Alternator not charging
I have a 2002 sebring convertible ... Vin 1c3el65r42n305857... Had 2 alternators put on... Installed an ecm programmed for the car..tried a jumper with a fusible link from alternator to battery jumper post.. Nothing helped... I'm told the alternator has a built in regulator... I assume the alternator is not getting signal or voltage to tell it to go into charge mode.... Could it be a fuse or relay.... If so which one... Ive already invested a fortune on this adventure and at 85 and a retired broadcast engineer i'm getting frustrated (maybe pour gas on it and light a match???? Lol)
thanks... New member
jim newbanks
springfield, il
thanks... New member
jim newbanks
springfield, il
What are the issues you are having? Does the battery lamp light and if so, does it light immediately? Has the charging system and battery been professionally tested? Quick, but not thorough, test - what is the resting voltage of the battery after an overnight charge (30 minutes after charger disconnected to allow surface charge to dissipate) and voltage with the engine running? Looking for 12.2+ volts at rest (12.4+ is better) and over 14+ volts when running.
If 2 alternators and an ECM have not resolved the issue, it sounds to me the issue is not being diagnosed properly. The voltage regulator is in the ECM and not in the alternator so that is a bit of misinformation. While the voltage regulator in the ECM can fail, it is rare in my experience and should one of the last parts to be replaced. I suspect the original ECM was good.
Has the field control wire from the ECM to the alternator been checked for corrosion or breaks? If 12 volts is applied to the field control wire with the engine running the output voltage should spike to 15-16 volts (max alternator output). This should be only be done briefly as the sustained higher voltages can damage some of the computer/control modules. Are the engine grounds in place and secure/corrosion-free? Solid grounds are necessary for the alternator to function properly.
What is the age/condition of the battery? Are the battery cables/connections secure and corrosion free (both ends)?
If 2 alternators and an ECM have not resolved the issue, it sounds to me the issue is not being diagnosed properly. The voltage regulator is in the ECM and not in the alternator so that is a bit of misinformation. While the voltage regulator in the ECM can fail, it is rare in my experience and should one of the last parts to be replaced. I suspect the original ECM was good.
Has the field control wire from the ECM to the alternator been checked for corrosion or breaks? If 12 volts is applied to the field control wire with the engine running the output voltage should spike to 15-16 volts (max alternator output). This should be only be done briefly as the sustained higher voltages can damage some of the computer/control modules. Are the engine grounds in place and secure/corrosion-free? Solid grounds are necessary for the alternator to function properly.
What is the age/condition of the battery? Are the battery cables/connections secure and corrosion free (both ends)?
Ggoose.... Thanks for your reply... Im 85 and my wife is handicapped and has had a couple of bad days so i haven't been able to follow up sooner....
First the battery is in the fender well but if i keep it charged with my battery charger ... The car starts fine... Battery corrosion is unlikely.. Ps the old car has only 88000 miles on it or i would junk it... And i put a new top on a couple of yr ago... Call me crazy...
I don't know how to find the wire you told me to try putting 12 volts on with a jumper... Alternator is not very accessible and ecm has 2 big plugs ... I sure wouldnt want to to that at the ecm or i could screw up more.... Noone answered about whether it could be a fuse or relay ... If that is a possibility which one ... I could look for the fuse layout in the book... But are the relays all the same ??? I could try swapping one if they were are identical...
Sorry for all of this but sick wife comes first..
Best regards,
jim
First the battery is in the fender well but if i keep it charged with my battery charger ... The car starts fine... Battery corrosion is unlikely.. Ps the old car has only 88000 miles on it or i would junk it... And i put a new top on a couple of yr ago... Call me crazy...
I don't know how to find the wire you told me to try putting 12 volts on with a jumper... Alternator is not very accessible and ecm has 2 big plugs ... I sure wouldnt want to to that at the ecm or i could screw up more.... Noone answered about whether it could be a fuse or relay ... If that is a possibility which one ... I could look for the fuse layout in the book... But are the relays all the same ??? I could try swapping one if they were are identical...
Sorry for all of this but sick wife comes first..
Best regards,
jim
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