Thick black smoke when accelerating
#1
Thick black smoke when accelerating
hi newbie here, ive noticed over the last few weeks that my car has been belching thick black smoke smoke i even left a cyclist gasping for breath. Its almost like a huge smoke screen but it happens when accelerating or changing gears the longer i drove the car the better it got but it was still pretty bad
2.5 crd diesel.
Any ideas????
2.5 crd diesel.
Any ideas????
#2
Black smoke usually has something to do with a fuel injection system malfunction
Blue smoke can indicate you are burning engine oil somehow and white smoke is a coolant leak, mostly blown head gaskets, or there is a new pope elected .
Blue smoke can indicate you are burning engine oil somehow and white smoke is a coolant leak, mostly blown head gaskets, or there is a new pope elected .
#3
From posted symptoms, i.e. getting better with long driving, I would go for injector cleaning the pro. way. This means pouring some Forte' diesel injector cleaner in the fuel filter and then running the engine on your normal driving.
If this makes a vast difference, try cleaning-diesel like BP. Ulimate or Shell V-power for a few months.
Leedsman.
If this makes a vast difference, try cleaning-diesel like BP. Ulimate or Shell V-power for a few months.
Leedsman.
#5
I can recommend Swadlincote Diesel Bosch Injectors in the Midlands : Swadlincote Diesel F.I.S. Co Ltd as a place to send your injectors to have them tested. Recondition injectors from there will be about £140 each.
You could try the "italian tune-up" method, take it somewhere quiet and drive it like you stole it. Maximum revs in 2nd or 3rd gear and let it blow some of the crud out of the engine.
Regards
Richard
You could try the "italian tune-up" method, take it somewhere quiet and drive it like you stole it. Maximum revs in 2nd or 3rd gear and let it blow some of the crud out of the engine.
Regards
Richard
#7
How about the O/P telling us what oil is in it and how long its been there ?. Synth is much less likely to breakdown and does not need the extra additives, its much less prone to varnish and coking. The additives already in the synth don't break down or deteriorate over time .. .. they only ever breakdown over usage. My 2000 miles per annum at 2 trips per week is more likely [thermal breakdown] to goose good or bad oil because it never gets hot enough to boil off the contaminants.
Richies "Italian tune-up" method is a good suggestion
Richies "Italian tune-up" method is a good suggestion
#8
That "italian tune-up" idea is the only one that works if the injectors are coked up. No chemist has ever found anything that will dissolve carbon in any of its forms, EVER.
So if it's a coke-up job, putting solvents etc. in the diesel won't work. Only a burn-up on the motorway/highway could work by burning off the the carbon crud to carbon dioxide.
Otherwise, it's out with the injectors and over to the professional cleaners. If you do this, to be on the safe side, make sure each injector goes back into its original hole. Some control micros have to have each injector calibrated. Not sure either way with these VM-Motoris. You can ask the cleaning Co. if the injectors need reconditioning, -- they can wear like anything else, giving a bad spray pattern, black smoke and heavy fuel consumption.
Leedsman.
So if it's a coke-up job, putting solvents etc. in the diesel won't work. Only a burn-up on the motorway/highway could work by burning off the the carbon crud to carbon dioxide.
Otherwise, it's out with the injectors and over to the professional cleaners. If you do this, to be on the safe side, make sure each injector goes back into its original hole. Some control micros have to have each injector calibrated. Not sure either way with these VM-Motoris. You can ask the cleaning Co. if the injectors need reconditioning, -- they can wear like anything else, giving a bad spray pattern, black smoke and heavy fuel consumption.
Leedsman.
#9
That "Italian tuneup method" .. How does it work exactly?
Drive revs just before the "red line" like in 3th gear on the highway?
For how long? 5 minutes? an hour?
My engine runs fine at the moment but in case I get carbonoized ever again...
Drive revs just before the "red line" like in 3th gear on the highway?
For how long? 5 minutes? an hour?
My engine runs fine at the moment but in case I get carbonoized ever again...
#10
Read this post from a couple of weeks ago :
Our cars and speed limits in the UK usually mean we will never reach peak torque RPM, we tend to do 99% of our driving in the 2,000-4,000 RPM range, most around town-ers and school run-ers never get to 2000RPM with their light throttle loads. Its not so difficult even in the 2.8 automatic to 'blow cobwebs' out. Take an already warm car onto a quiet trading estate on a Sunday, lock it in 2nd and give it 15-30 minutes at 4000RPM, it will boogar your MPG average but will cough some cacka up !
A caveat emptor doctrine applies to the above advice, and yes check all levels before and after and watch the gauges like a hawk.
Our cars and speed limits in the UK usually mean we will never reach peak torque RPM, we tend to do 99% of our driving in the 2,000-4,000 RPM range, most around town-ers and school run-ers never get to 2000RPM with their light throttle loads. Its not so difficult even in the 2.8 automatic to 'blow cobwebs' out. Take an already warm car onto a quiet trading estate on a Sunday, lock it in 2nd and give it 15-30 minutes at 4000RPM, it will boogar your MPG average but will cough some cacka up !
A caveat emptor doctrine applies to the above advice, and yes check all levels before and after and watch the gauges like a hawk.