I am new to this forum and would like to get some feed back on the sliding door problem I am having with my 2006 T&C.[/align][/align]The door is very hard to open manually. I did a search for this problem and found a few posts about the sliding doors but none actually addressed how correct this problem. It does appear to be a common T&C problem as far back as 2001.[/align][/align]I havelearned that there is a clutch in the motor drive assembly. Does replacing the motor drive assemble correct the problem?[/align][/align]Before I take it back to the dealer for warranty repair on this problem I would like to know if you all have had the problem and how it was corrected.[/align][/align]Thanks.[/align][/align]Dan[/align]

 

just take it to the dealer u dont need to worry about nething u have 3year or 36k miles get them to repair it.

 

I understand your reply but I want to know what is causing the problem.

Will the dealer replace the motor drive unit to correct the problem.

I am one of those car guys that want to understand the problerm not just drop the car off at the dealer.

 

well it will really depend on what they find have them explane what hte prob was. I can tell u what they will do I am not there to repair the car myself or i would tell u what was the prob and what was done to fix it. I have seen motors I have seen latches I have seen door trax mess up the wire harness.

 

Thanks for the info.

Since the car only has 18k miles and the door works ok except for the heavy effort needed to open and close it manually, I thoughtyoumay recognize the problem.

It feels to me that the clutch in the drive unit is not disengaging and the extraeffort is the result of the force required to run back throught the speed reducer section of the drive unit. I have found out that this same conditions exists on a number of new 07 T&C driver side doors.

Sounds like maybe some defective motor drive units from Chrysler's vendor.

I will take it to the dealer, get it fixed,and not worry about it.

Dan

 

Same problem with my 06 last month. Dealer changed out the motor because of a bad clutch. Out of there in an hour.

 

Thanks Stretch

 

I had the same problem with my 2002 T&C out of warranty. The clutch is electrically engaged by having a metal disk attracted to a coil with a metal edge. The coil is sealed with a rubber like substance which swells due to oil. The swelling causes the metal disk to bind in manual operation. I fixed mine by shaving thr rubber down to the level of the metal edge on the coil. Now works just fine.

 

with all due respect, just saying take it to the dealer helps no one on this forum. hopefully the purpose here is to learn from one another while understanding that no advice on here is guaranteed, just what we've all experienced. I can say from my experience at our "5 star" dealership, it's better to have a clue about what's going on or you run a big risk of being hosed.

As for the door problem, the most common problem with the doors sliding hard appears to be the motors. I just replaced both of mine and resulted in a huge difference in the decreased effort required to open and close. Unfortunately, the doors still just "pop and stop" so after a visit to the dealer to see about resetting the BCM codes for the doors (which according to the tech did not fix the problem) it looks like new latches are in store for me. BTW, the tech told me the driver's side door motor appeared to need replacing due to the slight increased effort needed to open and close compared to the passenger side. I told himboth motors were replacedonly two weeksago and that the door opened and closed with much less effort than the one on the showroom floor!! When I asked him what the codes were to lead him to that conclusion, he said he didn't write them down. hmmm....

R Martin
Chattanooga, TN
2001 T&C Limited 128K (worst repair history of any car I've ever owned)

 

Well all i can say is if this forum is only for helping people understand how things work then I dont need to be here. When i say take it to the dealer i mean just that if its under warranty then u dont need to mess with it such as replacing nething unless its maintance,why do i say that because if things are tinkers with out of factory spec or installed wrong then u the cust will be eating the charge to have it fixed. If its out of warranty then that where i come into play I will guide and help with my 11 year experence with chrysler,jeep and dodge. Yes i also understand that u want to know whats goin on b4 u pay some money to have something fixed and not even know if that will be the prob or not. I deal with that everyday fixing the part changers messups. The tsbs are free to any one who wants to look at them but be aware that if u go into a dealer and demand that a tsb be performed on your car it may not even be for that car u have based on a vin number or build date. Some one has to pay the dealer and tech that worked on the car and if they are not with in the build date or vin the dealer will get it kicked back from chryler and well they eat the cost. Just like any busness u dont want that to heppen so there is a system inplace via the tech looking at the car and going from there. But on the other hand I know there are dumb asses that will just put on the first thing they think of and go from there. As for your door issue yeah u wil more then likely need a door latch seen them done them dont need to reset anything once u have a new one installed just run the door open and closed 5 times so the hall effect sensor counts the teeth and makes a smooth open and close. For the people that want to know indepth on how things work I can help them out with that as well.
Hey RSMARTIN I live in ATL nice to meet u next state neighbor =)
Let me know if u need some help.