Got 4 new Michelin's put on 2007 Pacifica, 6 months later had a safety done. Everything passed with flying colours. This spring decided to sell and buy truck, rear tires were worn bald on the inside of each tire. Came onto this thread, saw it may need something as simple as realignment. Took to a reputable dealer in town, waited 90 minutes and was told that both rear camber links had worn bushings, both rear tension links had worn bushings, rear sub frame has to be removed to change these parts and it was going to cost $3,000. I told them to put my $600 worth of tires in back and when I scrape up $3,000 I may be back. It's been awhile since I worked in a garage but I don't remember bushings wearing out that fast. AWD Touring with just over 100,000 miles on it. Looking for some advice or have you had the same problem.

 

has anyone gotten rid of the rear wheel tilt by replacing the lower control arm (it's the arm that the shock attaches to and the spring is seated within.) and the inner bushing. it looks like the inner bushing is a slip out and the outer bushing is a push out. Iogically bad/soft/broken rubber bushings within this piece and/or the upper control arm or the only things that can cause it to tilt. I replaced the upper and it still tilts but I was hoping for some confirmation before I spent more money and time. Initial inspection under load is difficult to confirm they are bad but it's not easy to get a good visual on them. thanks. Jim

 

I will say that the lower control arm replacement part is a labeled on Rockauto as a popular item over all other suspension parts and the inner bushing is currently the ONLY suspension item that is out of stock so that may be a good sign that it is the culprit. thanks again. Jim

 

They have rear camber alignment bushings for Pacifica at suspension.com

 

Well my wife totaled the one I had with the rear wheel problem, but I've had 2 more Pacificas since and still have one. The bushings in the rear are likely the problem if you have a camber issue. There is no camber adjustment in the rear, and I doubt worn spring bushings would do it. Possibly wheel bearings could affect the camber, but most likely it's bushings. You must go to an alignment shop that will check all the wheels. Many won't even look at theRear wheels and charge you for a 4 wheel alignment. Any good alignment guy should be able to find out what's going on, but do some research on the shop. I took one into a frame and alignment shop once and they put the cam bolts in the front struts in the wrong holes. I had to argue with some smart *** who insisted he knew what he was doing. Luckily I had the instructions with the cam bolts and proved to him that he put them in the wrong holes, so it comes down to the guy who does the alignment. Make sure you go to a shop that does frame and alignment work only, unless you know of a good alignment guy. Make sure you have a almost full tank of gas too. These vehicles are known to go through front end parts quite often and lower control arms as well. I have not seen different alignment specs for 17 or 19 inch wheels. The tires for both have the same circumference So it shouldn't matter what size rims you have. Just get to a reputable shop and make sure they check everything out at both ends of the car

 

well right now I just want to eliminate the inward tilt of the right rear tire. It's a car I bought to fix and resell for some extra money so I want to keep the cost down as much as possible. the wheel is definitely tilting in from the top NOT in from the front and you don't see it when the car is off the ground. also, there does not seem to be any grinding or play in the wheel so I am not sure it's the wheel bearing. Logically there are two suspension peices that keep that wheel level. one is the upper control arm (just replaced it) and the other is the lower control arm. The lower control arm and bushing is $100 and I can replace them in 2 -3 hours. The inner bushing looks ok under weight but I can't get a visual on the outer one while it's under a load. any more thoughts?

 

If the wheel has no play at all in it then I would assume the bearing is OK. I would think the bearing would be completely shot to make a wheel tilt that much. If you can only see it when the car is on the ground, I would think that it has to be a bushing because there is no camber adjustment. I assume you've examined the spring for a break. Just a shot in the dark, but have you tried putting a different wheel on it to see if it does the same thing? Gramps down below says that camber bushings are available. I have to believe that it's a bushing compressing under load. At this point in time they are getting old, and a bushing doesn't always show when it's split or worn just by looking at it, especially when the load is taken off the bushing. Have you tried comparing the physical appearance of the bushings on both sides when the car is on the ground? Check all the link bushings. If the wheel is good I would have to think that it's a bushing..Do you know if the vehicle has ever been in a wreck on that side??? I'm no expert on the rear suspension, however I've done enough front end work to consider myself an expert on these damn things and I'm getting pretty good at replacing the motor mounts too! I'm on my 3'rd Pacifica now. I actually rigged up a cable to limit the engine twist to keep the front mount from blowing apart. It's been on for a couple years now which is about the longest it's gone without blowing the front mount. But good luck with the rear wheel. Please let us know when you figure out whats causing it.

 

Thank you for this feedback. It is very helpful! No wrecks. All parts look original and unbent and no gouges on any metal underneath. physical appearance looks the same under load or not though I cannot see the one embedded inside the hub area, which I suspect is the one most likely to buckle under the load. I may remove the brake rotor tonight and inspect it further. I have also switched wheels and the same tilt stays.spring is good... no breaks. it's got a 196k and, assuming bushing are original, they must be tired as you say... it's just finding the worst of them I am finding difficult.... I think it's like the weakest link that, once it weakens, it takes the brunt of the stress and essentially relieves the pressure on the others... stay tuned.

 

 

Taking the rotor off will only expose the hub/bearing assy. I don't think you'll see anything there but like I said I'm no expert. Have you checked the shaft that goes from the rear end diff to the wheel hub? Is this a 4 wheel drive Pacifica? I don't know if the CV joint might cause that? Diff bearing? Shock bushings? I assume it has the load leveler shocks? Any visible oil leakage around it? If you HAVE to end up replacing them, I don't think you absolutely must use the expensive load leveler type. I believe there are standard shocks available that you could use on it. I have a dealer service manual for an 08 Pacifica that consists of 4 books that are all 2 inches thick covering everything from wheel size to wiring diagrams and everything in between. All the chassis are the same for all of them. The only difference is the engine size and trans that were used in 08. I'll take a look and see what it says regarding the rear wheel alignment. Kind of busy today but I'll get back to you if I find anything that might be helpful. With close to 200K on it, I would replace the wheel bearings on it anyway. I've done all 4 on my first Pacifica. It's not all that hard with the right tools and hopefully they aren't corroded so badly that you'll need a sledge hammer to shake them loose. Up here in central NY where there is salt on the road for 5 or 6 months out of the year, they do get that bad and I've worked on some GM vehicle hubs that you had to beat for hours to get loose (and this is after heating them up as much as possible).