmission gears just fine. Engine is quiet. Just the dang noise driving me crazy. Any insight would be great. Thanks.
Hi doughy,
Is your T&C equipped with either a 3.3L or 3.8L engine? I found a Technical Service Bulletin that is intended to address a rattle sound coming from the exhaust. Might that be the case? I’ve provided more information below.
TSB NUMBER: 11-005-11 REV. A
GROUP: Exhaust System
DATE: November 12, 2011
SUBJECT: Rattle Sound At Idle Or Drone/Vibration Between 60 And 65 MPH (96 And 104 KPH)
OVERVIEW: This bulletin involves diagnosing the condition and only if necessary making adjustments to the exhaust system or installing a right halfshaft as required.
MODELS:
2008 - 2010 RT Dodge Grand Caravan/Chrysler Town & Country
NOTE: This bulletin applies to vehicles equipped with the 3.3L or 3.8L engine (Sales Code EGV or EGL).
SYMPTOM/CONDITION: Vehicles may exhibit a drone sound on 3.3L engines that may be present when the vehicle is driven between 60 & 65 MPH (96 & 104 KPH) (steady state driving) and is more pronounced while driving up a slight grade. A rattle sound may also be noticed at all RPM ranges, idle or driving.
Is your T&C equipped with either a 3.3L or 3.8L engine? I found a Technical Service Bulletin that is intended to address a rattle sound coming from the exhaust. Might that be the case? I’ve provided more information below.
TSB NUMBER: 11-005-11 REV. A
GROUP: Exhaust System
DATE: November 12, 2011
SUBJECT: Rattle Sound At Idle Or Drone/Vibration Between 60 And 65 MPH (96 And 104 KPH)
OVERVIEW: This bulletin involves diagnosing the condition and only if necessary making adjustments to the exhaust system or installing a right halfshaft as required.
MODELS:
2008 - 2010 RT Dodge Grand Caravan/Chrysler Town & Country
NOTE: This bulletin applies to vehicles equipped with the 3.3L or 3.8L engine (Sales Code EGV or EGL).
SYMPTOM/CONDITION: Vehicles may exhibit a drone sound on 3.3L engines that may be present when the vehicle is driven between 60 & 65 MPH (96 & 104 KPH) (steady state driving) and is more pronounced while driving up a slight grade. A rattle sound may also be noticed at all RPM ranges, idle or driving.
The noise is coming from the front of the vehicle on the driver's side. I had one of my mechanic friends take a peek and test drive it. He thinks it may be a sticky caliper but the clicking noise baffles him. The noise stops when I brake hard. He just peeked at it at my place, not in a shop. Still no trouble codes. Noise still goes away when applying the slightest pressure on the gas. The noise occurs at any speed.
I'd still pay attention to the FWD cv joint on the side where the noise is coming from. It could be a sign of "just starting" to wear out. If it is possible to pull back the corrugated gaitor a little and squirt a load of graphite grease in there, that may show it up at minimal cost and time. If that be the culprit you then have time to order a pair and fit at your leisure. You'll also need to look at the inboard arrangements too as shafts are very good at conducting noise from one end to the other.
However...these noises can be the very devil to track down! And irritating to boot.
Tip -- If you have to cut off the jubilee-type clip from the joint's gaitor to get inside at the grease, a power zip tie makes a good subs. if you use pliers to tighten it with a good pull.
Leedsman.
However...these noises can be the very devil to track down! And irritating to boot.
Tip -- If you have to cut off the jubilee-type clip from the joint's gaitor to get inside at the grease, a power zip tie makes a good subs. if you use pliers to tighten it with a good pull.
Leedsman.
Last edited by Leedsman; Jul 22, 2015 at 01:38 PM.
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