got tranny but still dont work
 

got the trans. got it in. now it works rev and first. shifts into 2nd and nothing stays there till ya turn off the key. then it will start in first. shift into 2nd nothing. any ideas? throws no codes!!!!

I have a lot of ideas that are the problem. first, how are you retrieving codes? are you accessing the trans computer or are you just trying to get trans codes out of the engine computer? What does your scanner show for trans data? what are the values of the input and output speed sensors.

what ever came out of the deal with the rebuilder that said you needed a case?

guys all pissy about it. and it does have a new case. and the only reason IO know that is there were 2 striped pan bolts and now they are all good.. I have a otc scanner. I was going through the obd2 plug but when asking for engine or trans I picked trans. is that right. I just got the otc and just figuring out how to use. I really got it because it reads obd1. so if you can let me know what I should look for that would be great...im not really into the transmissions to much more into engine. I mostly do the tranny swaps..
thanks

the rebuilder only changed two sensers. I think that they are the in out sensers. the one in back over reading the T/C and the two in front right above the pan are org...

HEHEHEHE, that guy replaced the case for 2 stripped pan bolts... I wouldn't even have that clown wash my car. I guess he never heard of this awsome invention Heli-coil. maybe because it's such a new item on the market (not). why did he change sensors (input, output on front of trans, crank sensor on the rear of the trans) without actually testing them. Cool you have a real scanner, so get into data stream and see what the input and output speed sensors are reading. I also guarantee, if you have a trans that does not shift, it will set a code (unless the TCM is not on like no power to it, but then your scanner wouldn't show it as a choice). the oct scanner should give you a menu to select CCD bus which contains trans, body, abs modules.

he never really said why he needed a new case. thats just how I know its a new case. the only sensers he changed were the two input and output sensers. he did not change the pndel, nss, or the one on the back.. I well let ya know what the in and output seners are reading

I'm wondering why you're not on the phone with the ace trans guy to solve this problem

codes 52 and 36 are showing. gear ratio and problem after first shift .....
rpm 745
turbine input 712
output 0 untill I move of course

as in my PM to you. he sent me a doa and offered this to me.. so now I owe him my life..... and turned in to a dick when I called him on it to rebuild it.. he does great work and two trans that I know of have over 20,000 miles in just under a year and still running great. needless to say I did find another rebuilder that I work with now

sounds like something in the trans is f/u'd. Now if I had it in my possession, I could make a much better assessment as to the problem

where you located in WI? I also asked the rebuilder and he said froms the sounds of it. it might be the computer in the trans...

the builder says 'computer IN the trans..." that would be a neat trick. You'd have the ONLY 41TE trans on the planet to have a computer in the trans.

Did the output speed sensor read? If the speedo worked on the test, the output is fine. explain the 1-2 shift and then what does it do for 2-3? does it try to shift then neutral and drop to 2nd or does it just make no attempt to go into 3rd?

I think hes trying to put in laymans terms. the black box on the side is what I was thinking he was talking about.
ok. put in reverse and back out of drive way perfect. put in d and take off fine. it goes to shift to seconed and just like puting in neutral. then stays there. put back in reverse and back home. fine. shut off motor and restart and you have reverse and first. put in drive and take off. fine trys to go into seconed and nothing.... ect ect

yes out put is working. have speedometer both forward and reverse...

found this... sounds like the same thing


http://www.trnw.net/fixdata-display....1.html&aname=3

well went back out and pluged in the scanner. should I relearn the computer again? also should I reset the (emcc)? it shows all the clutches and the pressures and they are all good. Im going to get it to F/U again and see if the pressures change. I wish I got a manual that told me the abbreviations to what the the scanner says. like 2-4 , od , ld.. lol

well after checking tranny again it has codes 36, 52... looked them up to find this.....

