cold start/warm start issues
#1
cold start/warm start issues
Hi folks,
2005 2.8CRD 120,000miles on the clock here.
Now the cold weather has come back I'm having a few start problems, let me list when I have problems:
First thing, first start (cold weather less than 5oC typically): Will never start at first turnover, starter motor firing and engine will catch (so I release key to stop energising starter motor) and then die immediately.
Second turn it'll start, give a puff of smoke and run fine, no hesitation, stutter, etc.
Driving is perfectly fine, no stutter, hesitation or issues at all when driving (short or long journeys)
Stopping to get fuel (so engine hot, temp gauge halfway) engine will not start easily, starter motor turning over and engine sounds like it catches but dies immediately, will need a little blip a couple of times to accelerator to get it to catch and keep running. Again afterwards no issues, no splutter or hesitation.
I changed the glow plugs, so those are fine for cold start (tested OK), I don't have any other issues with stalling, hesitation or similar, just these small startup issues.
I'm thinking one of a couple of things, so would appreciate a second opinion, and thoughts on simple/first steps testing:
fuel pump struggling - would this happen all the time, or does starting just push it too far? - I've never found the 'prime' bulb in the engine bay, is it definitely on this model, anyone got any pics to help me locate?
Leaking injector return valve? - So fuel leaking back during long sitting times, so initial start tricky due to fuel starvation
Faulty injectors - how to test easily?
Or any others, thanks for the help in advance folks.
2005 2.8CRD 120,000miles on the clock here.
Now the cold weather has come back I'm having a few start problems, let me list when I have problems:
First thing, first start (cold weather less than 5oC typically): Will never start at first turnover, starter motor firing and engine will catch (so I release key to stop energising starter motor) and then die immediately.
Second turn it'll start, give a puff of smoke and run fine, no hesitation, stutter, etc.
Driving is perfectly fine, no stutter, hesitation or issues at all when driving (short or long journeys)
Stopping to get fuel (so engine hot, temp gauge halfway) engine will not start easily, starter motor turning over and engine sounds like it catches but dies immediately, will need a little blip a couple of times to accelerator to get it to catch and keep running. Again afterwards no issues, no splutter or hesitation.
I changed the glow plugs, so those are fine for cold start (tested OK), I don't have any other issues with stalling, hesitation or similar, just these small startup issues.
I'm thinking one of a couple of things, so would appreciate a second opinion, and thoughts on simple/first steps testing:
fuel pump struggling - would this happen all the time, or does starting just push it too far? - I've never found the 'prime' bulb in the engine bay, is it definitely on this model, anyone got any pics to help me locate?
Leaking injector return valve? - So fuel leaking back during long sitting times, so initial start tricky due to fuel starvation
Faulty injectors - how to test easily?
Or any others, thanks for the help in advance folks.
Last edited by andyb2000; 11-11-2016 at 06:56 AM.
#2
A pal of mine who used to work at a garage chain suggested fuel filter, and since it's not something I've changed since I bought the car, sounds a reasonable place to start, the more I replace the happier I am, peace of mind that I've done the job and know it's done (right?!)
Just to make a note, mine is 2.8CRD 2005, and it does NOT have the front screw on filter, it's got the rear filter just in front of the rear axle.
I'm guessing to change the filter, just disconnect the connector (water in fuel sensor) and use the large plastic nut in the middle of the base to unscrew it, drop it out and fit the replacement filter in?
Worth a go for 11 quid I reckon since it's never been done to my knowledge.
Just to make a note, mine is 2.8CRD 2005, and it does NOT have the front screw on filter, it's got the rear filter just in front of the rear axle.
I'm guessing to change the filter, just disconnect the connector (water in fuel sensor) and use the large plastic nut in the middle of the base to unscrew it, drop it out and fit the replacement filter in?
Worth a go for 11 quid I reckon since it's never been done to my knowledge.
#3
Yep, that looks much the same setup to the 2002 I had.
Just as you say for fitting.
When I'd done mines, I put it back on as tight as I dared (only had a shifter for the plastic nut at that time and didn't want to cause too much damage to it), but it ended up not being tight enough (drew air cutting out car sometimes) and had to remove it again to make sure I hadn't left the old o ring in, and retighten.
Just as you say for fitting.
When I'd done mines, I put it back on as tight as I dared (only had a shifter for the plastic nut at that time and didn't want to cause too much damage to it), but it ended up not being tight enough (drew air cutting out car sometimes) and had to remove it again to make sure I hadn't left the old o ring in, and retighten.
Last edited by Scotsman4th; 11-13-2016 at 09:24 AM.
#4
Opinion short version & long [maybe] version [edited in] [later] with pics & URL's.
I'm 05 LWB ltd and you are the same on a XS package. Yet these cars can be so schizophrenic on builds [WMI designation] in yours and everyone else's VIN number. I'm spin on in the engine bay with a hand operated in line hand pump in the LP side, the LP on my car is a function of the HP pump in the engine bay. Yours appears to be [pull not spin] bolt on [24mm] near the fuel tank rear where the LP function is provided by an electric 'tick tick' lift pump. A squeeze Lucas type hand primer is a cheap purchase and a reassuring check for LP to HP pressure. Changing yours should be easy, just make sure you oil the O ring and all fittings are tight and check for splits in the supply line & weeping joints allowing air to be vacuum[ed] in displacing fuel.
Yes air pockets in the LP fuel supply are a frequent symptom of hot & cold starting, proving the LP with a hand pump is an easy test, proving the LP without a hand pump will be listening for the tell tale electric tick tick NOT stopping.
__________________________________________
EDIT
My hand primer is a stumpy type - central[ish] between the engine front & the rad. There's a thread here going back a few years.
I'm 05 LWB ltd and you are the same on a XS package. Yet these cars can be so schizophrenic on builds [WMI designation] in yours and everyone else's VIN number. I'm spin on in the engine bay with a hand operated in line hand pump in the LP side, the LP on my car is a function of the HP pump in the engine bay. Yours appears to be [pull not spin] bolt on [24mm] near the fuel tank rear where the LP function is provided by an electric 'tick tick' lift pump. A squeeze Lucas type hand primer is a cheap purchase and a reassuring check for LP to HP pressure. Changing yours should be easy, just make sure you oil the O ring and all fittings are tight and check for splits in the supply line & weeping joints allowing air to be vacuum[ed] in displacing fuel.
Yes air pockets in the LP fuel supply are a frequent symptom of hot & cold starting, proving the LP with a hand pump is an easy test, proving the LP without a hand pump will be listening for the tell tale electric tick tick NOT stopping.
__________________________________________
EDIT
My hand primer is a stumpy type - central[ish] between the engine front & the rad. There's a thread here going back a few years.
Last edited by QinteQ; 11-13-2016 at 09:48 AM.
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