Electrical, Mechanical and other issues
#1
10-07-2016, 12:18 PM
Electrical, Mechanical and other issues
Chrysler Grand Voyager 2.8 CRD Diesel
Please help as this car has made my head spin
1. Driver Power Seat stopped responding and after a month or so all of a sudden started working fine. Its stopped then again
2. Driver Side Power Window works and stops responding intermittent
3. Passenger Side Sliding Doors stopped working on remote and in car button. Its completely manual now. When the button is pressed... I hear a brief humming sound
4. Breaklight stopped working... changed the bulbs still no sign...
5. Got few error codes ... discovered with key dance e.g.. P0340 - P0514 - P1130 - P0203 - P0204
6. Steering is getting heavier day by day
7. MPG got worse ever... 14MPG ... it has never been that bad
8. I hear a strange loud metal cranking sound when the car moves off from stationary position and it feels like something is holding the car back although I am heavy on the gas. After a couple seconds car eases and speeds up... like someone was pulling it back and suddenly released.
9. Cold Start Issues yes!!!!.... so far fine... just takes extra turns before starting... seems like as its getting colder... it would give a lot pain
I get the engine oil changed very often... I don't know any Chrysler Specialist in EAST LONDON area...
The BATTERY is brilliant.. it is RED TOP ..
Please help and let me know if there is anything I could do any DIY to improve it... or suggest any good mechanic...
MUCH APPRECIATED
Please help as this car has made my head spin
1. Driver Power Seat stopped responding and after a month or so all of a sudden started working fine. Its stopped then again
2. Driver Side Power Window works and stops responding intermittent
3. Passenger Side Sliding Doors stopped working on remote and in car button. Its completely manual now. When the button is pressed... I hear a brief humming sound
4. Breaklight stopped working... changed the bulbs still no sign...
5. Got few error codes ... discovered with key dance e.g.. P0340 - P0514 - P1130 - P0203 - P0204
6. Steering is getting heavier day by day
7. MPG got worse ever... 14MPG ... it has never been that bad
8. I hear a strange loud metal cranking sound when the car moves off from stationary position and it feels like something is holding the car back although I am heavy on the gas. After a couple seconds car eases and speeds up... like someone was pulling it back and suddenly released.
9. Cold Start Issues yes!!!!.... so far fine... just takes extra turns before starting... seems like as its getting colder... it would give a lot pain
I get the engine oil changed very often... I don't know any Chrysler Specialist in EAST LONDON area...
The BATTERY is brilliant.. it is RED TOP ..
Please help and let me know if there is anything I could do any DIY to improve it... or suggest any good mechanic...
MUCH APPRECIATED
#2
10-09-2016, 10:58 AM
Hi there,
There are a few faults you've got at the same time here, so split them out into the different jobs. Also I don't believe you need a Chrysler specialist. Stick to specific job requests to your garage, if you take it in with all these they'll just not want to know as it's too much to think about!
There are two here I'd say you MUST look into first. That's the mechanical issues relating to the P codes and the metal cranking sound.
The metal cranking sounds like the brakes are binding, can you narrow down where the noise comes from? Try to get somebody else to move the car slowly and walk round it listening for the noise. I'm going to guess it comes from the rear wheels and it's most likely the rear brake drums seizing up, this won't be ideal as they'll be wearing your pads out, etc.
The fault codes I think will help pinpoint the issue with your MPG and mechanical problems:
P0340 Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor Circuit
P0514 battery temperature sensor temp malfunction (Nothing to worry about, can be ignored pretty much unless you get flat batteries)
P1130 Fuel Rail Pressure Malfunction Small Leakage Detected
P0203 Injector 3 Control Circuit
P0204 Injector 4 Control Circuit
So the common part here is the injectors, either you have a fault in the wiring or the injectors are going bad and throwing differend codes. Based on cold start problems, bad MPG, etc, I'd say you need the injectors checking. You didn't say the mileage, I'm going to guess over 100k and if so then injectors would be a good bet needing doing with the problems you're having.
The electrical problems are quite common, search the forums they have been answered time and time again, but as a quick guide:
Driver power seat, the connectors underneath get corroded and can rattle around, unplug them and plug them back in, see if it solves it. If not, look for damaged wires and connectors under the seat.
Power windows, do they stop going down or only going up? If only going up then it's the safety stop mechanism triggering and stopping the motor. If it's both directions, then it's probably the motor struggling as it's getting old. When it stops working try to help the window move in the direction you're pressing with your hand. If it starts to move then it's the motor wearing out. If it's completely non-responsive then it's more likely electrical, again take the door panel off and take a look, connectors are your first place to start looking.