Super Important
If code 36 is present (fault immediately after shift) with one of these 50 series codes there is a internal
transmission problem!
UD/OD snap ring broken
OD clutch pack burnt up
Gear train failure
etc

that doesent sound good. so I guess I will be removing to send somewhere else to get a checkup.... since all the rebuild stuff is done I hope it will be a cheap fix....and why the hell did the color change on my post...LOL

Sorry you are having so many problems with this.. I hope you get it fixed soon. BTW.. is your OTC the 3498?

So you are saying it starts in first, shifts to 2nd then just quits moving in 2nd? I'm not clear on EXACTLY what is happening? I just rebuilt a 1996 that did the following: when cold, shifted perfect 1-4, when it got hot, it neutraled out and had no movement what so ever forward, but had strong reverse. the cause worn/failed seals on the underdrive and overdrive clutches. Rebuilt trans and all is good.

You can just unplug any of the sensors, tcm or relay and drive it stuck in 2nd and see what happens when the trans gets hot. if it quits moving or doesn't move in 2nd the it IS NOT the 'black box/ internal trans computer (incorrect terminology it is the SOLENOID PACK"

one thing for sure it is NOT any sensors causing your problem!!!!

If I had this trans, I would use pressure gauges to see what is happening along with my scanner and 20+ years/1000+ rebuilds of experience to fix it.

I'm actually getting tired of all the time I've spent with you so far trying to solve your problem I added up all the posts and time to read/reply and I'm into you for over 1hr. since the start of this. Don't get me wrong, I'm not angry at you, but I need to spend my time making money. So I'll let other experts on here work on solving your problem. Maybe one of them has a better idea than me. Never know, I might be going at my diagnosis all wrong. But all I can say is you for sure need someone with actual real experience to fix this once and for all. I'm certain that the repairs/diagnosis are beyond your means and tool availability. What may help you is to get the book. Utradrive student reference manual. I'm not going to spend the time hunting one down for you and I only have a couple copies left which I will not part with.

thanks... its the elite spx,otc scanner

I have the same exact problem you do but it's on a 1995 Chrysler Cirrus. Crank it up, put it in reverse, no problem. Put it in Drive, no problem but as soon as it shifts to 2nd, it's like it goes into Neutral and no forward gear will work. Shut the car off, crank it back up and you have 1st gear again. But as soon as it shifts to 2nd, it's like it goes to Neutral again.

Here's what I've done so far.....

I have access to a Snapon tester that I'm using to read the codes through the OBD-II connector and it also let's me do a bit of diagnostic testing. One of these is to cycle the solenoids (low-reverse, 2-4, underdrive, overdrive) on and off. When I do this test, all cycle fine except the 2-4 solenoid which sort of makes sense given the problem.

Using the Alldata online manual, I did the troubleshooting for the 2-4 solenoid. No shorted wires, no open wires, no shorted solenoids on the solenoid pack itself and the correct resistance values (1-3 ohms) between the 2-4 solenoid (pin 19 on the Trans Ctrl Module plug) and the transmission control relay output (pins 16 and 17 on the TCM plug). The end of the troubleshooting flowchart said to change the TCM which I did and I have the same problem with the 2-4 solenoid test still not working. Now then, I got a TCM from another Cirrus in the junkyard so I can't guarantee it didn't have the same issue but what's weird is that I can perform the solenoid test with the solenoid pack disconnected and again, all work fine except the 2-4 solenoid. That tells me it's the TCM (or an input to it) since at this point the tranny/solenoid pack isn't even in the circuit.

I also drove it after the TCM change and the same thing happened and it set the 36 and 52 codes. Read up on those and they don't sound too good.

