2000 LHS oil cooler lines
Arghh.. Having just replaced rotten brake lines, the car was taken for NYS inspection, where the tech noticed a bad oil leak, said it was from one of the oil cooler lines. I did not notice this, as there was brake fluid all over the place as it was. I do see aftermarket lines (supply and return) are available, which tells me this is high failure rate item. How involved is it to change those 2 lines? After the brake line experience, I am making no assumptions about how easy anything should be on this vehicle... I also wonder why there needs to be any oil cooler at all, on a non-turbocharged motor, but I guess that was an engineering decision made back then (perhaps slightly better economy, who knows)...
Well this has gone south.. Impossible to loosen the lower connection at the radiator, decided to bypass instead. I capped off the radiator connections, but I am not sure what to do with the engine sides..
1) The sending unit seems kind of loose, how does it attach to that T fitting thing? What parts would I need to just connect the sending unit directly to the block and eliminate the T fitting?
2) I removed the fitting at the oil pan, seems like a check valve.. What size plug can be used in place of that? I tried to get caps to go onto where the lines would attach at the engine ( the check valve at the pan and the T fitting), but it seems to be metric (M16 fine I think), no one has any plug like that..
1) The sending unit seems kind of loose, how does it attach to that T fitting thing? What parts would I need to just connect the sending unit directly to the block and eliminate the T fitting?
2) I removed the fitting at the oil pan, seems like a check valve.. What size plug can be used in place of that? I tried to get caps to go onto where the lines would attach at the engine ( the check valve at the pan and the T fitting), but it seems to be metric (M16 fine I think), no one has any plug like that..
3/8 NPT plug for pan. Remove filter, "T" adapter, thread sending unit into block and done.
T adapter swivels on its mount. If I recall it is 11/16 wrench size flats at the block. Once removed, remove the sending unit and install it back in the block.
Oil cooler lines were discontinued after 02 on"LH" cars.
http://300mclub.org/forums/viewtopic...ooler+deletehe
T adapter swivels on its mount. If I recall it is 11/16 wrench size flats at the block. Once removed, remove the sending unit and install it back in the block.
Oil cooler lines were discontinued after 02 on"LH" cars.
http://300mclub.org/forums/viewtopic...ooler+deletehe
Thanks, I ended up capping off the 2 lines by cutting them to about a 1/4 inch protruding from the nut, then inserted a small metal insert in between the line/nut and the fitting, and reassembled with teflon paste. Let it run a good 1/2 hour, no leaks... I am not sure where the metal inserts came from, but they were concave and fit perfectly.. I think they were port plugs that came from an old carb kit from many years ago. I tend to hoard that kind of stuff, never know when you might need it..
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Dalton0922
Chrysler 300, 300C & 300C SRT-8
1
Sep 27, 2014 02:47 PM
thx569
300M, Concorde, LHS, New Yorker
0
May 24, 2011 01:18 AM
onecheck
Chrysler 200 & Sebring
1
Mar 3, 2011 09:43 AM



