Convertible Top Stuck "Picture"
#1
Convertible Top Stuck "Picture"
200 Chrysler 2012
My Top stop going down around 30% of the time. Always stuck at same spot
Can car requiring oil change cause the convertible top to not go down completely?
Or can the problem really be a bad convertible button/switch? ( Especially considering the fact that it gets stuck at exact same place every time? Wouldnt a bad button switch make it stuck at random places?)
Garage dude said he couldnt find any problems with wires and etc but the button / switch must be the problem. My convertible button cover is indeed loose and does come off sometimes, but if I place it back I can still move the Top with it. Can it really be a problem with the button / switch?
After getting my oil change, I tried convertible twice and it worked, but like I said it only gets stuck 30% of the time so don't know for sure if that fixed it.
#2
The need for an oil change has absolutely nothing to do with operation of the convertible top.
The cycling of the top requires the certain operations must occur in a certain order and that each operation must not start until the previous one is complete. There are limit switches that are activated as an operation is completed, and the closing of the limit switch creates a signal so the next operation can commence. Most probably, a limit switch has somehow worked its way out of position and is not closing even though the operation it is associated with has been carried out. It's an easy repair if you know what to look for and where to look for it.
If you can't figure out what to do, take it to a shop that specializes in convertible tops. They work with them all day, every day and have lots of experience with them. They will be better than a dealer even because a dealer does not have that kind of experience. Likewise for the "garage dude".
The cycling of the top requires the certain operations must occur in a certain order and that each operation must not start until the previous one is complete. There are limit switches that are activated as an operation is completed, and the closing of the limit switch creates a signal so the next operation can commence. Most probably, a limit switch has somehow worked its way out of position and is not closing even though the operation it is associated with has been carried out. It's an easy repair if you know what to look for and where to look for it.
If you can't figure out what to do, take it to a shop that specializes in convertible tops. They work with them all day, every day and have lots of experience with them. They will be better than a dealer even because a dealer does not have that kind of experience. Likewise for the "garage dude".
#3
200 Chrysler 2012
My Top stop going down around 30% of the time. Always stuck at same spot
Can car requiring oil change cause the convertible top to not go down completely?
Or can the problem really be a bad convertible button/switch? ( Especially considering the fact that it gets stuck at exact same place every time? Wouldnt a bad button switch make it stuck at random places?)
Garage dude said he couldnt find any problems with wires and etc but the button / switch must be the problem. My convertible button cover is indeed loose and does come off sometimes, but if I place it back I can still move the Top with it. Can it really be a problem with the button / switch?
After getting my oil change, I tried convertible twice and it worked, but like I said it only gets stuck 30% of the time so don't know for sure if that fixed it.
We regret to hear of your concerns. If you are unable to receive more feedback from here, please send us a private message as we would be glad to see how we can assist further on our end.
Alex
Chrysler Cares
#4
Did you ever find a resolution? I have a 200 Chrysler 2011 That is getting stuck in the exact same spot when I try to put the convertible top. It seems to go down fine. But I am always getting the convertible top malfunction message
#5
There will be a diagnostic trouble code set/stored in the ptcm (power top control module) that will help in diagnosing the problem. Most handheld scanners will not be able to pull dtc's from the ptcm and may require a trip to a dealer (cost up to 1 hour of labor -basic diagnostic fee) or a shop with a more advanced scanner (an auto parts store will not likely be able to pull codes from the ptcm).
One of the first areas to suspect is the wiring harness at the right trunklid hinge. The harness wires have been known to break at the bend at the base of the hinge.
I would suggest posting on 'sebringclub.net', a site dedicated to Sebring/200 convertibles. The contributors are quite knowledgeable and extremely helpful in resolving top issues.
One of the first areas to suspect is the wiring harness at the right trunklid hinge. The harness wires have been known to break at the bend at the base of the hinge.
I would suggest posting on 'sebringclub.net', a site dedicated to Sebring/200 convertibles. The contributors are quite knowledgeable and extremely helpful in resolving top issues.
Last edited by ggoose; 09-04-2022 at 10:21 PM.
#6
There will be a diagnostic trouble code set/stored in the ptcm (power top control module) that will help in diagnosing the problem. Most handheld scanners will not be able to pull dtc's from the ptcm and may require a trip to a dealer (cost up to 1 hour of labor -basic diagnostic fee) or a shop with a more advanced scanner (an auto parts store will not likely be able to pull codes from the ptcm).
One of the first areas to suspect is the wiring harness at the right trunklid hinge. The harness wires have been known to break at the bend at the base of the hinge.
I would suggest posting on 'sebringclub.net', a site dedicated to Sebring/200 convertibles. The contributors are quite knowledgeable and extremely helpful in resolving top issues.
One of the first areas to suspect is the wiring harness at the right trunklid hinge. The harness wires have been known to break at the bend at the base of the hinge.
I would suggest posting on 'sebringclub.net', a site dedicated to Sebring/200 convertibles. The contributors are quite knowledgeable and extremely helpful in resolving top issues.
thanks, will post there.
#7
This is a prime example why "Chrysler Cares" practice of assisting only via PM (Private Message) is NOT helpful to the purposes of this site. Chrysler Cares has access directly to Chrysler engineering (or could if they wanted to pick up the phone). If they would post substantive answers to honest questions instead of hiding behind PM's, all the users of this site could benefit.
#8
This is a prime example why "Chrysler Cares" practice of assisting only via PM (Private Message) is NOT helpful to the purposes of this site. Chrysler Cares has access directly to Chrysler engineering (or could if they wanted to pick up the phone). If they would post substantive answers to honest questions instead of hiding behind PM's, all the users of this site could benefit.
#10
'Top not secured' when the top is closed points to the header latch mechanism at the windshield. There is a microswitch that is triggered when the latches are fully engaged.
I suspect the latching mechanism is not able to complete its full motion possibly due to a weak/failing latch motor. I would suggest removing the header trim panel and lubing all of the pivot points and the slide with a white lithium grease spray (using the red tube). This may restore the full movement needed to trigger the latch microswitch. As a test, try pushing the button in the slide while pulling the top close button to be certain it has completed its full movement and then check if the 'top not secured' message has been replaced with a 'top operation complete'. Hopefully lubing the pivot points and slide will restore full movement and not require replacing the latch motor.
Note the trunk will not unlock remotely if it is believed the top is not secured. Not certain but this may also apply to the defrost.
I suspect the latching mechanism is not able to complete its full motion possibly due to a weak/failing latch motor. I would suggest removing the header trim panel and lubing all of the pivot points and the slide with a white lithium grease spray (using the red tube). This may restore the full movement needed to trigger the latch microswitch. As a test, try pushing the button in the slide while pulling the top close button to be certain it has completed its full movement and then check if the 'top not secured' message has been replaced with a 'top operation complete'. Hopefully lubing the pivot points and slide will restore full movement and not require replacing the latch motor.
Note the trunk will not unlock remotely if it is believed the top is not secured. Not certain but this may also apply to the defrost.
Last edited by ggoose; 09-07-2022 at 08:08 AM.
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