Hi everyone. A couple of months ago I said I was having trouble removing a transmission pan in an '04 Sebring with the 2.7L engine.
I finally got it off yesterday and replaced my filter, and replaced the pan using Permatex Ultra Black silicone sealer. I was barely done tightening it when I noticed it started leaking fluid at the end towards the back of the car.
I didn't even put the new fluid in yet! It seems there was still old fluid dripping down from inside the transmisson and it must of undermined the RTV before it had a chance to dry and cure.
I took off the pan, and saw it still dripping. I figured I would wait until the next day to try again, and that that fluid would stop draining down by then. So today I cleaned everything and started again. I saw a little fluid near the back end, but it was only a small drop every 5 minutes, I figured would put the pan back on. Well it leaked through again.
How long should it take for that fluid to stopp draining down? It must have been sitting 18HRs since I first emptied it. I tried to keep the car as level as possible using ramps on a downhill drive way. The surface around the bottom of the transmission and the pan has no problems with it.
Has anyone had this problem or any suggestions? I did turn the engine on for a couple of seconds to see if that would push any more fluid out quickly.

 

There is another thing I wanted to ask when using this sealer. I was putting it together while it was still wet because thats what I read in a PDF instruction file on the Permatex Wesite. It was too big to upload. Does anyone have other recomendations, such as letting it dry for about 15 minutes first?

 

Here's a suggestion for getting the pan back on quickly without smearing up your sealant material. Buy 3 screws (they are metric sizes) like the screws that hold the pan in place, but maybe a little longer and three corresponding nuts. Cut the heads off the screws and thread them in three holes in the transmission spaced around the pan only finger tight. Use the "studs" as guides to accurately place the pan in position and hold it in place with the nuts finger tight. Place the remaining screws in their corresponding holes and tighten them about 1/3 of the final tightness. Pull out the "studs" and replace them with proper screws. Tighten all the screws to about 2/3rds final tightness, then tighten all to final spec (165 in-lbs). The idea is to not tighten too much in one spot to squeeze out the sealant there or warp the pan.
This way, you can put the sealant on the pan where dripping on the trans case shouldn't wash it off.
Following the sealant manufacturer's recommendation is the best way to go.

 

Hi dcotter0579, I wanted to thank you for your suggestion, but when I took the pan off again yesterday there was STILL a slow drip of fluid coming from inside the transmission that would sit along the back mounting surface. I did not want to chance using RTV again and having it be "eaten up" by the fluid coming from up inside the transmission. It was also a pain removing the pan, and then having to clean off all of the residue of the gasket material. I got one of those pre-formed rubber-like gaskets. I put it on with nothing else. The bolts were held by the gasket before attaching it and they kept the gasket in place while I tightened it. I filled it up with fluid immediately and there were no leaks. The car ran great.
This morning, I looked under the car and the pan was still dry.
I never had this trouble before using RTV gaskets, but now I know, that the area has to be free from these fluids long enough for the material to dry.

 

Thanks for coming back and reporting your success.

 

FYI use Chrysler RTV the black stuff u wont have any of the issues U have said.

 

Hello there buddy...Is this done? No issues already? I also learned a lot from Mr dcotter0579. I had similar issues on my car 2 weeks ago and I just followed his instructions.

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BrandonP.
AT Pan Gasket