You wouldn't think it was this hard !!
#1
You wouldn't think it was this hard !!
Anyone help me to find out what kind of GEARBOX Oil that I should put in my Grand Voyager 2003 2.5TDi ...
I have read lots of articles that vary between 10-40W and Mopar ATF4..
I even went into a shop which looked in the comma oil book and it clearly said 10-40W then I looked in my handbook and it stated Mopar ATF.
Under the car I pulled the level plug and it's definately auto box type fluid and defo not just engine type oil.
If I go to Halfords - what do I get !!!!!....
Many thanks for any help...
I have read lots of articles that vary between 10-40W and Mopar ATF4..
I even went into a shop which looked in the comma oil book and it clearly said 10-40W then I looked in my handbook and it stated Mopar ATF.
Under the car I pulled the level plug and it's definately auto box type fluid and defo not just engine type oil.
If I go to Halfords - what do I get !!!!!....
Many thanks for any help...
#2
I had the exact same issues in the past with my 2001 CRD.
It's for sure ATF... I have used 10/40W in the past and the gearchange was horrible.. drained it straight out again.
I have used ATF Dextron II which may not be the exact type, ATF4 seems to be a bit harder to get hold of.
I've changed twice now, and plan to do it again soon, I'm at 147000 miles and not had any gearbox problems at all.
Mat
It's for sure ATF... I have used 10/40W in the past and the gearchange was horrible.. drained it straight out again.
I have used ATF Dextron II which may not be the exact type, ATF4 seems to be a bit harder to get hold of.
I've changed twice now, and plan to do it again soon, I'm at 147000 miles and not had any gearbox problems at all.
Mat
#3
Mopar ATF4+ is the correct ATF fluid if the vehicle has an autobox. I strongly suggest you use only this fluid. The additive package will be appropriate for this autobox*.
If your gearbox is manual, I would still stick to the maker's advice, but it will be less pertinent, meaning you will possibly "get away" with a less appropriate oil.
* Autobox additive packages are important. Mainly there will be viscosity improvers to stop the ATF fluid thinning out at high temperatures (which can be well over 100*C) This is why the base oil is better if synthetic.
Secondly there will be friction modifiers appropriate to the autobox. Mainly there will be a wetclutch around the torque converter for economy purposes and to have the engine turning during deceleration-fuel-shutoff, another fuel saving method. If these additives are wrong, there's a possibility of clutch judder (in american clutch shudder) from either the TC clutch or one of the many clutch-packs contained in autoboxes.
Not many autoboxes use brakebands to shift nowadays BTW.
Leedsman.
If your gearbox is manual, I would still stick to the maker's advice, but it will be less pertinent, meaning you will possibly "get away" with a less appropriate oil.
* Autobox additive packages are important. Mainly there will be viscosity improvers to stop the ATF fluid thinning out at high temperatures (which can be well over 100*C) This is why the base oil is better if synthetic.
Secondly there will be friction modifiers appropriate to the autobox. Mainly there will be a wetclutch around the torque converter for economy purposes and to have the engine turning during deceleration-fuel-shutoff, another fuel saving method. If these additives are wrong, there's a possibility of clutch judder (in american clutch shudder) from either the TC clutch or one of the many clutch-packs contained in autoboxes.
Not many autoboxes use brakebands to shift nowadays BTW.
Leedsman.
#4
My handbook says ATF4+ for both auto and manual boxes.
Somewhere on this forum there is a thread (from Merlin or Glowpug?) describing the dangers of using normal gearbox oil in the manual box, I seem to remember it "eats" the yellow metals in the gearbox. Also seem to remember it needs changing every 20k miles?
Somewhere on this forum there is a thread (from Merlin or Glowpug?) describing the dangers of using normal gearbox oil in the manual box, I seem to remember it "eats" the yellow metals in the gearbox. Also seem to remember it needs changing every 20k miles?
#5
Anyone help me to find out what kind of GEARBOX Oil that I should put in my Grand Voyager 2003 2.5TDi ...