So now I'm off to check some inputs. Hope this helps you out in your troubleshooting and if I do find the answer, I'll be sure to post it.

did you check for pressure with a gauge? all you need to do is tap into the 2/4 pressure port and remove the trans relay. this will show line pressue on that circuit. all solenoids are off for 2nd gear so any shorted or open wires would not matter as you'd have 2nd gear since that's the fail safe gear!

a very common problem is the genius engineers decided to use a plastic accumulator for 2/4... why TF they changed it is beyond comprension and it's only the 2/4 that happened. this was for a short run in the mid 90's and since you have a mid90's it 'could' be the problem. again a pressure test can determine this...
and you're sure it's 2nd gear that failed and not 3rd?

my trany has zero miles. just rebuilt.. well lets hope the guy rebuilt it. my scaner has the readings for presure. it just reads hi or low. so im going to check the line presures and see whats going on...

hay chrysler22 thanks for coming back to me.... yes it has nothing past 1st. 1st then nothing. I am ordering a pressure test kit so I can check. due to having so many cars with trans problems coming into my garage it might be a useful tool. and with that and the rebuild manual I know I will get it. tomarrow Im goin to try the pull a plug test and see what happens. and my scanner does have a high low reading on the trans screen. doesent give pressure but just high and low. I will let ya know how it goes.. thanks again for all the help...

you can't assume you have the same problem as the other guy. you problem was induced buy someone that screwed up. his problem seems to have arose while in use... these are two totally different senarios. Glad to hear you are going to use proper diagnostic equipment to pin point the problem. I think you should just pull the trans and ship it back to the guy that 'fixed' it.

ya that might be the final answer... to ship back to him.

looks like you should have bought that unit you found for $300. You probably have more than that into this rebuilt one. Oh and pressure for 2nd gear will be 120-145psi. the pressure port is the 2nd one from the driver side. I suppose you need me to tell you the location of the ports?

if pressure is way below, I'd drop the valve body and do some checking... Like an air pressure test on the 2/4 piston, check 2/4 accumulator, check for the apply port to have the seal on the valve body.. Then the fun part is getting back in... as you drop the valve body, 2 pistons and some springs fall out.

I know where the ports are. thanks. as for taking down the VB. its easy just flip it on its roof and rub its belly . it will stay there. lol

pulled the cap off the selaniode. no forward gears... reverse only. so no it never hit 2nd....... going to find a psi gauge now if not ebay here I come..

its a SOLENOID pack. You are getting me even more confused with your shifting explaination!!! if you loosened the 8mm bolt and pulled the 8 wire plug from the solenoid, and have NO forward what so ever, then for sure 2nd gear hydraulic circuit is your problem. so did he forget the rubber seal, accumulator, accumulator seals, install accumulator backwards, forget the clutch piston seals, etc, etc, etc (this is a rhetorical question)... The more you post, the more I think you got a great deal:rolleyes:

2-4 Accumulator Piston cracked! Replaced and now problem solved.
 

Ok guys, figured I'd post one last time and give the results of my tranny issues. 22chrysler hit the nail on the head with the accumulator piston but I wanted to tell you how I confirmed it without just digging into the tranny looking.

With the new TCM installed, I finally got some codes....a 36 and a 52. The 36 code sounded really bad and made it sound like a rebuild was in order. I then read about the code 52 and the first thing for you to do was to check the build date on the transmission.

Now this in itself was a trick since the number on my transmission was K692-2181-5112. That may tell you something but it doesn't tell me a thing. Luckily, there's a TSB out there that helps. This is TSB 211595 dated 9/15/95 with subject Accumulator - Intermittent DTC's 36, 52, or 54 Set. The first thing I noticed on this was this:


NOTE : THIS BULLETIN APPLIES TO VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH A 41TE OR 42LE TRANSAXLE THAT WAS BUILT BETWEEN SEPT. 1, 1994 AND JULY 14, 1995 (TRANSAXLE IDENTIFICATION CODE NUMBER XXX-2088-XXX THRU XXX-2404-XXXX)

