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2008 Chrysler Aspen 5.7 Hemi start failure

  #1  
Old 05-18-2019, 11:21 PM
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Default 2008 Chrysler Aspen 5.7 Hemi start failure

Looking for some direction on an electrical failure when trying to start my aspen. Situation Details as follows.

2008 Chrysler aspen. 5.7 hemi. Went to start it other day. Put the key in all lights came on as normal, went to turn starter all electrical power shuts down after hearing 1 click in engine compartment and stays shut down. No dome lights, radio. