300M, Concorde, LHS, New Yorker Discuss the Chrysler LH platform cars within.

2000 LHS oil cooler lines

  #1  
Old 11-16-2016, 08:31 AM
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Default 2000 LHS oil cooler lines

Arghh.. Having just replaced rotten brake lines, the car was taken for NYS inspection, where the tech noticed a bad oil leak, said it was from one of the oil cooler lines. I did not notice this, as there was brake fluid all over the place as it was. I do see aftermarket lines (supply and return) are available, which tells me this is high failure rate item. How involved is it to change those 2 lines? After the brake line experience, I am making no assumptions about how easy anything should be on this vehicle... I also wonder why there needs to be any oil cooler at all, on a non-turbocharged motor, but I guess that was an engineering decision made back then (perhaps slightly better economy, who knows)...
 
  #2  
Old 11-18-2016, 04:26 PM
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Well this has gone south.. Impossible to loosen the lower connection at the radiator, decided to bypass instead. I capped off the radiator connections, but I am not sure what to do with the engine sides..
1) The sending unit seems kind of loose, how does it attach to that T fitting thing? What parts would I need to just connect the sending unit directly to the block and eliminate the T fitting?
2) I removed the fitting at the oil pan, seems like a check valve.. What size plug can be used in place of that? I tried to get caps to go onto where the lines would attach at the engine ( the check valve at the pan and the T fitting), but it seems to be metric (M16 fine I think), no one has any plug like that..
 
  #3  
Old 11-19-2016, 06:07 AM
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3/8 NPT plug for pan. Remove filter, "T" adapter, thread sending unit into block and done.
T adapter swivels on its mount. If I recall it is 11/16 wrench size flats at the block. Once removed, remove the sending unit and install it back in the block.
Oil cooler lines were discontinued after 02 on"LH" cars.
http://300mclub.org/forums/viewtopic...ooler+deletehe
 
  #4  
Old 11-19-2016, 04:06 PM
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Thanks, I ended up capping off the 2 lines by cutting them to about a 1/4 inch protruding from the nut, then inserted a small metal insert in between the line/nut and the fitting, and reassembled with teflon paste. Let it run a good 1/2 hour, no leaks... I am not sure where the metal inserts came from, but they were concave and fit perfectly.. I think they were port plugs that came from an old carb kit from many years ago. I tend to hoard that kind of stuff, never know when you might need it..
 
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