BINGO!!! Now I know my transmission had a build date with the plastic 2-4 piston installed. The bulletin went on to say the plastic 2-4 accumulator piston and seal ring should be replaced with an aluminum accumulator piston with two seal rings. When I dropped the pan and valve body and removed the piston, I found it cracked all along the top with a 3/8" diameter piece missing from the center. There are two things to point out about removing the valve body. First, make sure the manual valve lever (where the shift linkage attaches) is turned fully clockwise. This pulls the park sprag rollers out from under the park sprag guide bracket so the valve body will drop down. Second, when you start to drop the valve body, do so very slowly. There are two pistons with springs under the valve body that WILL drop out. As I was dropping the valve body, I reached in with my fingers on the side of the valve body closest to the engine and could feel the springs. I then held them in place while I dropped the valve body and then pulled them out so I could see which one went where. When I put the valve body back on, I did the same thing and held the springs/pistons in place while I put the valve body in place. A helper with an extra set of hands would work out nicely during reinstallation. Also remember to turn the manual valve lever back fully counterclockwise to install the linkage.

As far as the new piston, I got that from my local Chrysler dealer.

1 Piston needed (part number 4446620)
2 Teflon Seals needed (part number 4446544)

Total cost was about $25. Combine that with $40 for a new filter and 6 qts of ATF+4 tranny fluid and I got off cheap considering I could have had serious issues.

Once I got everything back together and started the car, I let it idle for a couple of minutes doing a leak check and then slowly went to each position until I felt it actually go into gear. It still gave me a code 35 loss of prime. It was like there was air in the system that had to work itself out but after taking it around the block a couple of times, I cleared the code and have been driving ever since. One other thing I noticed is that while my Underdrive Clutch Volume Index was really high before (all others normal) it's now within it's normal range.

So bottom line, the accumulator piston was cracked and when the system sensed the loss of pressure, it then went into "limp" mode but since the piston was cracked, there was no 2nd gear so it was like it shifted into Neutral.

I know this is a really long reply but this post was the only one I found that described the problem I was having. My hope is it might help someone else out if they run into the same issue.

mmmmmmmmmmmm

many thanks rbinms33. will check that out. havent had time to look at it so I plan on doing it next week. got a blow up of the trans so I shouldnt have a problem getting this fixed.

mmmmmmmmmmmmm

I have done nothing with it.... been busy with work. I asked the rebuilder about the 2-4 accumulator piston and he had no idea what I was talking about. he is just grasping at straws. so some time next week I will get it in my garage and do a 2-4 pressure test. and see what that is. the dodge dealer had the parts in stock. so I got them. just in case. and we will see whats up. will let ya know what I find out. if anything I will buy another trans or find a diffrent van for the wife.

mmmmmmmmmmmmmmm

well finally I got some more time top look at it.
pressure test.
2/4 port = nothing
l/r port = all with in specs. of course when it shifted to sec. the pressure dropped. and wouldent reurn the first till I restarted the motor. rev was in spec. while in limp mode...... getting the rebuild book on cd today... I WILL FIGURE THIS OUT!!!!!!

22chrysler..... you are funny. I ask you to rebuild my trans and you tell me no. I ask this forum for help and you come on here and after many post you say I have to much time invested into you. I quit!!!! then you ask me for the psi readings. then you tell me that you will fix for 500.00. now I put the psi. on there and you change all your posts.. and reason is you cant remove them... you know what you are not the only guy that knows transmissions. you are not a god. I never begged you for help. I said in the beginning that transmissions were spanish to me. im sorry that you felt you wasted your time. you also said check the 2/4 acc. piston. then someone else says somthing about it and you say..NO THATS NOT IT!!!!!! you know alot I can and believe this. but your attitude is you know everything. one that puts himself on a pedestal will be the one everyone knocks off. you give everyone here an attitude. this is a free fourm. get over yourself your not that great.

He won't be a problem anymore. PM me if he is.

wasent a problem. just stuck on himself . he is god and we are a bunch of idiots!!!! was I not the only one to have a problem with him. just back talked alot and confused me. Im just looking for answers..thanks

I told him to chill out and be respectful... Apparently, that's too hard for him. Numerous people reported him.