I have read lots of articles that vary between 10-40W and Mopar ATF4..
I even went into a shop which looked in the comma oil book and it clearly said 10-40W then I looked in my handbook and it stated Mopar ATF.
Under the car I pulled the level plug and it's definately auto box type fluid and defo not just engine type oil.
If I go to Halfords - what do I get !!!!!....
Many thanks for any help...
I have read lots of articles that vary between 10-40W and Mopar ATF4..
I even went into a shop which looked in the comma oil book and it clearly said 10-40W then I looked in my handbook and it stated Mopar ATF.
Under the car I pulled the level plug and it's definately auto box type fluid and defo not just engine type oil.
If I go to Halfords - what do I get !!!!!....
Many thanks for any help...
#6
Thanks Guys,
I have read up a bit more ... Thanks MrFixit for your read instructions help :-) .. However, helpfully the instructions in the manual recommend a manufacturer that doesn't sell in the UK... So I'm hunting an equivalent..
I saw Mats comment but it seems Dextron II/III is an old spec and apparently it is 40% more likely to fail a shear test than ATF4..
I then found this Comma product you should be able to get from Halfords
Halfords | Comma ATF & Power Steering Fluid 5L
So I'm going to see if they have any - but it looks as if it meets ATF4 spec. Just don't look in the official Comma book as it clearly says 10-40W !!!!!!!
As to Rodgers comment - the eats metals bit appears to be concerning the 199x - 2000 model voyager that apparently DID need 10-40W in the gearbox.. People were using Auto fluid instead and the sulpher in the oil eats the synchro mesh/cogs ... Opps
Neil
I have read up a bit more ... Thanks MrFixit for your read instructions help :-) .. However, helpfully the instructions in the manual recommend a manufacturer that doesn't sell in the UK... So I'm hunting an equivalent..
I saw Mats comment but it seems Dextron II/III is an old spec and apparently it is 40% more likely to fail a shear test than ATF4..
I then found this Comma product you should be able to get from Halfords
Halfords | Comma ATF & Power Steering Fluid 5L
So I'm going to see if they have any - but it looks as if it meets ATF4 spec. Just don't look in the official Comma book as it clearly says 10-40W !!!!!!!
As to Rodgers comment - the eats metals bit appears to be concerning the 199x - 2000 model voyager that apparently DID need 10-40W in the gearbox.. People were using Auto fluid instead and the sulpher in the oil eats the synchro mesh/cogs ... Opps
Neil
#7
Manual gearbox on 2001 voyager CRD's use ATF4 transmission fluid, that's straight out of the chrysler manuals.
As stated I've used Dextron III in the past which has been OK, i plan to change it again soon. It's not the exact recommended type I know, but it's better than 10w/40
As I later found out 10w/40 is for use in the earlier generation voyagers with manual transmission
As stated I've used Dextron III in the past which has been OK, i plan to change it again soon. It's not the exact recommended type I know, but it's better than 10w/40
As I later found out 10w/40 is for use in the earlier generation voyagers with manual transmission
#8
Specific gravity at 20 °C 0.845
Viscosity @ 100 °C 6.4 cSt
Viscosity @ 40 °C 33 cSt
Phosphorus 0.02%
This stuff, put your postcode in and it will find your 6 closest stockists - it found 6 within 5 miles of my house - including Halfords.
Viscosity @ 100 °C 6.4 cSt
Viscosity @ 40 °C 33 cSt
Phosphorus 0.02%
This stuff, put your postcode in and it will find your 6 closest stockists - it found 6 within 5 miles of my house - including Halfords.
#10
Thanks QInteQ - That's the stuff I got from Halfords in the end.. Seems OK so far.
mrfixit - my nose probably isn't good enough to tell the difference but I thought it was a bit lighter than dextron so I guess you are right and they probably put other stuff in to increase protection...
mrfixit - my nose probably isn't good enough to tell the difference but I thought it was a bit lighter than dextron so I guess you are right and they probably put other stuff in to increase protection...
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