2001 sebring 2.7L v6 GETTING HOT????
#1
02-12-2013, 12:47 PM
2001 sebring 2.7L v6 GETTING HOT????
Ok So, I just Bought my 2001 Sebring with the CRAPPY 2.7L V6 in it from my mother. It had been sitting for 2 years because the water pump was out and my mother ended up just getting a Jeep Wrangler. So, I got the water pump replaced a few days ago and got to drive her Home. When I got Home I let it run a little while Work out all the Gunk that maybe in there. She started to get dangerously hot. Today on my way to work she almost died at an intersection when I got on the gas. as soon as I let go and tried again it reved and was ok. I pulled into a parking lot because My oil Light came on. Turned it off to check the oil. Level is a little high but there is oil. When I tried to restart she wouldn't for a while finally I gave it a last ditch effort put my foot to the gas while I was trying to start she fired and made it the last mile or 2 to work. DOES ANYONE KNOW WHAT COULD CAUSE MY ISSUES?????
#2
02-13-2013, 09:23 AM
There are many possible causes for overheating:
Low coolant
clogged radiator hose
internally clogged radiator
externally clogged radiator
fan malfunction
improper coolant
water pump not working
bad radiator cap
blown head gasket
probably some more that I haven't thought of
Oil light: a known issue, replace the switch. If that doesn't do it, you may have more serious problems
Check for sludge. Talk to the guy who replaced the water pump about what he found. Sludge is the killer problem for that engine. If you don't have sludge you can get lots of good use out of the engine still.
Stalling: Check for codes, check fuel system operation.
That car is now 13 years old. It's going to have some problems.
If you don't want to deal with the problems of an old car, get a newer one. Complaining won't solve anything.
Low coolant
clogged radiator hose
internally clogged radiator
externally clogged radiator
fan malfunction
improper coolant
water pump not working
bad radiator cap
blown head gasket
probably some more that I haven't thought of
Oil light: a known issue, replace the switch. If that doesn't do it, you may have more serious problems
Check for sludge. Talk to the guy who replaced the water pump about what he found. Sludge is the killer problem for that engine. If you don't have sludge you can get lots of good use out of the engine still.
Stalling: Check for codes, check fuel system operation.
That car is now 13 years old. It's going to have some problems.
If you don't want to deal with the problems of an old car, get a newer one. Complaining won't solve anything.
#3
02-14-2013, 07:01 PM
Ok So, I just Bought my 2001 Sebring with the CRAPPY 2.7L V6 in it from my mother. It had been sitting for 2 years because the water pump was out and my mother ended up just getting a Jeep Wrangler. So, I got the water pump replaced a few days ago and got to drive her Home. When I got Home I let it run a little while Work out all the Gunk that maybe in there. She started to get dangerously hot. Today on my way to work she almost died at an intersection when I got on the gas. as soon as I let go and tried again it reved and was ok. I pulled into a parking lot because My oil Light came on. Turned it off to check the oil. Level is a little high but there is oil. When I tried to restart she wouldn't for a while finally I gave it a last ditch effort put my foot to the gas while I was trying to start she fired and made it the last mile or 2 to work. DOES ANYONE KNOW WHAT COULD CAUSE MY ISSUES?????
But a common issue modern aluminum high output engine is they don't live long if they are neglected. Most people DO NOT DO PROPER MAINTENANCE. This is why there seems to be a lot of these giving problems.
Most likely your overheating issue is air trapped in your coolant system. There is an air bleeder assembly on the engine to provide a high point to purge the air out of the system if it is breached for repair, etc.
The issue with the oil light is -most-likely a bad switch. This is pretty common. The down side getting to the switch and changing it is a real pain in the you know what. It is on the back of the engine between the rear cat and the block, behind a metal shield. To top that it is a common issue for the switch to be seized in the block because the 2 dissimilar metals involved.
If you loose our oil pressure the biggest indication is that the valve train will get very noisy and will make a clattering noise. IF you don't have that issue, your pressure is probably OK.
