No sound after changing radio?
Hi
I have a voyager and I wanted to change the factory fitted radio that all went well but I had no sound. What I found was if I plug in the Chrysler radio then swap the plug to the new radio all is fine sound is great. The problem is when I turn the ignition off and on again I have no sound again the only way I can get it back is by pugging the Chrysler radio back in and without turning ignition off putting the other one back on. It seems that the Chrysler radio is sending a signal or something to a device in the car to clear it. Can anyone help? thanks Bill |
RE: No sound after changing radio?
You need an auto-electrician.
chrysler radio's are fitted and paired with vin of the car. this needs to be erased. a good auto electrican can do this for u. |
RE: No sound after changing radio?
Hi
thanks for the unfortunately in the UK we don't seem to have any good auto-electricians as I have phoned every man and his dog and they all say, they would have to rewirethe after market radioto every speaker in the car to get round the manufactures amp unit. I have today heard the Chrysler USA do a lead that just plugs in and you can put an aftermarket radio straight in. Low and behold in the UK they say they don't have this available. So I am now trying to contact them to see if they will supply me with the cost and sell me one. There is probably a company who makes this bit of kit in the States already but I haven't found it yet. Or a workaround as no one seems to know how to erase the pairing. thanks Bill |
RE: No sound after changing radio?
You may have a bad amp or a blown fuse.
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Might be called a necrobump, but I solved this.
You need to send these codes on the J1850 bus: Amplifier on: 8D 0F 41 Volume 0: 3D 13 00 00 Pan/fade center: 3D 14 00 00 Bass/treble neutral: 3D 15 00 00 Amp set volume: 3D 13 18 They need to be re-sent (except for the volume 0 one!!!!!!) every about 850 ms. You can NOT do this with an OBDII tester because it doesn't support one byte headers. |
Originally Posted by bigbill2656
(Post 16058)
Hi
thanks for the unfortunately in the UK we don't seem to have any good auto-electricians as I have phoned every man and his dog and they all say, they would have to rewirethe after market radioto every speaker in the car to get round the manufactures amp unit. I have today heard the Chrysler USA do a lead that just plugs in and you can put an aftermarket radio straight in. Low and behold in the UK they say they don't have this available. So I am now trying to contact them to see if they will supply me with the cost and sell me one. There is probably a company who makes this bit of kit in the States already but I haven't found it yet. Or a workaround as no one seems to know how to erase the pairing. thanks Bill |
I simply have no idea why everyone and theor dog say to kick the amp to the curb.... it has, if that is of any interest, the tuned crossovers for the D column speakers you'll otherwise lose, apart from losing frequency range on front bottom/top speakers. I just posted the solution to actually get the factory amp, which is quite good, to work!
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Originally Posted by Melanie_T
(Post 114041)
I simply have no idea why everyone and theor dog say to kick the amp to the curb.... it has, if that is of any interest, the tuned crossovers for the D column speakers you'll otherwise lose, apart from losing frequency range on front bottom/top speakers. I just posted the solution to actually get the factory amp, which is quite good, to work!
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Andy has pix, his blog was quite valuable for that and also the writeups, pinnings, etc. But no one I know of has the actual turn on codes for the amp in the UK Chryslers. There is a lot of stuff to find about bypassing it, but I've scoured the internet and no one has found a way to turn it on, the threads all peter out with no solution.
That is why I built hardware to intecept and relay J1850 data and found these codes. I also gave them to Andy via his Facebook already, to add to the blog. |
Originally Posted by Melanie_T
(Post 114045)
Andy has pix, his blog was quite valuable for that and also the writeups, pinnings, etc. But no one I know of has the actual turn on codes for the amp in the UK Chryslers. There is a lot of stuff to find about bypassing it, but I've scoured the internet and no one has found a way to turn it on, the threads all peter out with no solution.
That is why I built hardware to intecept and relay J1850 data and found these codes. I also gave them to Andy via his Facebook already, to add to the blog. We're all here to help each other in the best way we can. I'm pleased you gave Andy the codes he's a very nice bloke. |
I rewired my speakers with Andy's help. Full details are in this thread. https://www.chryslerforum.com/forum/...t-28640/page2/
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Yes but that again is a solution that doesn't keep the factory amp. What I found out is how to keep the factory amp. I'm going to extend it to provide 8 level speed dependent volume, then I'll do a writeup on our blog and will link to it. Also, my current software doesn't turn the amp off yet if the radio is turned off, it leaves it on until the car is turned off. So much work, so little time. If I had a list of the bus codes (not the OBDII ones!) that keep scrolling by whenever the car is running, that would be really great. I know I've seen such a list posted somewhere once, but I've lost the location.
