I got a used autostick conversion but in autostick mode it will not upshift. It will downshift fine manually in autostick mode. I assume that it's the autostick switch itself, which I already removed and cleaned, but that did not help. The autostick switch has 4 pins {1-Downshift; 2-Upshift; 3-Ground; 4-Fused Ignition Switch}. To test it assume it just supplies 12 volts to pin 2 when you move the lever to the right and 12 volts to pin 1 when you move the lever to the left. So this could be checked with an ohm meter when it's out of the car?
To clean this switch, what would be something safe that I could just soak it for 24 hours while it's out of the car, to get off all corrosion and dirt? You can't just buy a switch. They sell the whole shifter assembly as a unit.
I'd rather just try soaking this switch in something for a day and blow it out with compressed air, but I don't want to use some solvent that will trash the switch. Not sure what would be the best stuff to use to effectively clean it good. I assume the problem with no manual upshift in autostick mode is the switch itself.

 

Auto parts stores sell electrical contact cleaner in spray cans. It doesn't harm plastic. Might be what you want.
Don't be too sure about how it works though, nowadays lots of seemingly simple stuff operates on the data bus.

 

"I got a used autostick conversion" what is that never heard of an auto stick conversion

 

To be more specific I got the parts needed to make a 1999 Sebring convertible have the autostick option. That is the instrument panel/gauges, the autostick TCM, the shifter, the shifter boot. My wiring harness had the right 4 prong plug for the shifter. It will downshift no problem in manual mode but no upshift. I think it may be the switch inside the shifter is dirty or corroded and that's why I can't get upshifts in manual mode. The manual downshifts work fine. That switch is not a separate part. Would I be able to jump pin 2 (upshift sense) to another pin to test it? I don't want fry the TCM. Or test that autostick switch itself in some other way. I already tried cleaning it and then drying it out with compressed air. Didn't help. I was thinking about taking out just the switch and soaking in some solution for 24 hours that is safe for plastic but would still get rid of dirt and corrosion. If there is something that can safely clean it good. Pretty sure it's the switch itself.
I know which pins on the TCM harness {pin 5-upshift; pin 44-downshift} go back to the connector at the autostick switch itself {pin 1-Downshift and pin 2-Upshift} . I think the harness is ok but will check it. EDIT: I just checked the harness from the autostick switch to the TCM & that part is good. It shows continuity to the correct pins as per the FSM. Would I be able to jump pin 2-{Upshift} to pin 4-{Fused Ignition Switch} at the autostick switch itself and cause the upshift that way, just to test it works? {pretty sure that's how it works}. That would prove that the autostick switch is the problem.

 

the shifter is just a signal to the tcm to change gears U will need to have a drb on it to even see if the TCM is getting the signal correctly and when U do shift it what it sees.

 

I tried checking the switch with an ohm meter while it was out of the car, but apparently some things are not as simple as they appear on the surface.
It's fixed now. I sprayed a whole can of electromotive cleaner on it on the second try and left it soaking in the stuff for 6 hours. Then worked the part a lot. A spring was jammed with dirt and small screwdriver got it working. Works fine now. It was just very dirty inside. Btw that part is made by Pollack, part #72430. It might be available someplace separate but not through Chrysler directly.
Autostick is a nice option.
(a vid I did on the autostick wiring & a couple other details. Could be helpful)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xSGp_oHV_S4