Car stalling after battery change
#11
07-31-2014, 04:39 PM
Look the prime suspects are :
- Faulty Camshaft Position Sensor
- Camshaft Position Sensor harness is open or shorted
- Camshaft Position Sensor circuit poor electrical connection
- Faulty starter motor
- Starting system circuit
- Dead (Weak) battery
- - - we can add to the above list potential dirty fuel issues
You / they have just had the battery off and driven for 6 minutes. So of the above my chosen 1st stop is the battery. Did you as tfb said check the battery poles are tight - don't rely on anyone else - take them off completely, give em a smear with Vaseline, emery cloth the inside of the pole clamps and after 15 minutes re-clamp the battery. That will also reboot your computer and perform the usual checks on your communication system. What happens now ?
Best of luck !
- Faulty Camshaft Position Sensor
- Camshaft Position Sensor harness is open or shorted
- Camshaft Position Sensor circuit poor electrical connection
- Faulty starter motor
- Starting system circuit
- Dead (Weak) battery
- - - we can add to the above list potential dirty fuel issues
You / they have just had the battery off and driven for 6 minutes. So of the above my chosen 1st stop is the battery. Did you as tfb said check the battery poles are tight - don't rely on anyone else - take them off completely, give em a smear with Vaseline, emery cloth the inside of the pole clamps and after 15 minutes re-clamp the battery. That will also reboot your computer and perform the usual checks on your communication system. What happens now ?
Best of luck !
#12
07-31-2014, 05:38 PM
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Livingston, Scotland
Posts: 307
Look the prime suspects are :
- Faulty Camshaft Position Sensor
- Camshaft Position Sensor harness is open or shorted
- Camshaft Position Sensor circuit poor electrical connection
- Faulty starter motor
- Starting system circuit
- Dead (Weak) battery
- - - we can add to the above list potential dirty fuel issues
You / they have just had the battery off and driven for 6 minutes. So of the above my chosen 1st stop is the battery. Did you as tfb said check the battery poles are tight - don't rely on anyone else - take them off completely, give em a smear with Vaseline, emery cloth the inside of the pole clamps and after 15 minutes re-clamp the battery. That will also reboot your computer and perform the usual checks on your communication system. What happens now ?
Best of luck !
- Faulty Camshaft Position Sensor
- Camshaft Position Sensor harness is open or shorted
- Camshaft Position Sensor circuit poor electrical connection
- Faulty starter motor
- Starting system circuit
- Dead (Weak) battery
- - - we can add to the above list potential dirty fuel issues
You / they have just had the battery off and driven for 6 minutes. So of the above my chosen 1st stop is the battery. Did you as tfb said check the battery poles are tight - don't rely on anyone else - take them off completely, give em a smear with Vaseline, emery cloth the inside of the pole clamps and after 15 minutes re-clamp the battery. That will also reboot your computer and perform the usual checks on your communication system. What happens now ?
Best of luck !
Do I wipe the vaseline off before reclamping the battery or leave some on?
#13
07-31-2014, 07:24 PM
Just a thin smear the same as you would if you wiped a thin smear on your child's lip /cold sore. Of more interest is why did you choose to replace the battery in that 1st instance, what was it that was 'previousy' giving you problems that made you decide to splash out all that wonka on a new spiral ? Are you sure you were not having starting / running problems in the first place !
Are you sure you are switching the car car off properly at the LOCK position and not accidentally leaving it in the ACC position. There is a noticeably raised piece of plastic at the LOCK position that you can feel with your finger [see the twin white lines in the picture that diametrically correspond with the key shape below] that is designed to indicate the point at which to pull out the key so that all the accessories are switched off.
Are you sure you are switching the car car off properly at the LOCK position and not accidentally leaving it in the ACC position. There is a noticeably raised piece of plastic at the LOCK position that you can feel with your finger [see the twin white lines in the picture that diametrically correspond with the key shape below] that is designed to indicate the point at which to pull out the key so that all the accessories are switched off.
Last edited by QinteQ; 07-31-2014 at 07:59 PM.
#15
08-01-2014, 01:46 PM
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Livingston, Scotland
Posts: 307
Just a thin smear the same as you would if you wiped a thin smear on your child's lip /cold sore. Of more interest is why did you choose to replace the battery in that 1st instance, what was it that was 'previousy' giving you problems that made you decide to splash out all that wonka on a new spiral ? Are you sure you were not having starting / running problems in the first place !
Are you sure you are switching the car car off properly at the LOCK position and not accidentally leaving it in the ACC position. There is a noticeably raised piece of plastic at the LOCK position that you can feel with your finger [see the twin white lines in the picture that diametrically correspond with the key shape below] that is designed to indicate the point at which to pull out the key so that all the accessories are switched off.
Are you sure you are switching the car car off properly at the LOCK position and not accidentally leaving it in the ACC position. There is a noticeably raised piece of plastic at the LOCK position that you can feel with your finger [see the twin white lines in the picture that diametrically correspond with the key shape below] that is designed to indicate the point at which to pull out the key so that all the accessories are switched off.
#16
08-05-2014, 03:28 PM
Cutting out
Tried everything from fuel filter to mass air flow sensor, all kinds of other sensors.
