Please help '96 Town & Country won't start
#11
Update on the no-start Town&Country. I procured a PCM online for a mere $150. (A bargain!) The company is out of Florida and they are called AutoComputerExchange. I couldn't be happier. They sent the device 2nd day and it's ready to install w/ all of the correct firmware and has a 14 day money back guarantee.
One piece of advice though...you can purchase it through their website directly, but they also sell on Ebay. Ebay was about $60 cheaper and they had a buy it now option. Same company, same computer, $60 cheaper.
Installed computer, turned the ignition and it fired right up. As improbable as I thought a dead computer would be, I was amazed when it really was the problem. My troubleshooting made me confident that the computer was the culprit, but my experience told me that it couldn't be the problem. There was always this nagging doubt that it wasn't going to work and that I'd spent my coworkers $150 unnecessarily, but at last....VICTORY!.
Thanks for everyone's help.
Mark
One piece of advice though...you can purchase it through their website directly, but they also sell on Ebay. Ebay was about $60 cheaper and they had a buy it now option. Same company, same computer, $60 cheaper.
Installed computer, turned the ignition and it fired right up. As improbable as I thought a dead computer would be, I was amazed when it really was the problem. My troubleshooting made me confident that the computer was the culprit, but my experience told me that it couldn't be the problem. There was always this nagging doubt that it wasn't going to work and that I'd spent my coworkers $150 unnecessarily, but at last....VICTORY!.
Thanks for everyone's help.
Mark
#13
This may be too little too late, but I just signed on today. From what you describe, chances are it's your ECM, the engine 'brain.' I have a '96 Dodge Grand Caravan with a 3.3. It just 'died' for me one day a couple of years ago. After determining that it wasn't a fuel delivery probem, I did everything you did: replaced the camshaft sensor, crank shaft sensor and coil power pack. Nothing. It turned out to be the ECM. The ignition module is integral and they do go bad. You can buy a new one from the dealer for $600+ or get a rebuilt for about $300. I bought two ($80 and $30) from junkyards. The only problem with the '96 3.3 is that it was a crossover model and only another '96 will work. Not sure about the 3.8. I put in the new/ used ECM; turned the ignition key 10x and the van fired up. It worked until about a month ago. The replacement ECM crapped out but I had the spare in the back; never thinking I need another. When my wife took it into the shop and the mechanic told her the ECM was bad, she told him to look to use the one stored in the back of the van. Blew him away! Too bad you can't return all of the electrical parts you've already replaced. Those HAL Effect sensors rarely go bad. Good luck.
Mark (my name too)
Mark (my name too)
#14
I have all 4 wires getting that above but when I plug it to the coil they are all ground is my coil pack bad
#15
Unplug the coil plug and using a 12 volt test light, not a meter, check the signals. When checking the 12 volts, you need to put the light clamp on the ground and the probe on the 12 volt wire. I believe that wire is hot as soon as you turn the key on. Next, switch the clamp to the positive terminal and put the probe on each of the "firing" wires. They are ground pulses sent from the computer. When you crank the engine, it should flash the test light. At this point, the engine will not start because you have the plug in your hand.
But when you connect it to the coil, how are you testing that they are all grounded?
Here's my thoughts on your question. If you have good signals coming into the coil (using the test that I just described) and you don't have any sparks coming from your spark plug, the coil (or wires) are bad. Typically wires don't all go bad at the same time, so I'd lean heavily toward the coil being your issue.
A side note here...you'll notice that the engine is a V6 and the coil only has 3 signal wires and 1 12 volt line. Each coil simultaneously fires 2 cylinders. But only one of those cylinders will be on the compression stroke during firing. The other cylinder just has a wasted spark. There's no harm in that, it just keeps from needing 6 coils and and the additional circuitry to trigger it. I tell you that because you may, at some point, have an issue where 2 cylinders die at the same time. They would likely be fed from the same coil and it died. Unfortunately, the coil pack is constructed as a module and if anything dies, the entire pack has to be replaced.
Good luck,
Mark
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