#4
02-28-2013, 09:44 AM
Thanks
Sorry DR. Righteous LOL I disagree i like the 3.0 Motor better.
I found my issue with the coolant. I put to much trust into my mechanic. He hadn't Much if any coolant in it. I figure when you take coolant to someone and they say they put it in The actually might put it in. However I do have a tiny Leak in the hose from the lower end of the radioator to the block. I will be replacing that this weekend weather permiting. It's maybe 10 drops a day if that kinda leak but I don't want pressure to make that worse.
The oil light has not come on since. I have check my oil and made sure It wasn't low or burnt. It was just a hair high but that was it.
I wasn't trying to complain but trying to figure out all my issues. I have been with out a car for a year so having anything to drive is a wonderful thing. I love This car and have since 2001 when my mother bought it. I know with older cars and trucks you will have issues. I have worked on Them since I could reach over the fender. I have rebuilt the engine in an 87 Buick lesaber and a 85 corvette. I did an engine sawp In a 77 chevy c10 cheyanne. So I am not unaware that they will have issues and I am not unexperianced at working on cars. I had to know how to change oil, tires and brakes Before I was allowed to drive at 16. I am not trying to come off B*tchy or anything Just informing so you don't think I am just some Yuppy that Knows nothing. Thanks for your help Fellas.
I found my issue with the coolant. I put to much trust into my mechanic. He hadn't Much if any coolant in it. I figure when you take coolant to someone and they say they put it in The actually might put it in. However I do have a tiny Leak in the hose from the lower end of the radioator to the block. I will be replacing that this weekend weather permiting. It's maybe 10 drops a day if that kinda leak but I don't want pressure to make that worse.
The oil light has not come on since. I have check my oil and made sure It wasn't low or burnt. It was just a hair high but that was it.
I wasn't trying to complain but trying to figure out all my issues. I have been with out a car for a year so having anything to drive is a wonderful thing. I love This car and have since 2001 when my mother bought it. I know with older cars and trucks you will have issues. I have worked on Them since I could reach over the fender. I have rebuilt the engine in an 87 Buick lesaber and a 85 corvette. I did an engine sawp In a 77 chevy c10 cheyanne. So I am not unaware that they will have issues and I am not unexperianced at working on cars. I had to know how to change oil, tires and brakes Before I was allowed to drive at 16. I am not trying to come off B*tchy or anything Just informing so you don't think I am just some Yuppy that Knows nothing. Thanks for your help Fellas.
First I reject the idea that 2.7L is a "crappy" engine.
But a common issue modern aluminum high output engine is they don't live long if they are neglected. Most people DO NOT DO PROPER MAINTENANCE. This is why there seems to be a lot of these giving problems.
Most likely your overheating issue is air trapped in your coolant system. There is an air bleeder assembly on the engine to provide a high point to purge the air out of the system if it is breached for repair, etc.
The issue with the oil light is -most-likely a bad switch. This is pretty common. The down side getting to the switch and changing it is a real pain in the you know what. It is on the back of the engine between the rear cat and the block, behind a metal shield. To top that it is a common issue for the switch to be seized in the block because the 2 dissimilar metals involved.
If you loose our oil pressure the biggest indication is that the valve train will get very noisy and will make a clattering noise. IF you don't have that issue, your pressure is probably OK.
But a common issue modern aluminum high output engine is they don't live long if they are neglected. Most people DO NOT DO PROPER MAINTENANCE. This is why there seems to be a lot of these giving problems.
Most likely your overheating issue is air trapped in your coolant system. There is an air bleeder assembly on the engine to provide a high point to purge the air out of the system if it is breached for repair, etc.
The issue with the oil light is -most-likely a bad switch. This is pretty common. The down side getting to the switch and changing it is a real pain in the you know what. It is on the back of the engine between the rear cat and the block, behind a metal shield. To top that it is a common issue for the switch to be seized in the block because the 2 dissimilar metals involved.
