Chrysler 300, 300C & 300C SRT-8 The flagship of the Chrysler lineup offers the driver every bit of class of any European luxury sedan, combined with the availability of the Hemi, the engine which dominated the American Muscle Car Era

Electrical Shorts and Auto Shutdown

  #1  
Old 08-10-2018, 07:26 PM
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Default Electrical Shorts and Auto Shutdown

I am at a complete loss on my 2006 Chrysler 300 SRT8. Back in early July I had an electrical short which caused the car to stall in a very remote area with no cell phone signal. Fuse 15 kept blowing. Each time I would replace the fuse and try and start the car again, it would blow the new one. I went through 3 ot 4 20AMP fuses before I gave up. Back in December 2017, I had been having a similar problem, but I replaced the coils and plugs, and the car ran just fine after that for a solid 6 months. Nothing more was done to the car. After the last unexpected shut down with no codes or warnings beforehand, I purchased a new Front Power Distribution and Front Power Control Module and replaced the older one.After the replacement, the car started up just fine and stayed running without blowing the Ignition/Coil Fuse 15. I turned it off, and then a few minutes later went out to start it again thinking I would go to the grocery store and it popped Fuse 15 again. In an attempt to find the circuit which may have been shorting the Ignition/Coil fuse, I started pulling all non-essential fuses such as headlights, high-beams, etc. (except the diodes and breakers) and then attempted to restart the car with a new Ignition Coil fuse. The car started, but the Auto Shutdown light started flashing, and no matter what I did, I could not get the car to recognize my key. It would start up, stay running for 2 seconds, then shut off. I had it towed to the service department at the Chrysler dealer near me, and after 3 weeks and $150.00, they advised I could spend $1,100 to replace the Receiver (the wireless receiver around the ignition key in the dash) as this MIGHT be what is causing the short in the electrical system, but no guarantee. Basically they were unable to locate the problem even with all of the equipment they had. I declined and opted to replace it myself since it was fairly easy and only cost $145.00 through a Mopar dealer. After installing it and checking all of the fuses, that stupid security light in the dash keeps flashing and I cannot get past it no matter what I do. My key faub no longer locks and unlocks the doors, and my engine will not start.

Here is what I have done to try to remedy it, and this is per the instructions of the Mopar parts dealer:
  1. Remove the key from the ignition
  2. Remove the IOD fuse in the trunk's power distribution for 30 seconds.
  3. Plug the IOD fuse back in
  4. Now put the key back in and try to start it.
That information above did not work.

How do I get past this auto-shutdown light so that the car recognizes my key as legitimate? Is there a computer adapter / software utility I can purchase to clear out any errors in the PCM and set up the computer to recognize my key as legitimate?

Is there a way to bypass that auto-shutdown feature without wrecking all of the electronics on the car? I've noticed there are many complaints and problems with the wireless receiver and I'm not alone, but I need my car to run without fear it will shut down due to some component like this failing.

Are there any suggestions on how to solve this?

Thank you.

 
  #2  
Old 08-11-2018, 01:18 AM
CHRYSLER TECH's Avatar
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that little wireless controller you replaced they forgot to tell you that it needs to be programmed to the car and all your keys programmed to it. So you get to toe it to a dealer to have them do that for you.
 
  #3  
Old 08-11-2018, 10:57 PM
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Thank you for the feedback. It looks like you are correct and there was no way for me to do this in my garage. I took it to the service department at my local Chrysler dealer and they got it to sync up. It was a $50.00 charge, so not too bad, but the downside was I had to pay the towing company to haul it there, and for less than 4 miles, cost me an additional $85.00. In the future if I ever need this done again, I'll plan on spending $135.00 to have my key reprogrammed.
 
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