The glow plugs stay on a lot longer than the time the light is on, the light is just to make you wait a bit before cranking

Richard

 

Yep, spot on Richard.

My curious mind got the better of me, so this morning, cold morning (5oC) engine cold I put my meter on one of the glow plug contacts and switched ignition on.
Plug light came on in cab and after 3 seconds went out.
Power was still applied to the plugs right up to 17 seconds, then I heard the relay click and the plug power was withdrawn.
Switched ignition off and repeated a few seconds later, exactly the same.

Then after driving, engine coolant temperature was up to half way (outside ambient temp was up to 10oC so not mega-warm), switched off, did the test again:
Plug light came on and went off after 1 second.
Plug actual power was on again right up to 17 seconds.

So, so far it seems the plug power is on for 17 seconds regardless, and the indicator in the cab changes depending on coolant temperature but has no real bearing on the glow plug activity themselves.
So there we have it!

 

When you get those readings that must be the case...They are playing with our heads!

 

Did you solve the problem ? , Had ones a 99 2.5TD and milage was allways low it turn out engine temp. sensor was faulty it show 18 C deg. to low , And ECU thought it was cold running extra diesel. It also never turn on the blower on radiator even on a very hot summer day +26 C deg.

 

No- not yet.I had all 4 injectors refurbished and now im getting 45miles more.They clear all the codes and reset all the injector setings.After 20 miles drive the P1130 is back-no idea where to go.
Any sugestions more than welcome-I'm from London

 

Here this thread is hitting Pension age. Here Mac have you changed the Engine/Coolant temperature sensor yet as it keeps hitting my head here. Ouch Ouch...

 

No.If the cooling sensor is faulty this will affect mileage ad performance of the car? The code is pointing to bad fuel pressure in the system.
I will be really great full for the answer ,so can learn again something new about the cars(I’m a chef)

 

I think you need a DRB 3 tester and read the fuel pressure and prop valve signal. if the prop valve is stuck or you got a broken wire usual near the transmission where the harness through a bracket (very common on the diesel version) course of vibration.

If prop valve is bad usual shown when engine gets warm. Could also be a broken wire when isolation get soft .

But I have never seen P1130 with out engine cut out.

2.8CRD usual gets a leak drawing air into the fuel (course by bad design diesel filter housing ) if will not leak diesel and is difficult to spot only with a clear hose between filter and HP pump.

Fuel housing leak will usual cause bad start .

If leak failure has been there for a long time it can cause cavitation in HP pump and wear it pressure fail is the outcome for sure.

 

hmmm sounds interesting. Will look in to this.
I’m thinking to go to the Bosh diagnose centre and hopefully they will be able to find the problem.
Also, I will try to change the coolant sensor during the weekend.

 

Hi,
Where i can find in engine coolant sensor?
Behind the air filter i discovered two unpluged hoses any ide whats that for?
Please see the pictures