It sounds like your oil pressure may truly be low. You should really have it checked with a mechanical gauge.

 

Here is how I fixed the low oil pressure light problem without using any parts, only the labor to remove the oil pressure sensor is needed. I have an 02 seabring convertible 2.7L engine and I was having the same problem with my oil light coming on at an idle. I bought a new sensor replaced the old one and had the same problem. I than got a test kit and tested my oil pressure. It was very good, never lower than 11 PSI hot at an idle. I was reading about the wire connector modification, but I had an 02 and this mod came out in 98, surely Chrysler incorporated this mod on its newer vehicles. Well after checking more they did not and this is what turned me off on Chrysler products forever. For a manufacturer to produce a vehicle with a known defect and a modification fix and not incorporated this modification on its newer vehicles is inexcusable.

After reading that the modification was to stop pressure build up in the sensor housing I decided to make a pressure release hole in the sensor housing. I took my old oil pressure sensor and using a 1/8 inch bit I drilled a small hole at the base of the plastic sensor tower. I put the old sensor in and drove for a week, no problem with my light coming on. To test further I took the new oil pressure sensor I bought and drilled a hole in it also. Put it in and I've been driving for months now and no problem with my oil pressure light coming on at all now.

 

Here is how I fixed the low oil pressure light problem without using any parts, only the labor to remove the oil pressure sensor is needed. I have an 02 seabring convertible 2.7L engine and I was having the same problem with my oil light coming on at an idle. I bought a new sensor replaced the old one and had the same problem. I than got a test kit and tested my oil pressure. It was very good, never lower than 11 PSI hot at an idle. I was reading about the wire connector modification, but I had an 02 and this mod came out in 98, surely Chrysler incorporated this mod on its newer vehicles. Well after checking more they did not and this is what turned me off on Chrysler products forever. For a manufacturer to produce a vehicle with a known defect and a modification fix and not incorporated this modification on its newer vehicles is inexcusable.

After reading that the modification was to stop pressure build up in the sensor housing I decided to make a pressure release hole in the sensor housing. I took my old oil pressure sensor and using a 1/8 inch bit I drilled a small hole at the base of the plastic sensor tower. I put the old sensor in and drove for a week, no problem with my light coming on. To test further I took the new oil pressure sensor I bought and drilled a hole in it. Put it in and I've been driving for months and no problem with my oil pressure light coming on at all now.

 

Z1 MILLION how is your car running read my info below. I wanted to get an update to see if your car is still running well with your mod. I think I might try that this weekend before I replace the oil pressure sensor. Or do you recommend your mod plus replacing the oil pressure sensor. The car will also die here and there once warmed up and you come to a stop light or something. Anyone with some insight to my problem below would be greatly appreciated THANKS!!



Hi I have the same problem as mentioned above. I just rebuilt my 2.7L engine with new rod, crankshaft, bearings. There is no evidence of sludge in the motor at all. So we have it all put together it runs awesome until the car reaches normal operating temp. I will have it in park just idling in the garage and every 30 seconds or so idle will drop and act like it will die and the oil light flickers and stays on. I checked the oil and it is fine. I am just doing some searches around on the internet to find out where to start and how to fix. Only thing going for me is I know its not a sludge issue. Just for FYI original problem why engine broke down was it had a small oil leak and mother in law drove it bone dry and broke the bearings, rod, and wore down the crankshaft. I look forward to replies either on here or my email at mcdonaho@aol.com. Thanks.

 

Ok well I think I got my light to go away. I pulled the oil sensor switch off and just removed the dart in the switch and it seemed to go away. I plan on in the next few days to pick up the part described in the T.S.B. to insert in the switch where the dart was. If I do notice the oil light come back on I'll prolly try drilling thru it like the other member posted. I didnt notice any oil in my switch or around the sensor. So hopefully all is well. One thing I'm curious about is before I did the work above once the car got warmed up the car would occasionally die at stop light or when I throw it in reverse hopefully the oil light and the idle issue are related. Guess I'll know this weekend when i put few hundred miles on it.

 

I have a 1999 Town and Country (3.8 liter) that I also just replaced the oil pressure sensor (a.k.a. oil pressure switch) today. It took three trips to Auto Zone and a few hours. For this model make sure you get a 28mm deep socket bit to remove the old and install the new sensor. You WILL NOT be able to loosen it any other way. I first tried a regular wrench, then adjustable wrench, channel locks, and vice grips. No way to get the leverage you need to get it loose with these other tools. They put these things on TIGHT. It's also much recommended to remove the oil filter to get to the sensor. If you use a ratchet with the 28mm deep socket you will be much happier later in the day, and you will have some day left over.

As for getting off the red retainer pin, it slides completely out one side and you can hold it in your hand, then and only then will you be able to push down on the little tab and pull the housing connector off the sensor. Otherwise you may damage it possibly beyond it working correctly.

Finally, I replaced the sensor after learning more than I wanted to, but the thing still beep beep beeps at red lights after the engine warms up. I also noticed some oil was inside the housing connector when I took it off and wonder if that could also be causing the beeping, like a short or something.

I also found that a fuse under the steering wheel for the rear wiper (on back of van) also disables the oil pressure light and binging, but later found it also disables the air conditioner. Man, how I wish they had a fuse just for this problem. If you don't need A/C then you may be able to pull that fuse and be okay. I live in Texas so that's not an option

 

So have done and given me the same explanation a mechanic, who is know as very good and experienced one. He said that the same problems are with the sensor on his Jeep.

BTW, in other auto repair service my sensor had been replaced a 12K Miles ago, and in a year the problem returned. I hope that the hole in the sensor housing fixed it finally.

 

this problem is clear and simple.

the PROGRAMMED value inside the computer is for a fresh sensor.
these sensors are aging and the signal they send out grows slightly weaker.
it doesnt mean the sensor is bad.. it means the computer has a value programmed into memory that is simply a little bit too high.

if the light comes on at a stop.. it should IMMEDIATELY shut off when you press the gas pedal.
it might even shut off as you move your foot from the brake pedal to the gas pedal.

when the RPM needle moves and the light doesnt shut off.. you are low on oil.

it seems like the only way to prevent yourself from buying new sensors again and again.. you need to know what voltages the sensor puts out, then build a circuit to boost the signal just a tiny bit.. but without affecting the quality of the signal.

you can pull up to a building (like at an atm) and roll down the window.. if you dont hear any noise from the engine, the oil level is high enough to keep the hydraulic lash adjusters firmly pressed on the camshafts.
when the oil gets low, the cams start to make a ticking sound.

 

For me it has been explained as air pressure built up in sensor housing, that prevents sensor to work on low RPM (when oil pressure is minimal). So hole in housing fixed the problem so far.

 

The sensor is an analog signal. At rest it measures about 7 OHMs and resistance increases as pressure rises. Could you be a little more specific as to where you drilled a "relief" hole. Thanks, Jim