So I got my van diagnosed and was told that the reason my battery light and the van runs off the battery is:

"POB active generator field not switching properly, verified full field."

They said that the PCM/ECM needs to be replaced. Well they quoted me like $750, I know that is insane because I have seen them online way cheaper.

I checked on "Auto Computer Exchange" they have good prices, but their online reputation appears to be horrid, expect eBay. On eBay they have 100% positive feedback since 2002 with over 16000 reviews...so what is with that? Has anyone ordered one of their eBay units before?

eBay Feedback Profile for autocomputerexchange-ace

 

how about the alternator 9 times out 0f 10 that will go out before a low currant circuit on the PCM will have issues.

 

I have already replaced the alternator and tried a few other batteries.

 

Connections/terminals under fuse box perhaps.

 

Why would it be that if the diagnostics has already determined that the problem is not the alternator, starter, battery, or wiring, but the PCM?

 

Corroded terminals cause loads of problems...Can think of other cars have same problem. Flip it over and see. Cars have been scrapped due to add faults. Even stumps garages not in the know.
Every idea helps.

 

- the O/P was quoted $750 in a game of 'parts darts'
- Chrysler tech & goggsy are both correct in that if its not the alternator per-se
- its between the alternator output & spaghetti wiring and information crossroads called a IPM
- so the next logic based thing to eliminate is the PCM

- a bad IPM can look clean and pretty from the top



- that same bad PCM can, when opened up, look like this inside



- add to the above 2 problems the multitudes of inch thick bundles of cables and associated plugs that go into the bottom 'pinouts' of the IPM
- and you will understand why the IPM [ particularly the bottom] is a frequent cause of problems

All problems are a process of eliminating. the cheap easy cost free first, leading on to the expensive and difficult parts exchange - only after the ones you can check & be confident about are eliminated. A cheap meter and 15 minutes will confirm the I/O of the IPM, worth a look first AODfan. Lots of posts on this and other forums on the verdigris, broken cankered wire and loose and compromised plugs in the underside of IPM's

- the bottom of the IPM into which all critical cables go looks like this when its in good knick

[IMG][/IMG]

 

That's scary!

 

HiYa Al, I've been inside them, they are actually three layer PCB's, the pin starts at the bottom layer then goes through different soldered PCB' at differing levels coming out of the top - an amazing sight & length of pins. Mine was ok, 99% of the easy to solve is as stated grunge and cancered and compromised broken wires onto the bottom of the PCB where the thick bundles of cables enter the PCB. it's really in a bad place, and, as is the case here no one in a lifetime ever looks under them because you have to remove the battery to swing right to left in an big arc [it usually cant move (battery size) if the battery is in situ] the whole PCB box to get at the underside. Take care Al lad. Its one of those items that unless you check you can never be sure of anyone's diagnostics even a main stealer.

 

Ok, I am kinda confused now, you keep saying PCM but showing a pic of a fuse box? I do see where goggs mentioned under the fuse box, is that what those pictures are to show as an example? The PCM on my car is separate from the fuse box and is a complete enclosed metal case that is mounted to the side.

I do remember something that did slip my mind until now. About a month ago, after the van was giving me these problems and I replaced the alternator, after a good reset (left the battery unhooked for a couple of days) the issue went away and I was glad. The moment I went to wash the van (I went to a touch less one) the issue came back after water had been sprayed everywhere and has not gone away despite trying to reset it again.