Hi Sandra, Did they fix it like Razy pointed out here or did they put the same type of harness back in that failed before?

 

I am so glad I found this forum. I have a 2005 pacifica that we bought brand new in 2007. For the last 4 months I have had the flickering lights on the dash, the brake and ABS light flashing on and off, dings and bells going off after the seatbelts were one. The car stalled while driving. It was sluggish, etc. I went to the dealership in our area and they tested the battery and it was fine. They told me to clean off the corrosion on the positive batter post. It was covered with it. So I cleaned it off and the corrosion came back the following week. Each time I cleaned it off it fixed the flashing lights temporarily. Each day it got worse. The dealership didn't know what to do as I took it back again. I went to 2 other auto repair places where I had work done before and they were stumped. It kept getting worse and worse where it only took about 45 seconds of driving before the flashing started. So today I decided to take matters into my own hands.

A couple of years ago I needed to change a light bulb on the pacifica and there was no info on how to do it. So I made a video and put on youtube. Since then there are over 20,000 views from people trying to figure it out. So I was thinking that someone else had to have this same problem and they might have posted a fix. Today I heaven shined on me and I found this forum and the thread with the solution.

So I went to walmart and bought the cables. I got two so I could add the additional ground. Took about 30 minutes to put in and presto. I took it for a test drive and NO MORE FLASHING LIGHTS. OMG what is wrong with the DEALERSHIPS???? How can they not know about this problem. I'm taking mine up there to show them what I did. Thank you to RANZY for the original fix and all those that confirmed that it worked.

If any of you need to change your light bulbs on the pacifica, here is the video link.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZO8vbFlpQh8

 

Thank you so much Ranzy,
I had all the symptoms with my recently acquired 2007 Chrysler Pacifica that most of you had the flickering dash lights, the stalling at low speeds, and speakers popping with static. I was almost at the point of taking my vehicle into the dealer to risk wasting hundreds of dollars for nothing but decided to try the fix as a last resort.

With the aid of the great pix I was able to completed the fix in 20 min. I have now been "fixed" for two month now with no problems. I finally can allow my wife to drive the care without concern!! I will post in a couple of months to report back of my status.

 

Hey Renzy or any one out there.
I have a problem with my AC blowing war air in this hot semmer.I take it to dealer,and the recharge the AC, but still blowing a warm air.They said they need to replace the PCM,but also still blowing a warm air,then said they want to replace the expension valve,but still blowing warm air.$ 800.00 I spend with no AC fix.so I picked my car,and when I got home my engine light came pn also the oile light came on,and the speed dimeter stop working.I take it back and they fix the speed dimeter,and the engine light when off,but not the oile light.The funy about the oile light that if I start the car the light will stay on,but if I turn the car off,and start the car again the light goes off.I change the oile at walmart about three weeks before I take the car to the dealer for the AC.
Please help me if you know whay my AC still blowing a warm air after replacing all these part? Now the dealer want to replace the control switch?

Also what you think about the oile light keeps coming on and off?

Thanks for the help.

 

didnt try the bypass instead we cracked the black end open. looks like the plastic is melting into the wire. we chipped away what we could then soudered it back to terminal conector. worked for a week but are experiencing same problem. trying the bypass tommorow if it works it may mean that that wire just cant hold the load one mechanic said the wire was running too hot. fingers crossed oterwise ill just trade the dang thing in.

 

Here are Ranzys photos I went ahead and got the photos for you today. I kind of wanted to wait to see if it was fixed before I got in there and started unhooking anything but I figured what could it hurt.

This is an over view of the battery area of my Pacifica.


Those are the ground wires that I added first when I thought it was a bad ground connection. I plan to leave them there because it won't hurt anything.

REMOVE YOUR BATTERY BEFORE YOU START THIS PROJECT. YOU KIND OF HAVE TO JUST TO GET TO THE BOTTOM OF THE FUSE BOX ANYWAY, BUT EVEN IF YOU THINK YOU CAN GET TO IT WITHOUT REMOVING IT, DON'T DO IT. JUST REMOVE YOUR BATTERY! OK.

After you remove your battery you can see that the fuse box is hinged so that you can flip it over and get at the bottom.


Between the fuse box and the fender you will see the two levers to unlatch and flip the box over.


Here is a view of the box flipped over.


That black wire is what I added to the wiring harness. They did not have it in red at my Wal-Mart but I didn't care. It's a 4 gage wire, so it could carry the load even if I removed the factory wire all together. It is just a lawn and garden cable from Wal-Mart for about $4.00. Here is a closer look at the connection I made. I know it was not just a bad connection to the fuse box becaue I had already taken that connector off once during my trouble shooting and cleaned the connector with a wire brush and applied DeoxIT to the power connector and the plate that it bolts to on the fuse box.


Here are the two wires removed from the connector. You will have to bend the connector like that but it is easy to do.


