Electrical fault
 

Hi Guys/Girls
My GV 2.8td is throwing a wobbly. The power seat has stopped working and the alarm keeps going off. A few days ago the power seat stopped working and it kept loosing the radio presets which it has in the past. So I wiggled the fuse and it worked OK, as in the past. But now its stopped and I changing the fuse but still not working, and the alarm keeps going off randomly.
Any help appreciated.
Bee

Check out my thread on 07 30 14 about the IPM fuse box which has a problem regarding dirty connections due to position. Theres a picture of it there. You said by wiggling the fuse you got it to work so look there. But wait for QinteQ, Leadsman or tfb to come on with more detailed info.

sorry if im a bit thick but I can not find your post. 07 30 14 I don't know what that means.

July 30th, 2014.

https://www.chryslerforum.com/forum/...x-check-22636/

thank you
 

Hi and thanks for the info. I took the battery off and undid the clip on the side of the fuse box and it lifted to the side exposing the connectors I managed to clean one or two before I ran out on contact cleaner. so off to maplins tomorrow to get some more. On the plus side my seat works now.:)

Always the first to eliminate is BUS problems, variously pulling the (1) IOD (2) pulling the NEG terminal or (3) un-clipping the fusebox will all achieve exactly the same outcome that of re-setting the BUS. That box top / lid comes off and as you know, and all the fuses are numbered in the lid, the bottom of the IPM fusebox is connected to the loom at the bottom, that too easily comes apart exposing the IPM / loom connects with a plastic clip on the side near the wing. You can see here how what Bee calls """exposing the connectors"" exposes an incredibly difficult to keep clean series of interconnected power boards and corresponding dirt, verdigris, and gunge. It should be noted that before you unclipped the IPM you should really have already pulled the NEG first.

Customer selectable settings such as gallons UK / US, seat, radio presets, mirror presets, one door / all door unlock and central FOB lock / unlock inhibits can be notoriously difficult to 'clear' even with the above (1)(2)(3) sequences. There seems to be an issue with the software being unable to clear 'embedded legacy' codes, even the 'desperation' trick of clamping the POS & NEG together to empty the capacitor held reserve power seems not to work. There is however a setting in tfb's code reader [BCM / reset customer preferences] that will allow a Chrysler over-ride clearing of customer legacy codes - I know of no other way of clearing this type of legacy code issue other than a decent code reader.

http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/je...9_814f7c1e.gif

Thanks for the help.:)

Ah, so, Bee, has this cleaning of the connections on bottom of your IPM module solved all your problems, Seat, Radio and Alarm. Is everything back to normal now. Not sure who came up with this constantly on here, but is this the proof of the Pudding..

Yes all good with the problems I listed. I gave it a good clean with the maplin contact cleaner and some cotton buds you should see the crap and corrosion under there, and its all good. I've now ordered a new fuel filter housing because its giving me a code p1130. hopefully that will cure my problem with the motor.
thanks all for the help.
Bee:D

Well done.

Leedsman.

Quick potted history:

- parked up about a week
- of and on -5 °C never got over freezing point, car never used
- started first time as usual - 800CCA / 75ah - Bosch

- ran for 5 minutes then stopped

Got a M8 round with a two battery Land Cruiser, 8 minutes at 2000RPM from him into my battery, it spun over like an airplane prop, no start - Aborted to the pub.

Next day ditto, it wouldn't start, pulled an injector pipe and it dribbled like a baby. Made good the injector and felt around for a hand primer, found it [after removing the plastic engine cover] flat as a *art, hand pumped and primed till the bubble was hard and the pipe was pressured. It turned over and started.

- ran for 5 minutes then stopped

Clearly the hand priming could pull all the way and fill the filter but the cars 12-17psi low pressure pump could not. Still not sure I've sorted it but the fact is a hand prime will do it so I figure [only a guess] the slack fuel filter was drawing in air allowing the fuel run back once the tension was off it. Took it for a 20 minute each way ride to here with my mate in tow in case I needed another pump~n~jump and it ran like a well tuned sports car. So I've been on a garage ramp and had a look all the way from tank to engine, no visual or otherwise obvious problems, didn't check the fuel heater, because the plastic cover was warm to the touch so I assumed working ok.

If that proves to be the case and its sorted fine, I'm happy. If not I'll 'chonk' about 4 inches out of the metal [coated] fuel line and stick an in-line one way filter, that'll stop the bugger running back and give me the added benefit of a 'visual' on fuel. Even without the - °C cold weather I'll know tomorrow if the fuel has 'run backwards'. Thanks for your attention on this joker2cv, I'm still open to ideas and suggestions from you or anyone else.

Update, and a salutary lesson. Went outside today, fired first time, so "a slack fuel filter was drawing in air" and allowing the fuel to run back was the cause. The lesson .. .. check the obvious first and the spin on fuel filter is the obvious.

So my Alarm going off sporadically, middle of night waking up the woodlands around, Looks like IPM, good, that's my answer and taken note.
all in all, true showing of what Corrosion on IPM terminals can do.