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Ok so tried to disable the auto lock feature but still not opening
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Can we clarify a few points:
1) Does the problem apply to both sliding doors? 2) What about the tailgate. Does that open when the engine is running? 3) While the engine is running, can you open the sliding doors: a) manually b) with the internal buttons c) with the remote fob |
Originally Posted by AlanC
(Post 110838)
Can we clarify a few points:
1) Does the problem apply to both sliding doors? 2) What about the tailgate. Does that open when the engine is running? 3) While the engine is running, can you open the sliding doors: a) manually b) with the internal buttons c) with the remote fob 2 cant open tailgate while engine is running 3 a (i can open it manually) |
I just tried the sliding doors on my 2007 model. With and without the engine running, and with and without the child safety locks on, using the internal overhead buttons both doors opened as expected. So not sure what the cause of your problem can be.
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Originally Posted by AlanC
(Post 110857)
I just tried the sliding doors on my 2007 model. With and without the engine running, and with and without the child safety locks on, using the internal overhead buttons both doors opened as expected. So not sure what the cause of your problem can be.
Im literally just so frustrated right now |
I'm stumped. The only other thing I can suggest is to disconnect the negative lead from the cars battery. Leave it disconnected for 15 minutes then reconnect it. This will reset the BCM.
CAUTION. After reconnecting you may need the code for the radio so make sure you have that first. |
Originally Posted by AlanC
(Post 110950)
I'm stumped. The only other thing I can suggest is to disconnect the negative lead from the cars battery. Leave it disconnected for 15 minutes then reconnect it. This will reset the BCM.
CAUTION. After reconnecting you may need the code for the radio so make sure you have that first. |
Originally Posted by Miggs8804
(Post 110951)
Yeah thats the first thing i did but didnt work
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Originally Posted by Miggs8804
(Post 110951)
Yeah thats the first thing i did but didnt work
From a couple of years ago. NOTE01 : There are IOD 7 functions that are always 'live' when you think your car and battery are both asleep, they pull a combined 0.025 ampere draw. • Electrical items left on. • Faulty or improperly adjusted switches. • Faulty or shorted electronic modules and components. • An internally shorted generator. • Intermittent shorts in the wiring Remote key fob Radio Heater blower Folding mirrors Central locks Interior lights when the key is in the ignition The 15 minutes point Al was making is real. There's residual 'stay alive current', even covering the bonnet [you lifted] alarm. Try it with the NEG off for 15-20. This issue could be anywhere in the single wire length of the PCi BUS or the earth posts but its usually soft or hard. A reboot after sleep will DIY cure many soft, the greater degree of difficulty almost always involves a diagnostic reader/writer.Hard is finding which point in the loom [[b]wire chasing is a pig] Best of luck. |
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