The important thing is that the correct links are positioned at the timing marks. The relative positions of the marks is what is important, not the absolute position at any given time. With the crank timing mark at 12 o'clock, you can't be certain that the correct link will contact the timing mark. The installation procedure specifies that the timing mark be at about 4 o'clock so you can make sure the link is on it. If it's not TDC, that's OK.

 

Still confused one thing you said,," left(front) and right(rear)can you be so kind to clarify that for me since here is how I am looking at it.. if I am standing in front of the engine ( not in front of the car), the two intake camshafts are towards the center of the engine and the the left intake is towards the firewall and the right intake is towards the front of the car so the left would be rear and the right would be front? and in this scenario which is the one that has the chain with the two colored links?, and I am clear about the crankshaft mark been at 4 o'clock. Thanks.

 

When speaking about banks on an engine, "left" and "right" refer to the engine's left and right, not your left and right as you look at it. Consider the way engines used to sit in cars, with the "front" of the engine where the fan and water pump are, and the back of the engine hooked to the transmission. The left side of such an engine would be the side of the engine on the left (driver's) side of the car. As you stand at the front of the car looking at it, the left side of the engine would be at your right, just as your wife's left hand is at your right when you stand looking at her.
Now, turn the engine sideways in a front wheel drive car. The "left" side of the engine is closer to the front of the car. The "front" of the engine faces the right side of the car, but the front of the engine is still where the belts are, and the "back" is still connected to the transmission.
Put the timing mark of the crankshaft sprocket at approximately the four o'clock position (not TDC, you're right about that) and set the camshaft sprockets to the chain links as stated.
Hope that helps.

 

Wow, I was so wrong about that left and right thing, I never thought about it from the engine location perspective but from my own left and right. Its all clear now after that perfect explanation you gave, and thank you so much for taking your time to clarify all this for me, will work on the timing this weekend and will post again sunday night. thxs.

 

Ok I started the engine and I got problems..
The engine started right up but I got lifter noise all over and all the lifter are brand new, I will do a flush to the engine add heavy oil and test the oil pressure and go from there.
the timing chain was a pain in ....I had to remove the chain sprockets cams and everything else about 3 times since I was not satisfied and not totally convince I was doing it right,, for beginners when you set the timing and manually turn the crank, the marks never go back to the original setting you had them, so that was confusing,, so I removed the cams for the last time and set the secondary chains and turned clockwise while I had them on my hands and surely after you turn them they never line up right so I turn them counterclockwise and they did align the marks back ok. Its stupid but it convinced me I was not doing it wrong,,,as far as the position of the cams when you are setting the primary timing chain they go only one way since when you bolt the main sprockets to the cam hubs, the bolts just go in one way into the cam hubs so you can not have the cams but in the right position,

 

the noise is the timing chain has slack until the oil pressure is built up and pushes the guide into position it may take a few min dont worry about lifter noise either unless u had them soaking in tranny oil to fill them they 2 will make noise until pumped up.

 

Great, I let the engine run for a few minutes and right now its sounds like a swiss watch. Over all I think this engine is very easy to do, once you understand the timing chain setting, it has a lot of room to work, the intake and the fuel injectors are so easy to get to, once you remove the air filter and the intake and the valve covers you have a lot of room to work, the oil pan is very easy to remove also and at the timing chain cover and its components there is also plenty of room.
Thank You all for your advise very much appreciated.

 

I love stories with happy endings.

 

The most common fault for a head gasket job not holding up, other than faulty installation, is the re-use of head bolts and not using the proper coolant.

 

Considering your time, effort and expence not to mention the frustration and stress, (been there) would it not just be better and easier to get a replacement engine from the wreckers? Just a thought. Good luck in your endeavours. BTW, the car looks great.