CRD 2.5 engine and transmission removal, overhaul
Hi all,
The turbo is leaking and so is the transmission side crankshaft seal on my 2002 Voyager CRD 2.5li 185k kms. In November I'll be dropping the engine and tranny. To do list is:
Is there anything else people would recommend looking at or replacing whilst the engine is out?
I noticed that the engine jumps in revs from 2000 to 2500 when under load and then drops immediately as the computer adjusts. I am suspecting that the cause could be faulty air/fuel sensor combined with oil from turbo feeding into cylinders. Could it be anything else?
Thanks in advance, kkc
The turbo is leaking and so is the transmission side crankshaft seal on my 2002 Voyager CRD 2.5li 185k kms. In November I'll be dropping the engine and tranny. To do list is:
- replace turbo with reconditioned one
- clean out the egr pipes and valve
- replace both crankshaft oil seals
- replace clutch
- remove and clean out radiators as engine is running hotter during summers than before
- check timing belt side pulleys, tensioner and belts - these were all replaced at about 130k kms
- replace sensors (already replaced camshaft and crankshaft timing/position sensors, high pressure fuel pump solenoid) as per:
- temperature sending units (I think there are two ... one for oil and one for coolant)
- air temperature sensor
- fuel rail pressure sensor
- apply rust proofing
- replace engine mount bushings
- tappits...???? these are hydraulic... am I right in understanding that there is nothing to adjust here? is it worth replacing the springs? is it worth opening this up to clean out any gunk?
Is there anything else people would recommend looking at or replacing whilst the engine is out?
I noticed that the engine jumps in revs from 2000 to 2500 when under load and then drops immediately as the computer adjusts. I am suspecting that the cause could be faulty air/fuel sensor combined with oil from turbo feeding into cylinders. Could it be anything else?
Thanks in advance, kkc
Thanks Goggs. Hadn't thought of the tappets, would make sense. Coolant pump and timing stuff was all changed at 130k kms, so 50k kms ag. I will check the timing belt and pulleys for wear and play. fuel injectors were done at about 150k kms, glow plugs and coolant thermo were all replaced at 130k kms.
btw.. hint for anyone reading this, if the coolant thermo fails, don't replace it (its a pain to do so), instead consider installing a standard thermo inline in one of the top coolant pipes. its a lot cheaper too.
btw.. hint for anyone reading this, if the coolant thermo fails, don't replace it (its a pain to do so), instead consider installing a standard thermo inline in one of the top coolant pipes. its a lot cheaper too.
Not a job for the faint hearted. There was a lot that had to be removed. Dropping the engine and gearbox required dropping the huge aluminium frame behind the engine and this one is calibrated to the chassis, so we decided to lift the engine and transmission out of the front.
Weird: the clutch pipe to the slave cylinder was completely dry although there was fluid in the reservoir. Tough: the high pressure nut into the steering pump is completely frozen. Hitting with a punch/hammer just damages it --- it's soft metal.
Hope it all works when its back in...!
Enjoy the pics...
Weird: the clutch pipe to the slave cylinder was completely dry although there was fluid in the reservoir. Tough: the high pressure nut into the steering pump is completely frozen. Hitting with a punch/hammer just damages it --- it's soft metal.
Hope it all works when its back in...!
Enjoy the pics...
Hello everyone. I am pleased to say ..."job done". Definitely a two man job. The refurbished engine is back in the car and the car has now completed about 1000km. The car runs cleaner and accelerates much faster than before. This is not an easy engine to work with even when it's on the bench. Interestingly, internals (cam area and big end areas) were very clean and sludge free. The exhaust manifold/turbo/egr area is very tight even when on the bench. I replaced the hydraulic lifters. I was tempted to open up the piston head, but wanted the car back on the road. I am planning to add an oil catch can - as I see that there is some oil blowby vapours making it into the turbo air intake. This should make the engine quieter - less detonation. Thereafter I may replace the maf sensor if the exhaust still smells too rich. And that's it. It was fun, but parts are expensive.
Finally thanks for letting us know how your job went kkc, job not quite the right word here more marathon but that's still not long enough.
Used to do this sort of thing but health been an issue for some time now, but I try by cleaning the tools.
Used to do this sort of thing but health been an issue for some time now, but I try by cleaning the tools.
hello everyone,
goggs... thanks for the kind words. my dad is in his 90's now, retired car mechanic, used to work on the city council buses. he still wishes he could get under a car and do some stuff. i enjoy working on cars, but finding time is always difficult. c'est la vie...!
anyway, i have uploaded about 200 pics. You can get them at http://www.own-initiative.com/files/...003_Photos.zip. I don't have time to sort out the pics, so I hope people don't mind some duplicates.
Regards, kkc.
goggs... thanks for the kind words. my dad is in his 90's now, retired car mechanic, used to work on the city council buses. he still wishes he could get under a car and do some stuff. i enjoy working on cars, but finding time is always difficult. c'est la vie...!
anyway, i have uploaded about 200 pics. You can get them at http://www.own-initiative.com/files/...003_Photos.zip. I don't have time to sort out the pics, so I hope people don't mind some duplicates.
Regards, kkc.
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