I bought this car a month ago as a fixer upper. It started and ran but was sold due to overheating. I ran it to test it and Maybe got it to hot? I did the water pump anyway figuring I'd fix whatever was damaged if I got it to hot. Now it wont idle, live data shows fuel system A ol fault, bank one 02 sensors are reading 1.67 with no change, stft 99.2 % its throwing a random misfire code intermittently. And o2 b1s2 circuit High. But it was doing none of that before the repair. Also intermittently the abs and traction control lights will stay on when I run it.

 

wrong timing. vac leak intake gasket leak unplugged o2 sensors

 

I found the no idle issue, I noticed it was a limp mode type condition, it would not rev beyond 3k, upon inspecting my cooling system I found the radiator fan unplugged. That was preventing it from idling. Still runs rough. Regarding the timing, I didnt take it apart properly so now Idk where my pulleys were originally, reset it on the Mark's but its acting a bit off, on a 200000 mile motor mind u. How do I get it right from this point?

 

Limp in mode is for the transmission not engine. unplugged rad fan is just for the cooling not for the codes for the 02 sensor 3 k limit is normal when at idle engineers think why does someone need to rev an engine sitting still not in gear more then 3k? they don't.
Take apart the timing again make sure the marks are aligned. get a manual and look for the marks and locations.

 

Interesting...... thank you for your time in response, so....... I've been to school, I went for transmission repair and took ASE, I'm being kinda lazy and i know it asking for answers when I Know what do to. Read the manual, apply my training, be meticulous and patient, test every component in each system affected. I got the limp mode idea from another post. Listen to what it's done. From the beginning, it ran and drove when I bought it, I foolishly didnt manually test the cooling system, the man said he was sure a hose was leaking coolant, I expected water pump as I bought it. I drove it a little and it got hot, after I parked it it ran rougher but not to bad. I changed the parts and it wouldn't idle at all, I tried a Bunch of stuff, re set the timing, I know where the Mark's are, I think my error was in buying a Dayco pump cuz that belt and pump combo Would Not allow the Mark's to meet, I've had this thing apart 5 times. Atm its throwing no codes but I'm getting intermittently lit dask indicators and a sometimes flashing battery light. And I PROMISE it didnt idle for 10 days and ever since I plugged that fan in it started idling...... sometimes. And I do get the point on the rev limit, but it WILL rev past 3k sometimes, when its idling it'll sometimes rev a bit, maybe pick up a few hundred rpm and hold it a few seconds then essentially back down. Now listen i know for Sure I'm going to replace the head gasket and all the seals, I like the car and I've got plenty to learn so I'm going to build it, I figured Maybe it's a Thing with them and maybe someone knew. First startup today it did the flashing battery light right away, first time it's done That. My battery is new, my alternator is putting out 14.5. Its interesting for sure. I do appreciate your your time and expertise.

 

how bad did you over heat the engine? A head gasket dies not cause issues a warped head causes issues. Get your new head gasket set take a look at it. Its called a MLS Multi Layer Steel gasket 3 layers of steel. Follow me? Now what do you think the odds of an engine only making at tops 160 psi of compression can break past 3 layers of steel? It wont happen. So what happens the heads warp bigger then the 10/32 of and inch that the gaskets can hand. and then pushes the coolant out causing low coolant then causing misfires rough idle all sorts of stuff. Plus When you get into drivability ASE stuff there are A codes and B codes A codes will turn the check engine light on instantly with just a key on like an unplugged map or tps sensor. B codes after the car has warmed up learned its adaptive numerator and gone through the emissions tests a B code will pop up. like a misfire o2 sensor code things like that.

 

I myself didnt overheat it to the point of head warping, I had a 300m and learned with it about these motors so as soon as the needle jumped above half on the upward trend I pulled it over. However upon inspection it's clear it was overheated before. It didnt run bad until after I got it hot though. I believe the intake gasket gave up the ghost on that one, i replaced it and it idles now. But I'm getting a flashing lightening bolt indicator light intermittently. I cleaned all the grounds I can find, I cant find any grounds on the exhaust sides of the motor. Only on the motor mount on the belt side and the ones bolted to the wheel well. My odometer was pulsing before I cleaned the grounds now its steady but my radio display still does it.