2004 Chrysler Sebring 2.7L engine problems
#11
09-11-2017, 09:00 AM
Light dimming could be a bad ground somewhere. There are many ground points in the wiring system. Every time you see one, loosen the screw, wiggle the terminal under the screw and re-tighten. Can't hurt, might help.
Also, search the forum here for "inverter".
Also, search the forum here for "inverter".
#12
09-12-2017, 03:34 AM
OK please forgive the ignorance of a novice....here goes I bought a2006 Sebring 2.7...123k on orig...had enough prev.done ..ran great.5..6. .mo later started o heating..hired a Mobil mech.to install water pump,timing chain ..quoted me 275.labor I buy parts ..well I'm learning ivread in Haynes manual..that changing water pump means timing chains .but if you don't know this setup don't **** with timing cuz you can ruin this car...I'm aso reading about new tensioner and special tool for getting tensor.right when he is done 4days later car is idiling rough and not cruising proper...then the upper hose coolant.hose .male on bleedef breaks hose comes off lose coolant no overheating stranded..I reconnect upper hose to the 1/8 in.of male left make it home get bleeder ***.and install still idle ruff..tell mech .hink timing is wrong he says he CKD twice using can tools to keep right...shaky I key
Can tool . tensioner set wrong can **** up motor he says the w pump kit had new one.....now when I am installing bleeder I have to loosen manifold well j find one manifold bolt stripped and another broke off could this be causing rough idle?poor performance?also no gasket upper intake......I plan to fix this ...am I wasting my time?
Can tool . tensioner set wrong can **** up motor he says the w pump kit had new one.....now when I am installing bleeder I have to loosen manifold well j find one manifold bolt stripped and another broke off could this be causing rough idle?poor performance?also no gasket upper intake......I plan to fix this ...am I wasting my time?
#13
09-12-2017, 03:06 PM
You can't replace the water pump without at least loosening the timing chain. That's why you normally do both at the same time. $275 labor sounds awful cheap to do the entire job. I don't know anyone that would do it for less than $600 plus parts. It's possible that the timing could be a tooth off and that's why it's idling rough but I would fix the intake issues first and see what happens. Having no intake gaskets is going to cause a vacuum leak and that could also be why it's idling rough. If you got a warranty take it back and have them fix it. If you didn't get a warranty then I can understand why it was so cheap.
John
John
#14
09-14-2017, 08:39 PM
So I just got a 2004 Chrysler Sebring LX 2.7L from a family member. I am getting 2 engine codes and noticing a few things after putting about 275km on the car. So firstly the little quirks/ issues I notice. At first it had a bit of a knock on the passenger side of the valve covers. But that's gone away after an oil change. Now I notice that the throttle is pretty unresponsive. It seems to be either nothing or burnout pretty well. When driving heavy acceleration like getting on highway etc. (Over 3000 rpm) will cause it to start like it's trying to stall (this is an automatic) but it is VERY SPORATIC and only ever happens when you really need it to go (of course lol)
I also realize sometimes after hot and accelerating it will sound like a buzzer kind of sound really light and quite quiet.
Tonight when raining the dash lights occasionally dimmed a bit but would come back full power after accelerating to driving speed.
So now for check engine light... So it only really seems to come on when driving. When you shut off car and turn back on it seems to disappear for a bit. The code I've always got is P0432. It usually comes on at least once a day but once again seems to autoclear when starting later.
The second code which came up tonight after a 175 KM drive in the rain is P0340. I also noticed after getting home the motor seemed to be steaming/ smoking a little from under the hood. along I've been thinking timing chain, water pump, tensioners, oil pump and pickup for good measure. But that's alot of money and alot of time to spend on assumptions....
So looking for anyone to chime in. If I do the whole shebang I tend to run a motor flush through it to hopefully remove the sludge we all know is either their or building so as to not mess up my new parts and hard work. So please any ideas suggestions or additional questions that could help for input please post them.
I also realize sometimes after hot and accelerating it will sound like a buzzer kind of sound really light and quite quiet.
Tonight when raining the dash lights occasionally dimmed a bit but would come back full power after accelerating to driving speed.
So now for check engine light... So it only really seems to come on when driving. When you shut off car and turn back on it seems to disappear for a bit. The code I've always got is P0432. It usually comes on at least once a day but once again seems to autoclear when starting later.
The second code which came up tonight after a 175 KM drive in the rain is P0340. I also noticed after getting home the motor seemed to be steaming/ smoking a little from under the hood. along I've been thinking timing chain, water pump, tensioners, oil pump and pickup for good measure. But that's alot of money and alot of time to spend on assumptions....
So looking for anyone to chime in. If I do the whole shebang I tend to run a motor flush through it to hopefully remove the sludge we all know is either their or building so as to not mess up my new parts and hard work. So please any ideas suggestions or additional questions that could help for input please post them.
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