I installed the new Throttle body sensor but the truck still stalls after replacing the part. Has anyone tried replacing the evaporation vent solenoid? I was looking into the ORVR issue that calamity coyote brought up and came across this site https://www.yourmechanic.com/questio...r-can-by-chris. I'm also looking into replacing the map sensor suggested by grbullets in a mean time. Since that part is fairly inexpensive and I'm confident I can do the install myself I dont mind giving it a go. With that said I think we can all agree the problem lies somewhere within the emissions system.

 

I was afraid the Throttle Body would not take care of it. I pulled mine off a few years back when this started and cleaned it thoroughly with carb cleaner. Didn't change a thing. I agree that the problem lies within the emissions system. I truly believe since it only happens after fueling in the heat, (and the more fuel you take on the worse it gets) that it is within the tank system itself which points to the ORVR even more. Just too bad you can't get this part by itself or I would of already swapped it to try.

 

Hi, I started having the issue last winter but I did get code p0456 (I think) and followed calamity coyote's advice on replacing the ESIM first before spending hundreds, days later the check engine light came on again I would clear the code and drive a few days (we don't drive that much) and the code came back.
I was very frustrated but decided to "test" up/down the line of the evap system, found a video suggesting the replacement of the egr valve (? the plastic thing by the firewall behind the resonator box, to get to it I had to remove the box and while at it decide to clean the Throttle body as well, removed the valve and instead of replacing it (didn't order it) I cleaned with break cleaner then I realized I should use the throttle cleaner, did the cleaning and proceeded to put everything back, I noticed that the throttle connection had the little plastic lock broken so when I inserted the harness end, it will slightly slip back out, so the car would not run, I would turn it on and it will growl and shake and the lighting bolt and check engine light light up and then the ESP (?) the one that looks like a car sliding.

At first I thought I didn't installed the resonator box properly so I took it apart and tried again, nothing, then I read that the I should re-learn the throttle body sensor(?) but nothing, so I put some tape on the connector to keep it in place and relearned the throttle because by then the battery was off for half a day.

The car run like new..for a couple of days..:-(

I removed the connector and put some seal silicone (didn't want to use crazy glue since I might have to buy a new part) let it cure overnight and next morning the car started and is being running for a week already, mind you very short trips only 50KM since "fix" but it idles like new and runs smoother than last summer/fall.

I started using the miracle additive suggested by calamity coyote and also noticed an increase in fuel economy (if you can cal it that).

So, I suggest to check harnesses and wires to ensure a low power signal is not causing the codes ( I also got the p1222 code).
Apparently, items inside the engine compartment tent to deteriorate due to the constant exposure to heat.

I had a jeep commander and she would not turn on erratically, no rime or reason or codes, after investigating it had something to do with a ground wire being rusted, I cleaned every wire I could find and coated it wit dialectic grease, the car run with out problems until a minivan decide to make a u-turn in front of it..

I hope this helps some.

Thanks for your time.

2007 Aspen with the HEMI..

 

I've had this problem as well..not while driving though.
Mine occurs when refueling and just sitting waiting on gas pump ***while the engine is running***.
Put gas cap back on and within 20 sec., stalls..restarts again..This is now my procedure I do when fueling.. Turn off the engine then fuel.
This , I believe, is within the evap system losing pressure to switch back for recirc.to regular vapor pressure. Went ahead and replace the gas cap as well.
Get the same result if don't turn the gas cap 3 or more clicks to seal,sound soo silly, but true.This can cause the "gas cap" indicator on..and tighten the cap and notice about 2 miles down the road the ind. is off
also can cause PO 4*** code to set. I just clear it

 

By chance you mean the Vapor Canister Purge Valve? Mounted by firewall under the wiper cowl next to the brake booster? Has one electrical connector and two vacuum hoses. Disconnecting the hoses can be a pain. I just recently replaced mine. Although it's been running alright if I don't let the fuel lever get below 1/2 and I use the additive but I swapped it anyway. I will be using a new additive once I run out of the Berrymann's. Switching over to STA-BIL 360 Marine Ethanol Treatment which was recommend by a local lawn mower repairman. Said it was much better than Barryman's and the reviews for it were off the chart. I'll monitor any changes from new Purge Valve and new additive and report back.







You should not be fueling while the engine is running. Says this right on the pumps and in the manual. From manual "Never add fuel when the engine is running. This is in violation of most state and federal fire regulations and may cause the Malfunction Indicator Light to turn on."

 

So I just read this thread, I'm experiencing almost the exact same issue. I'll be sitting at a light, the RPMs would be jumpy and the vehicle would die. I've had it happen 1 time while driving and all the other times while sitting at a light/driveway.. I have yet to figure out what is causing it.. I have replaced the Idle Control sensor already, that has not fixed it.

 

Does it mainly happen after fueling up? Probably the ORVR as I explained in post #21. My issue has decreased a lot since not allowing it to get below half a tank and using the fuel additives. I haven't had an episode in some time now.

**UPDATE**

Just saw the other thread you have "https://www.chryslerforum.com/forum/chrysler-aspen-41/2007-weird-idle-random-dies-driving-32373/#post117910". You are actually getting codes related to Mass Air Flow / Throttle Position. Our shut downs are not generating codes. Just stalls out. So I think your issue is different. I would follow the codes for your issue.

 

I haven't noticed. I haven't filled up in a week or so, sitting at 1/2 tank right now. It happened to me yesterday. Weird RPMs and then died, threw code P0068 MAP/MAF Throttle Position Correlation -- I ordered a TPS and MAP Sensor to swap in this weekend.