Maybe it's time I tried the crank sensor? Every mechanic I have spoken to has said it won't be that because it wouldn't start up straight away after cutting out.Until recently it did start everytime after cutting out now every so often it will start to rough idle and almost cut but just keep runing. Then when I try and set off there's no drive and the engine cuts off, when I try and start it won't fire, I usually have to wait 10 seconds or more before it will start again.
Would LOVE to get to the bottom of this, it's been driving me nuts for 7 months!.
#17
08-05-2014, 04:21 PM
You could try measuring the DC resistance of the crank sensor*, (without any dismantling) someone on here will tell you the resistance of a new one. If there's a marked difference, it could quite easily cause intermittency due to shorted turns. All these type of input circuits on the micro-board will have the so-called "clean-up" system, whereby a low-ish output from the sensor will still work, but only up to a point. Someone on here will know the millivolt output of a good sensor with engine turning, so you could use a digital multimeter to measure it, again without dismantling or buying a new sensor "on spec".
Leedsman.
* These sensors are usually called 'tacho coils' or sometimes 'pg coils', i.e. pulse generator coils. They are always used to measure the speed of a rotating shaft or a motor to synchronize it to something else, (example, to synchronize it to a predetermined idle speed whether or not there is 'drag' from a torque converter) or to control its rotational speed or phase angle. In this case the crank pg coil will indicate the precise position of the crank so such things as injection or ignition can be timed, and the advance or retard (phase angle) can be altered as required against a resident program. In this case 0* will be TDC. Example, acceleration advance in spark timing in a petrol engine -- in this case manifold depression loss would be used from another sensor as indication that accelerating power is demanded. In a petrol engine, data from the crank sensor would also enrich the mixture at injection if the crank sensor indicated idle speed, and the manifold sensor indicated full depression. (usually around 750RPM). The mass airflow sensor will also be involved as an alternative or in conjunction with, nowadays always the "hot-wire" system due to its inherent reliability.
Leedsman.
* These sensors are usually called 'tacho coils' or sometimes 'pg coils', i.e. pulse generator coils. They are always used to measure the speed of a rotating shaft or a motor to synchronize it to something else, (example, to synchronize it to a predetermined idle speed whether or not there is 'drag' from a torque converter) or to control its rotational speed or phase angle. In this case the crank pg coil will indicate the precise position of the crank so such things as injection or ignition can be timed, and the advance or retard (phase angle) can be altered as required against a resident program. In this case 0* will be TDC. Example, acceleration advance in spark timing in a petrol engine -- in this case manifold depression loss would be used from another sensor as indication that accelerating power is demanded. In a petrol engine, data from the crank sensor would also enrich the mixture at injection if the crank sensor indicated idle speed, and the manifold sensor indicated full depression. (usually around 750RPM). The mass airflow sensor will also be involved as an alternative or in conjunction with, nowadays always the "hot-wire" system due to its inherent reliability.
Last edited by Leedsman; 08-06-2014 at 03:36 AM.
#18
08-06-2014, 07:11 AM
Garage?
You could try measuring the DC resistance of the crank sensor*, (without any dismantling) someone on here will tell you the resistance of a new one. If there's a marked difference, it could quite easily cause intermittency due to shorted turns. All these type of input circuits on the micro-board will have the so-called "clean-up" system, whereby a low-ish output from the sensor will still work, but only up to a point. Someone on here will know the millivolt output of a good sensor with engine turning, so you could use a digital multimeter to measure it, again without dismantling or buying a new sensor "on spec".
Leedsman.
* These sensors are usually called 'tacho coils' or sometimes 'pg coils', i.e. pulse generator coils. They are always used to measure the speed of a rotating shaft or a motor to synchronize it to something else, (example, to synchronize it to a predetermined idle speed whether or not there is 'drag' from a torque converter) or to control its rotational speed or phase angle. In this case the crank pg coil will indicate the precise position of the crank so such things as injection or ignition can be timed, and the advance or retard (phase angle) can be altered as required against a resident program. In this case 0* will be TDC. Example, acceleration advance in spark timing in a petrol engine -- in this case manifold depression loss would be used from another sensor as indication that accelerating power is demanded. In a petrol engine, data from the crank sensor would also enrich the mixture at injection if the crank sensor indicated idle speed, and the manifold sensor indicated full depression. (usually around 750RPM). The mass airflow sensor will also be involved as an alternative or in conjunction with, nowadays always the "hot-wire" system due to its inherent reliability.
Leedsman.
* These sensors are usually called 'tacho coils' or sometimes 'pg coils', i.e. pulse generator coils. They are always used to measure the speed of a rotating shaft or a motor to synchronize it to something else, (example, to synchronize it to a predetermined idle speed whether or not there is 'drag' from a torque converter) or to control its rotational speed or phase angle. In this case the crank pg coil will indicate the precise position of the crank so such things as injection or ignition can be timed, and the advance or retard (phase angle) can be altered as required against a resident program. In this case 0* will be TDC. Example, acceleration advance in spark timing in a petrol engine -- in this case manifold depression loss would be used from another sensor as indication that accelerating power is demanded. In a petrol engine, data from the crank sensor would also enrich the mixture at injection if the crank sensor indicated idle speed, and the manifold sensor indicated full depression. (usually around 750RPM). The mass airflow sensor will also be involved as an alternative or in conjunction with, nowadays always the "hot-wire" system due to its inherent reliability.
Do you have a garage? If love to bring my voyager up so you can have a look at it?