If you loose our oil pressure the biggest indication is that the valve train will get very noisy and will make a clattering noise. IF you don't have that issue, your pressure is probably OK.
#5
02-28-2013, 10:07 AM
"There is an air bleeder assembly on the engine to provide a high point to purge the air out of the system if it is breached for repair, etc."
DON'T TOUCH THAT BLEEDER!!!!!!!!!
The bleeder screw is threaded into a metal female insert that is in turn set in to the plastic body of the part. Unless the part is brand new, turning the screw will almost certainly cause the insert to spin in the plastic, resulting in a leak and requiring replacement of the whole part. (Personal experience speaking here.)
The sytem will bleed itself after a few warm-up and cool-down cycles, then you can add a little more coolant if required.
The bleed screw was put in there so they could fill and bleed the system all at once at the factory. It's a poor design with the insert retained in the plastic using tiny flutes that are not strong enough to resist turning against the force necessary to unscrew an old bleed screw that has been in service for some years.
DON'T TOUCH THAT BLEEDER!!!!!!!!!
The bleeder screw is threaded into a metal female insert that is in turn set in to the plastic body of the part. Unless the part is brand new, turning the screw will almost certainly cause the insert to spin in the plastic, resulting in a leak and requiring replacement of the whole part. (Personal experience speaking here.)
The sytem will bleed itself after a few warm-up and cool-down cycles, then you can add a little more coolant if required.
The bleed screw was put in there so they could fill and bleed the system all at once at the factory. It's a poor design with the insert retained in the plastic using tiny flutes that are not strong enough to resist turning against the force necessary to unscrew an old bleed screw that has been in service for some years.
#6
03-01-2013, 07:21 AM
"There is an air bleeder assembly on the engine to provide a high point to purge the air out of the system if it is breached for repair, etc."
DON'T TOUCH THAT BLEEDER!!!!!!!!!
The bleeder screw is threaded into a metal female insert that is in turn set in to the plastic body of the part. Unless the part is brand new, turning the screw will almost certainly cause the insert to spin in the plastic, resulting in a leak and requiring replacement of the whole part. (Personal experience speaking here.)
The sytem will bleed itself after a few warm-up and cool-down cycles, then you can add a little more coolant if required.
The bleed screw was put in there so they could fill and bleed the system all at once at the factory. It's a poor design with the insert retained in the plastic using tiny flutes that are not strong enough to resist turning against the force necessary to unscrew an old bleed screw that has been in service for some years.
DON'T TOUCH THAT BLEEDER!!!!!!!!!
The bleeder screw is threaded into a metal female insert that is in turn set in to the plastic body of the part. Unless the part is brand new, turning the screw will almost certainly cause the insert to spin in the plastic, resulting in a leak and requiring replacement of the whole part. (Personal experience speaking here.)
The sytem will bleed itself after a few warm-up and cool-down cycles, then you can add a little more coolant if required.
The bleed screw was put in there so they could fill and bleed the system all at once at the factory. It's a poor design with the insert retained in the plastic using tiny flutes that are not strong enough to resist turning against the force necessary to unscrew an old bleed screw that has been in service for some years.
One method is to drive the car with a full rad tank with the rad cap loose; the air will bleed past the cap and will not build pressure, the rad tank will empty. You will have to then refill the tank. But driving with the cap sealed, the air cannot escape.
#7
03-01-2013, 08:59 AM
Air can escape with the cap in place. The cap is a pressure limiting device that will allow escape of air and fluid if the pressure exceeds the rated value of the cap. What escapes goes in to the overflow side of the tank (if you look at it you'll see it has two chambers). If coolant goes in there, it will get sucked back in to the system as it cools down.
Thus the air tends to collect at the tank so you can see that the level is down and can add coolant to replace the air. After a few cycles, the problem is gone.
Thus the air tends to collect at the tank so you can see that the level is down and can add coolant to replace the air. After a few cycles, the problem is gone.
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