Have 2006 Sebring Convertible 2.7 with 109,000. Sudden overheat, but I caught it before it got crazy hot (could use some kind of audio warning rather than just the light, also could use low coolant indicator). Appeared to be leakage at or near the water outlet with the 3 hoses on it at the top of the engine. Just while evaluating it the top hose barb snapped off in my hand, so I knew it was getting replaced. Almost bought another plastic one, but then found a metal version at a good price. Seemed a lot better deal than the plastic. Then after I got the old (plastic) one off, I could see it had probably been gradually leaking from a seam where two pieces of it had been "welded" together. It came completely in half with just a bit of a twist. Insane.

So then I get the new one on and refill coolant, and the heat guage goes to about halfway and holds for awhile, then goes full hot. Now what? Maybe my overheat started with a stuck thermostat? So I think it'd be good to change it out anyway as I don't know its history, could be original still. Seemed like a nightmare at first in having to remove front wheel and plastic shielding to get to the serp belt for removing alt to get at the t-stat housing (I'm a Ford guy- OLD Fords, and new to both Chrysler and something this new). But it actually went well, until I tried to install the replacement t-stat.

With gasket on it, it didn't want to go into the plastic housing. Trying to force it would dislodge the t-stat out of its gasket. On close inspection, I saw that the t-stat metal flange was stamped around its perimeter (like you see on lots of t-stats), while the one I had removed (apparently original) was completely flat. The stamping was causing the gasket to be held at an angle rather than straight out, and that was keeping it from seating in the housing. Back to the parts store, they didn't have anything else. Others didn't either, so I got a different one to try again, and still no-go. I ended up hammering the stamping flat around the perimeter, but then when I went to install it still wouldn't go because it was now too big in diameter since flattening the stamping had increased the diameter slightly. So then I took off 1/32" all around on a bench grinder and put the gasket back on, and it fit perfectly. I couldn't on brief search find anything on this issue. Apparently the parts houses are specifying a generic that "works" across a wider range of applications, but it sure didn't work for me! In addition to the perimeter stamping, the water passage is actually a bit smaller than my original. Anyone heard of this as an issue?

So anyway, my problems aren't over yet. I get it refilled, fire it up, and same thing- heat guage goes past H in short order without explanation. Heater working great, which should indicate the water pump's working. Another new issue has now cropped up as well, hard start from cold, so I'm thinking the worst, like a head gasket. But as I continue to work with it, it doesn't seem to actually be overheating- the only real anomaly is the high guage reading. So I got a code scanner and one of the codes was P0118 indicating high coolant temp scale. OK, here's the thing- that new water outlet I started with came with a temp sensor installed already, so I had just plugged the harness back into that. I went and got my old plastic outlet and got the old sensor out of that the housing just crumbled at that point) and swapped it for the new one, and no more high heat guage. Perfect.

But wow, I thought it was getting bad dealing with parts houses for older stuff than this, but maybe with 21st century cars it's not that much better. Lack of attention to detail and quality can cause people real goose chases.

 

Welcome to the world of cheap knockoffs. One of the reasons I go with OEM/mopar parts. More expensive but better quality and reliability in my experience.

 

at least when it comes to sensors.

 

Don't you need to re-bleed the air after pouring more coolant in the second time?





Tutuapp 9Apps

 

The 2.7l is self-bleeding but the coolant level in the reservoir needs to be monitored for a week or so.