2000 Cirrus stalling problem

  #1  
Old 01-27-2010, 09:36 PM
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Default 2000 Cirrus stalling problem

I have a 2000 Chrysler Cirrus with 2.4 liter engine. About 4 weeks ago we were out and the car just quit with no warning after about an hour of driving and wouldn't start. After about 5 minutes it started back up but died again after a couple minutes. It did this several times so we left the car and got a ride home. Returned to the car 2 hours later and it started up and I drove it home with no problems. Didn't use the car at all for 2 weeks except to idle it in driveway which it would do for long periods of time with no problem and then I did drive the car and had the exact same issues as it quit on me after about an hour of driving. Let the car sit for 2 hours and then drove it home with no issues. Today I got in the car without even warming it up and drove only 5 minutes and had the same problems. I have changed both camshaft and crankshaft position sensors in the last 4 months due to another problem. Really need some help on this as I'm really confused. Forgot to mention that I swapped out the fuel pump relay and ASD relay yesterday. Really strange that it quit so fast today as it was only 5 minutes of driving and I hadn't even warmed the car up just came out started it up and left where the other incidents took place after about an hour and half of driving the car both times. I also swapped the black ignition module box and installed new spark plugs over the weekend. I'm really desperate as I'm unemployed and this is our only car and we need it as we drive my son to school as he can't ride the bus. Thanks in advance to anyone who tries to help. There are no codes being thrown when scanned and the check engine light has never come on and the car runs perfect when running and then it just quits
 
  #2  
Old 02-08-2010, 03:57 PM
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Crud, case in point for annoying problems and throwing parts at them. This will probably **** you off if I'm right, cause its possibly something very simple. Have you checked your fuel filter ? I'm not sure on your model where its located haven't worked on many of the cloud models. Later models often had them near the fuel pump. Gremlin problems are nightmares cause if it was consistent you could have a pressure gauge on your fuel rail and eliminate things like the pump (which it could also be). Check in your trunk area under or around the spare tire for the hatch to access your fuel pump (pray you have this or it means removing your fuel tank). Your filter can be bypassed with a piece of small diameter metal pipe usually about 1/4 inch. Two VERY important things here ONE use metal NOT PLASTIC unless you know the plastic is fuel safe, or you could be in for plastic spaghetti being fished out of your injectors. TWO don't leave that pipe there for any length of time your injectors have ports too small to see and what you think is clear fuel might be full of injector clogging goodness.

OH DUH, something else just occurred to me, when was the last time you put a bottle of injector cleaner into the tank ? It's one of the few things both the manufactures and aftermarket guys agree on.
 
  #3  
Old 03-07-2010, 08:19 PM
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As if this car problem isn't bad enough, I was in the hospital for 3 weeks and now I'm just getting back to trying to fix this car. I checked the fuel pressure and it's fine as I checked it while the car was running and when it stalled out and wouldn't re-start the readings were the same at right around 55. You can hear the fuel pump everytime you turn the key so I assume the fuel pump is okay. I changed the fuel filter about 2 1/2 years ago and have put 25,000 miles on it since. Do you think I should install another one to be safe?
 
  #4  
Old 03-08-2010, 04:29 PM
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Thats a pain I can relate too. My Mother has been in the ICU here for a year plus now... If you have a pressure test at the fuel rail your above where I though you were in the diagnostics of this car. Two things come to mind fuel filters can get plugged with a single tank of bad gas, river water for off roaders or the like can kill a new filter in one day. Pressure and flow aren't always the same its reading about correct for the pressure however the flow may be insignificant. How good is the pressure tester and can you get someone eltse to try starting while you watch ? It should drop off suddenly if the issue is there.

Another recent car repair had me reconsider the automobile as a repair platform. An engine for all its computers etc only needs fuel, rotation and a hot spark to at least turn over once or twice. Dying suddenly is either fuel stoppage, or the spark isn't firing. The how for the above has many reasons. But I've now started gremlin diags with a hookup to a high voltage probe and a scope just cause I've recently had a bad run with computer modules.
 
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