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Originally Posted by Melanie_T
(Post 114051)
Yes but that again is a solution that doesn't keep the factory amp. What I found out is how to keep the factory amp. I'm going to extend it to provide 8 level speed dependent volume, then I'll do a writeup on our blog and will link to it. Also, my current software doesn't turn the amp off yet if the radio is torned off, it leaves it on until the car is turned off. So much work, so little time. If I had a list of the bus codes (not the OBDII ones!) that keep scrolling by whenever the car is running, that would be really great. I know I've seen such a list posted somewhere once, but I've lost the location.
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The factory amp has the crossover built into it. By wiring the speakers in series you get the 4 ohms you need for an aftermarket unit, but you're feeding full spectrum to speakers not suited for it. The amp splits the band to feed the proper frequencies to the speakers, that was my main reason for wanting to keep it at all cost.
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Originally Posted by Melanie_T
(Post 114038)
Might be called a necobump, but I solved this.
You need to send these codes on the J1850 bus: Amplifier on: 8D 0F 41 Volume 0: 3D 13 00 00 Pan/fade center: 3D 14 00 00 Bass/treble neutral: 3D 15 00 00 Amp set volume: 3D 13 18 They need to be re-sent (except for the volume 0 one!!!!!!) every about 850 ms. You can NOT do this with an OBDII tester because it doesn't support one byte headers. i have android player with canbus decoder can i connecting the can+ and can- to J1850 ?? because my player car plug not have can+ and can - what i can do ??? |
Originally Posted by shahbour
(Post 119908)
i need to ask about this
i have android player with canbus decoder can i connecting the can+ and can- to J1850 ?? because my player car plug not have can+ and can - what i can do ??? |
Originally Posted by Melanie_T
(Post 119912)
Sorry, you can't connect CAN and J1850. They are completely different, both electrical and protocol don't match.You would have to build a small circuit to send the radio turn-on codes, like I did.
And how i can connect the can bus decoder to can make wheel buttons on? |
Originally Posted by shahbour
(Post 119914)
How i can do it?
And how i can connect the can bus decoder to can make wheel buttons on? You need to build a circuit that takes J1850 and matches it to microcontroller signals. I have such circuits and software for both ESP-32 and ATMega328 processors. The processor would also need to be connected to your CAN bus, that is possible only with ESP-32 as the Atmel processor has too little processing power. You would need to write software that receives your steering wheel commands from J1850 and sends out corresponding CAN messages to your radio. All this is not well documented. I have written software that uses an ATMega328 to control my amplifier and also convert chrysler steering wheel controls to Alpine remote signals (which themselves are not well documented). It requires quite a high level of knowledge about low level programming to do this. It can be done, but the learning curve is steep. |
Originally Posted by Melanie_T
(Post 119917)
So, here's the complex bit.
You need to build a circuit that takes J1850 and matches it to microcontroller signals. I have such circuits and software for both ESP-32 and ATMega328 processors. The processor would also need to be connected to your CAN bus, that is possible only with ESP-32 as the Atmel processor has too little processing power. You would need to write software that receives your steering wheel commands from J1850 and sends out corresponding CAN messages to your radio. All this is not well documented. I have written software that uses an ATMega328 to control my amplifier and also convert chrysler steering wheel controls to Alpine remote signals (which themselves are not well documented). It requires quite a high level of knowledge about low level programming to do this. It can be done, but the learning curve is steep. |
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Hey here. Accidentally stumbled inhere while trying to install a new Pioneer radio into a 2005 Chrysler T&C without canbus. I.e. the radio 22-connector plug just has the pin 14 as PCI-Bus (the rest of wire is standard power and speakers.)
I have tried several adapters for SWC, but the most seems to have just pin 12,13 and 15 wired, not the14! Very strange. Question: Would this pin 14 (PCI connector) be the right one for AMP ON signal, or do I need to venture into this: https://www.caraudiocentre.co.uk/pro...0c_p-36162.htm Where it seems that the AMP ON is a blue/white wire that needs to be attached somewhere (not shown by vendor) Hit me back with ideas, Cheers Mike |
2008 chrysler sebring with boston premium audio. Does it have a factory amp.i put in a after market stereo. & speakers sound like they are busted
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