Passenger side sliding door, damaged track/wiring will be the fault here, again many forum posts, but basically the plastic caterpillar chain holds the wires and over time they become damaged. Open them up and repair the damaged wire.
Break-light, this one is a little odd. Do they all not work? If so then it's the switch on the brake pedal that's failed and is simple to replace. If it's just one not working then it's more likely the wiring to that bulb holder that's been damaged, perhaps when previously they've been replaced and either jammed between the bodywork or the wiring has been left to dangle and damaged the wire. This can be tricky as it's determining where the break is and replacing that section of wire.
Hopefully there are a few things there to get you started. Break down the jobs and see how you get on. Post back on what you try and what you find and we'll help out more :-)
Good luck and don't panic, you'll get there with it! (Oh and post back with vehicle age, number of miles, etc)
There are a few faults you've got at the same time here, so split them out into the different jobs. Also I don't believe you need a Chrysler specialist. Stick to specific job requests to your garage, if you take it in with all these they'll just not want to know as it's too much to think about!
There are two here I'd say you MUST look into first. That's the mechanical issues relating to the P codes and the metal cranking sound.
The metal cranking sounds like the brakes are binding, can you narrow down where the noise comes from? Try to get somebody else to move the car slowly and walk round it listening for the noise. I'm going to guess it comes from the rear wheels and it's most likely the rear brake drums seizing up, this won't be ideal as they'll be wearing your pads out, etc.
The fault codes I think will help pinpoint the issue with your MPG and mechanical problems:
P0340 Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor Circuit
P0514 battery temperature sensor temp malfunction (Nothing to worry about, can be ignored pretty much unless you get flat batteries)
P1130 Fuel Rail Pressure Malfunction Small Leakage Detected
P0203 Injector 3 Control Circuit
P0204 Injector 4 Control Circuit
So the common part here is the injectors, either you have a fault in the wiring or the injectors are going bad and throwing differend codes. Based on cold start problems, bad MPG, etc, I'd say you need the injectors checking. You didn't say the mileage, I'm going to guess over 100k and if so then injectors would be a good bet needing doing with the problems you're having.
The electrical problems are quite common, search the forums they have been answered time and time again, but as a quick guide:
Driver power seat, the connectors underneath get corroded and can rattle around, unplug them and plug them back in, see if it solves it. If not, look for damaged wires and connectors under the seat.
Power windows, do they stop going down or only going up? If only going up then it's the safety stop mechanism triggering and stopping the motor. If it's both directions, then it's probably the motor struggling as it's getting old. When it stops working try to help the window move in the direction you're pressing with your hand. If it starts to move then it's the motor wearing out. If it's completely non-responsive then it's more likely electrical, again take the door panel off and take a look, connectors are your first place to start looking.
Passenger side sliding door, damaged track/wiring will be the fault here, again many forum posts, but basically the plastic caterpillar chain holds the wires and over time they become damaged. Open them up and repair the damaged wire.
Break-light, this one is a little odd. Do they all not work? If so then it's the switch on the brake pedal that's failed and is simple to replace. If it's just one not working then it's more likely the wiring to that bulb holder that's been damaged, perhaps when previously they've been replaced and either jammed between the bodywork or the wiring has been left to dangle and damaged the wire. This can be tricky as it's determining where the break is and replacing that section of wire.
Hopefully there are a few things there to get you started. Break down the jobs and see how you get on. Post back on what you try and what you find and we'll help out more :-)
Good luck and don't panic, you'll get there with it! (Oh and post back with vehicle age, number of miles, etc)
#3
10-10-2016, 07:10 AM
Hi there,
There are a few faults you've got at the same time here, so split them out into the different jobs. Also I don't believe you need a Chrysler specialist. Stick to specific job requests to your garage, if you take it in with all these they'll just not want to know as it's too much to think about!
There are two here I'd say you MUST look into first. That's the mechanical issues relating to the P codes and the metal cranking sound.
The metal cranking sounds like the brakes are binding, can you narrow down where the noise comes from? Try to get somebody else to move the car slowly and walk round it listening for the noise. I'm going to guess it comes from the rear wheels and it's most likely the rear brake drums seizing up, this won't be ideal as they'll be wearing your pads out, etc.
The fault codes I think will help pinpoint the issue with your MPG and mechanical problems:
P0340 Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor Circuit
P0514 battery temperature sensor temp malfunction (Nothing to worry about, can be ignored pretty much unless you get flat batteries)
P1130 Fuel Rail Pressure Malfunction Small Leakage Detected
P0203 Injector 3 Control Circuit
P0204 Injector 4 Control Circuit
So the common part here is the injectors, either you have a fault in the wiring or the injectors are going bad and throwing differend codes. Based on cold start problems, bad MPG, etc, I'd say you need the injectors checking. You didn't say the mileage, I'm going to guess over 100k and if so then injectors would be a good bet needing doing with the problems you're having.