Look at where the red wire goes into the black plastic cover for the connector. That is where I was able to just pull a little and it slipped out of the plastic. That is when I really knew it was bad. Try to pull on the wires at the other end and you will see that you can't budge them. Here it is really close up.


Here are the rest of my connections so that you can see exactly what I did. I did not remove any factory wiring. You can make the repair for less than $4.00 and you do not have to remove the covers from the wire harness to make this repair. I only did it to confirm that the wire from the battery really goes from the battery straight to the fuse box. If it made any other connections on the way, that could have been the problem, so I just wanted to make sure before I just added a wire to the fuse box. That is the other end of the black wire I added to the harness and you can see that it is easy to install onto the battery.


Here you can see where I attached the wire for the new connection to the body and engine.


If you want to do this one, I just took off one of the nuts for the strut mount and scrapped off the paint to make a good connection to the body. I tested the connection by removing the factroy ground wire and starting the car and turning on everything I could think of on the car. It worked just fine. The second wire just goes down to the bottom of the engine. I just removed a bolt from the engine that I had easy access to and bolted the wire to the engine.


I hope this helps some people out. I have never posted a fix to a forum before but I have sure read some. I really appreciate it when there are good photos to help me out, so I tried to post it like I would want if I found this post. Since you have to remove the battery to get in there and do the repair I did not have to stress this so hard. Electrical problems can be a nightmare but I think this is the fix. We drove the car a few times today and it was still solid as a rock.

Believe me, if this is not the answer then I will follow up and let you know. After all this ranting and a big write-up I hope I don't have to eat my words. But I don'twant to waste anybody's time replacing a wire if it didn't really fix my problem.

Ranzy[/quote]

 

This fix has been going strong for me for at least two years now. I did, however, do two things differently. I actually removed the power lead on both ends and only use the the new wire to provide power. I also did not place the additional ground wire because its not needed. I'd be very careful when using the strut mounting bolt for the ground wire also.

Otherwise this is a great fix and has resolved my problem with the vehicle. I'm even debating getting a custom battery terminal like the folks who put in stereo systems use so I can have a custom terminal with the wires running into without without the extra stuff bolted on top.

 

I wish I had found this sooner. I bought my 06 Pacifica in Oct 2010. I test drove it for 2 days and the ABS/Brake light came on. I noticed the flickering but didn't think much of it. I took the car back to the shop, they replaced the ABS computer. They showed me the $800 receipt, so I bought the car on the spot. I didn't get to the first traffic light before it came back on. Figured, it needs time to reset.

They sold me the $2,000 warranty that fixes EVERYTHING, with no deductible at all. So I bring the car in December, cause it's driving me nuts. They want $100 deductible! They LIED! So I said, "I'll wait till after Xmas". The problems gets worse, now the radio popping & turning off. The door locks are spontaniously locking/unlocking like crazy. Then the motor dies 3 times. All the while your driving down the road with DING DING Flicker Flicker DING DING.

I bring the car back in Feb, ready to spend money fixing the car they sold me "as is". They refer me to the Dodge dealer. I can't get a rental car, so my kids don't go to school and we don't go to work. You can't get a rental car under your warranty until they "diagnose" the problem. And if they do diagnose the problem it has to be covered under the warranty. Dodge has the car for 2 days. They pull it to the computer and there is nothing wrong with it. So I found this article and showed it to them. They said they couldn't do what was described in this post. And suggest a $3,000 wiring harness, which is not covered under my warranty. I pay $180 diagnose fee, to be told there is nothing wrong with my car.

I run to the auto parts store, bought a red 30" cable 4 gauge wire for $5. Pop the hood, piggy back the cable, shut the hood... 20 minutes and I'm not mechanically inclined at all. The car has not acted up once since I installed the piggy back cable. I can't believe I paid someone $180 to tell me there is nothing wrong with my car. They looked at me like I was crazy!

 

chipping out the plastic didnt work for long. so we piggy backed worked like a charm. still flickers when everything is running but very faintly. leads me to believe its a grounding wire somewhere. same thing happens in your house if a squirle chews through your grounding wire happens to us all the time. anyways the fix does work and cheaper than trading it in at a loss.

 

We were having the same problem with the lights on our 2005 Chrysler Pacifica. My ABS light has also been on ever since I drove the car away from the rip off Low Book Sales dealership(I think it was the next day)
With the flickering problem and cracking etc... I found this forum and read all the post, I was quit pleased to find the answer to my problem. Instead of replacing the entire harness we just replaced the end of the harness that connects to the battery post and it has been just fine now for the last 3 weeks with no more flickering lights. But I am having a problem with my windows working at random. Sometimes the back passenger window will not go down and other times it will. Now my drivers side window won't go down at all, ever. I hear a clicking noise coming from the door panel when the key is on and the whole time I am driving. Does any one have any idea what that is?