Since I can rule out the battery, glowplugs and glowplugrelay now for bad starting in the freezing cold time for another lead.
The ANWB mechanic told me it could very wel be something wrong with fuel pressure..
So time for new thread

Symptoms:
Car runs perfect when started
Car starts perfect when warm/recently used
Glowplugs and relay are good (new)
Brandnew heavy duty battery (830 cranking power)

Car starts good when temperature is above 7 celsius
Car starts bad when temperature is below or around 0 celsius
Car impossible to start when temperature is below -5 celsius

So..
when it has something to do with the fuel pressure what can I test? What can get wrong with this CRD system?
Anyone got some insight in this?

 

Pump the bulb hard, that's your LP into the HP pump done - check it 1st

 

I have no idea what you're trying to tell me ..
Can you explain Bulb, LP and HP to me?

 

Assuming a 2.8

You have a problem you think is fuel in general and 1st start in the morning in particular. Before you get into the expensive and technical (HP) high pressure side take a look at the (LP) low pressure side. The low pressure side is tank, pipes,, filter, into the HP pump. These items are all essential if the car is to even start, after the car starts the high pressure pump pulls the fuel all the way from the tank and feeds the injectors.

A slack fuel filter doubled or bad 0 ring or its slack water trap [frequent problem] will allow leakback of fuel all the way back to the tank meaning you have no fuel ready in the HP pump when you turn the key. A dirty fuel filter, cracked plastic housing (favourite prob on Voyagers) etc are all part of the LP system.

You have a hand pump between the RAD and engine (metal button or rubber bulb) its just a quick and easy way of checking you have enough fuel ready for the HP pump to start the car when you turn the key.

If you push the bulb till its hard and the car does not start its not the LP side. Best of luck.

1+3

 

When I had my 2002, I had this issue as well every winter.
Don't know if I ever solved it, it was 2 or 3 years before I sorted the undercharging, which was masked by changing the battery every couple of winters too.

When you switch the ignition on, can you hear the lift pump operating? From the rear of the car?

If you can hear the lift pump, sit with the ignition on until it stops then try to start the car. I think this used to improve my chances.

 

Rear is generally the 2.4's I've never known the 2.4's to ever have an in engine compartment filter. However, confusingly, some 2.8's also have a rear near the tank electric pump & filter - I've always assumed this rear 2.8 arrangement is for non stow'n-go VIN number builds.

 

Ok! Thx, Thats useful info..
One more question: What is the RAD? (so i can try to locate the hand pump

btw its a 2002 2.5 CRD

 

Im gonna n check that

 

In that case a 2.5 would be electric pump at the rear not hand pump at the front. The electric pump will click click click for a few seconds till it pushes the diesel to the HP pump at which point the powerful HP side takes over. If you turn on the IGN without starting the car and walk to the rear you will hear it clicking, it should not click for more than 3 or 4 seconds, if it does you either have a problem between the electric pump and the HP pump or the electric pump itself is U/S.
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RAD is just short for 'radiator' my friend. The hand compression pump if you have one is more or less centre of the RAD about four inches down bracketed to the engine block you should see it easy, just look down from the top. You may need a torch.

 

I tried to pinpoint the clicking sound but when I turn the key (before starting) I hear no clicks but in stead a buzzing sound somewhere from the rear. originating somewhere behind the fuel tank I guess.
Can that be correct?