Chrysler put the field control module into the vehicle computer in 1987. You can get an ERCK kit as a bypass, see here [3 right - top line] for ideas.

 

Cheers QinteQ

Is the FCM you talk about the same thing as the Voltage Regulator?

 

aha.... well.. so no easy to replace Rectifier/Regulator module in the Voyager .
I am used to maintain my 1985 Yamaha Vmax and my 1986 Mercedes Benz 190E and I feel like I am getting into a whole new ballgame with this "high tech" Voyager

 

Yes its just an external one. Pre-set [but adjustable] to 14.5 volts. Its just an option for anyone suffering who has had the alternator tested as good and wanting to avoid main stealer costs on re-programming the [PCM] puter.

There are other influences the IPM for example. When you switch on the engine the voltage is sent from the PCM or IPM [if yours is TIPM] to the alternator, the alternator of course is powered by the serpentine, the amount of DC produced is controlled by the EVR in the PCM. A battery temp sensor under the battery also comes into play, then the battery temp & monitored line voltage is used by the PCM where as Leedsman says it regulates alternator output [13.5 - 14.7 volts higher at cold temperatures and is gradually reduced as the calculated battery temperature increases - see his thread about xmas 2013 on the subjext] with pre-set parameters. Our GV's like all OBD based systems should throw a DTC code and store it in memory. The problem is many code readers do a lousey job reading Chrysler's.

My point[s] and I have two of them are, (1) in the above is that there are many influences, not all of them expensive and anyone should get someone to 'read' for stored codes before spending a lot of money, and (2) this is not my area of knowledge - Leedsman or tfb would be much better at understanding and diagnosis - tfb has a reader - Leedsman - I've no idea.

 

UPDATE:

I got the alternator tested and it was only putting out 11.5volts..

So after getting a few prices for new alternators from various sources, I decided to give Alan's suggestion a try and got a price from Eurocarparts.

I rang our local branch in Inverness who gave me a healthy discount down to 230 from the 275 that their website was listing ..

 

If that's with a fully charged battery and the engine running it does look as if its fried and not continuity. If you stick a meter red in red and black in black on the battery with the engine running you should get 13.5 to 14.5 Volts DC, that will decrease the longer the engine stays running. If you then turn on a load by switching on every accessory in the vehicle, aircon, lights, heater fan full whack, wipers etc you should get a steady 13.5 to 14.5 Volts.

Best of luck M8.

 

The battery is dropping from 13.5 to about 9 after running for about 20 miles...

When you connect the meter to the running engine you can watch the meter reading drop consistently in a matter of seconds..��

 

Personally I've never had an alternator fail on me, says he knocking on his head, so I think you've been dead unlucky Merle. Let's hope this is the last of your problems for a good while.

 

UPDATE.....

Car just back from the garage after having had the alternator replaced and is fully operational again

Happy Chappie!!

Anybody know any company that buys old alternators for refurbishment? It looks like I just bought the new one outright and not on an exchange from Eurocarparts.

Also, if anyone needs a new Contitech alternator belt I have one brand new in the packet as the mechanic said the original onew was as good as new and that I should just get my money back on the new one.

 

What did they charge for fitting the alternator Merle?