i have a 1997 sebring 2.5 auto. it is throwing code p1391 only. no other codes. i have a snap on solus scanner that i pulled the codes with. after i found the codes i had my wife drive the car while i watched the data. cam singal- ok crank signal-ok current sync- ok. current sync will go to lost and the crank signal will flash no for a sec and go back to ok. cam signal stays ok. i replaced the crank sensor. no change. The crank sensor is a bwd from oriellys. the distributor was replaced before i got the car with one off of ebay. my guess is the crank and cam sensors ok and it is a wiring issue. maybe ecm. the ecm is a 1997 only from what i found. just wondering if there are any ideas on what could be the problem.

 

May want to check the ASD relay...quite old by now. Also even though it take a bit of work to get to, pop the dist. cap and check things out at the rotor and inside the cap. You should also check the connectors for the dist. wiring for good clean fit while "opened up" in that area. I have a 98 Avenger of the same type!

 

I checked the crank sensor again. checked distributor, ecu and wiring couldn't find a issue. just checking other stuff on the car hooked a multi-meter to the battery checking voltage engine off 13.45 volts.at idle 15.2 volts and at 3000rpms 18.1 volts. could the alternator overcharging cause the sensors to act weird?

 

Short answer...YES! You need to find out why, possible bad ground connections...battery neg to engine, and to body. How old is the battery? should have it load tested for amps as well as determining a bad cell.

 

i fixed the over voltage problems. when the car is at idle it shows no issue then after driving about a mile the car issues come back. replace crankshaft position sensor and put a known good distributor.checked all the wires going from pcm to each sensor. p1391 comes back. could the flywheel be messed up causing the code while driving. the crankshaft position sensor reads off the flywheel in the bell housing. should i try flywheel or pcm next?

 

What was the "overcharge" problem and did you have the battery load tested for cell damage(loss of amps capacity/per cell)?
Also did you just check for plastic connector fit or did you clean and inspect metal wire ends inside them? The crank sensor is pretty tricky, in that there is a air gap that must be within specs during replacement or with too large a gap, could also show up as an intermittent loss of signal.

 

I had the battery load tested it checked good. No bad cells. The overcharging issue turned out to be a ground issue. I ran a new ground to the engine and transmission. There is a air gap that has to be correct at the crank sensor. The one I got had a paper glued to it for sitting the air gap. Put the sensor in and tighten down kind of thing.

Here are the instructions. The picture is the picture that comes with the instruction.


Fig. Fig. 6: Crankshaft position sensor and spacer

The crankshaft position sensor should be adjustable, which is identifiable by the presence of an elongated mounting hole on the sensor itself. If the sensor removed is being re-installed, clean off the old paper spacer from the sensor face. A new spacer must be mounted on the face before installation. However, if a new crankshaft position sensor is being installed, confirm that a paper spacer is already present.

1. Install the sensor into the transaxle and push down until it contacts the flexplate. Hold the sensor in position and install the mounting screw. Tighten the sensor mounting screw to 105 inch lbs. (12 Nm).
2. Attach the crankshaft position sensor's electrical connector.
3. Attach the electrical connector to the heater tube bracket.
4. If removed, install the speed control servo unit back into position and tighten the mounting nuts to 80 inch lbs. (9 Nm).
5. Connect the negative battery cable.

 

OK, we seem to be on the same page about the sensor mounting. Glad it was ground troubles, BUT the ECM grounds thru the body/chassis. There is a small ground wire bolted down on the strut tower, may want to check that also. Only other I can offer is solid clean connections of the wires inside the plastic connectors of the various ignition related components.

 

i have cleaned that ground. it still comes up p1391. the only thing left i haven't done is replaced the pcm. checked the flywheel for cracks the best i could without pulling transmission.
not sure what else i can check.

 

Might want to check this out:
http://www.justanswer.com/chrysler/1...-no-spark.html