Newbe here and just bought a beautiful 1978 restored 2 door LaBaron. Having problems keeping the ignition module alive. Previous owner said he changed 3. I just went thru ny 2nd.
Thinking of going to points! Engine is a 318. I have been a GM guy and mechanic for years, but the lines on this car are beautiful and I want to make a driver out of it as engine, trans, paint, Exhaust, interior, and accesories are all new.

Dom

 

Hi, welcome. Problems with the ignition modules are usually caused by poor connections. Low quality aftermarket modules are even more susceptible to poor connections. First connection to fix is the ground. The ground is the metal case of the module to the firewall. Clean up this connection on both sides with a wire brush or sandpaper, then seal it from the elements. Next area is the 5-pn plug. I roll up sandpaper tight and twist it inside the connectors to clean them on the plug side. Clean the pins on the module side too. Seal this set of connections up as well. Then clean the connections on the coil, distributor, ballast resistor, ignition switch and any intermediate connectors in between. If any of the female connectors seem a bit loose, then they can be squeezed tighter using pliers, but put a small nail in so you don't over do it.

Check the charging system for proper voltage and check for bad rectifier diodes.

 

Thanks,
I am going to give it 1 more try that. My son did most of the restoration in his shop. He did all the mechanical and it runs great. My shop has Corvettes and airplanes. My son was shot 5 times by a burgler and still has a bullet in his brain and is paralized on one side so he is unable to work. He said he also thought it was a ground, but I thought the ground might be one of the pins. Now that you cleared that up I will give it another module. One module that they sold me only had 4 pins and when it went they got me the 5 pin. Makes sense about the ground because the engine compartment was painted.
Thanks for the help.

Dom

 

I forgot about later 4 vs early 5 pin. The 5 pin requires the dual ballast resistor. The 4 pin has the 2nd resistor built in and can be used in either setup. The 5 pin requires a little rewiring with the dual ballast in a car that had the 4 pin from the factory. I'm pretty sure a '78 would have the 4 pin from the factory so unless it was changed, the 5 pin would not work.

A couple options you might consider: 1) I have heard of GM HEI module conversions done on Mopars. It sounds like you might feel a little more familiar with this option. 2) There are self contained electronic distributors available which seem to be a fairly easy installation and reasonably priced.

I know points sound nice and simple. I think it is mostly nostalgia clouding our memory of point ignition maintenance. Don't forget that changes may have been made in production on the engines since the last factory point setup which may require tweaking the mechanical advance curve. The availability of the different springs and weights to make the engine purr may take some work tracking them down. It just might be the kind of project you are looking for though.

Sorry to hear about your son.

 

Well,
Got the 4 pin on after re-testing the 5 pin that was bad, and I got a start. I used SS star washers on the back and under the bolt head. Going to clean up the work and test the voltage. Again thanks for the help. Also found that they had a better module for 1/3 price more (Standard) so that's what I bought. Ballast was good and I used dialetric on the connector after working it over. All was actually clean.

Dom

 

Stainless steel can cause carbon steel to corrode faster. I would just clean up the firewall where the bolts go in with a wire wheel and the back side of the ears on the ignition module. Use fresh bolts with galvanized lock washers under the bolt heads only. Then I would paint the bolts and around the edge of the ears with brush on paint. I live where road salt and brine is used heavily.

 

Did the bare metal wire brush on all surfaces and used a oil based bat protector. I used to live in the mid west and washed the salt off all winter. Know what you mean. Tested voltage and it's higher than I like 15.30 at idle and 15.36 at cruising RPM. Seems high to me Sitting voltage was 13.25. With adjustable regulators I never went over 14.2 and usually around 13.6 to 13.8. Battery is new and I did the recomended charge that usually gets skipped.
Here in Palm Springs batteries have a short life. It's about 120 F out there and leaving a car out means that you can't touch anything metal and other than cloth seats, will burn your butt unless you put a towell down.
Sealed batteries do a bit better here. Forgot how strong the 318 was.

Dom

 

The voltage regulator module grounds through it's base too. Clean up it's ground connection to see if the high voltage will come down.

 

Yes, a good idea. I will do the trick on it. This car was in Europe for 2 engines. Owner let soldiers use it and they burnt ut engines! Finally he put it on a airplane and sent it back home. The car meant a bunch to him and he wanted it to be new again. He is failing and I just could not see the car go away. He is happy now that it is with a friend. I gave him a decent offer and he has yet to collect it. The virus has haulted most every thing but the shop rent.

Dom