The electrical problems are quite common, search the forums they have been answered time and time again, but as a quick guide:
Driver power seat, the connectors underneath get corroded and can rattle around, unplug them and plug them back in, see if it solves it. If not, look for damaged wires and connectors under the seat.
Power windows, do they stop going down or only going up? If only going up then it's the safety stop mechanism triggering and stopping the motor. If it's both directions, then it's probably the motor struggling as it's getting old. When it stops working try to help the window move in the direction you're pressing with your hand. If it starts to move then it's the motor wearing out. If it's completely non-responsive then it's more likely electrical, again take the door panel off and take a look, connectors are your first place to start looking.
Passenger side sliding door, damaged track/wiring will be the fault here, again many forum posts, but basically the plastic caterpillar chain holds the wires and over time they become damaged. Open them up and repair the damaged wire.
Break-light, this one is a little odd. Do they all not work? If so then it's the switch on the brake pedal that's failed and is simple to replace. If it's just one not working then it's more likely the wiring to that bulb holder that's been damaged, perhaps when previously they've been replaced and either jammed between the bodywork or the wiring has been left to dangle and damaged the wire. This can be tricky as it's determining where the break is and replacing that section of wire.
Hopefully there are a few things there to get you started. Break down the jobs and see how you get on. Post back on what you try and what you find and we'll help out more :-)
Good luck and don't panic, you'll get there with it! (Oh and post back with vehicle age, number of miles, etc)
There are a few faults you've got at the same time here, so split them out into the different jobs. Also I don't believe you need a Chrysler specialist. Stick to specific job requests to your garage, if you take it in with all these they'll just not want to know as it's too much to think about!
There are two here I'd say you MUST look into first. That's the mechanical issues relating to the P codes and the metal cranking sound.
The metal cranking sounds like the brakes are binding, can you narrow down where the noise comes from? Try to get somebody else to move the car slowly and walk round it listening for the noise. I'm going to guess it comes from the rear wheels and it's most likely the rear brake drums seizing up, this won't be ideal as they'll be wearing your pads out, etc.
The fault codes I think will help pinpoint the issue with your MPG and mechanical problems:
P0340 Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor Circuit
P0514 battery temperature sensor temp malfunction (Nothing to worry about, can be ignored pretty much unless you get flat batteries)
P1130 Fuel Rail Pressure Malfunction Small Leakage Detected
P0203 Injector 3 Control Circuit
P0204 Injector 4 Control Circuit
So the common part here is the injectors, either you have a fault in the wiring or the injectors are going bad and throwing differend codes. Based on cold start problems, bad MPG, etc, I'd say you need the injectors checking. You didn't say the mileage, I'm going to guess over 100k and if so then injectors would be a good bet needing doing with the problems you're having.
The electrical problems are quite common, search the forums they have been answered time and time again, but as a quick guide:
Driver power seat, the connectors underneath get corroded and can rattle around, unplug them and plug them back in, see if it solves it. If not, look for damaged wires and connectors under the seat.
Power windows, do they stop going down or only going up? If only going up then it's the safety stop mechanism triggering and stopping the motor. If it's both directions, then it's probably the motor struggling as it's getting old. When it stops working try to help the window move in the direction you're pressing with your hand. If it starts to move then it's the motor wearing out. If it's completely non-responsive then it's more likely electrical, again take the door panel off and take a look, connectors are your first place to start looking.
Passenger side sliding door, damaged track/wiring will be the fault here, again many forum posts, but basically the plastic caterpillar chain holds the wires and over time they become damaged. Open them up and repair the damaged wire.
Break-light, this one is a little odd. Do they all not work? If so then it's the switch on the brake pedal that's failed and is simple to replace. If it's just one not working then it's more likely the wiring to that bulb holder that's been damaged, perhaps when previously they've been replaced and either jammed between the bodywork or the wiring has been left to dangle and damaged the wire. This can be tricky as it's determining where the break is and replacing that section of wire.
Hopefully there are a few things there to get you started. Break down the jobs and see how you get on. Post back on what you try and what you find and we'll help out more :-)
Good luck and don't panic, you'll get there with it! (Oh and post back with vehicle age, number of miles, etc)
hi
Very helpful reply
thanks so much for that
I will post feedback as I work on it.
Oh Yes! its 2004 model... 2.8 CRD automatic diesel
140K on speedometer
Thanks so much again
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