Anyone swap their rear drums for discs using factory parts? All the part numbers appear to match up to the drum spacer...

Can anyone tell me the difference between BRF and BFG when it comes to factory disc brake caliper adapters?

Haven't checked master cylinder or proportioning valve part numbers, yet... anyone know if they are the same between drum cars and disc cars?

 

Ordered some Hawk HPS pads for the front, and will order the cyro-treated, slotted rotors for the front on payday. That should take care of that for the time being.

For the rear, I have tracked down factory part numbers for the BRF caliper adapters, BRF calipers, and BRF master cylinder... not sure what else I will need. Obviously a set of 302mm cyro-treated, slotted rotors and a set of pads to go with them. Lol. Pads can be generic in the rear for all I care... the increased leverage from the larger rotors, and "heavy duty" BRF caliper should be plenty of a stopping power increase over the stupid freaking drums that I needn't have to worry about expensive Auto-X pads in the rear.

The HPS Auto-X pads up front should provide enough grip for the majority of the stopping this car will ever need to do. I do not, and will not ever, Auto-X this car... Hawk HPS pads just happen to be the best pads I can find for the front brakes.

Anyone have any insight in swapping drums of factory BRF disc brakes?

 

Don't forget about the parking brake.

 

Good call... I will look that up now.

 

Got the cyro-treated, slotted rotors for the front, and the HPS pads. Just ordered a liter of genuine Ford brake fluid. I think that just about takes cares of the front.

I also ordered the brackets, and bolts for said brackets, for the rear. Gotta start collecting the parts for that... and there's no time like the present.

Any tips or tricks I should be aware of for changing the front brakes? Like anything that would make the Sebring different or unique in methodology from changing the front discs on any other vehicle?

 

Spend 25 bucks for a shop manual, like a Haynes or Chilton's. It will be money well spent. Look thru it whenever you suspect a problem. Even if you decide to hire it done, you'll be well equipped to discuss the matter with the shop and won't fall for any BS they might try to sling your way.

 

I've replaced rotors and pads on other vehicles in the past, just was wanting to know if there is anything in particular to look out for with the Sebring. Sometimes different cars have dumb $#!+ extra steps you have to do, and I would like to be aware of any such extra steps that might be involved with the Sebring before I get under there.

That being said, a manual is never a bad idea and I will pick one up. Pretty sure I still need to buy a few more tools, anyways.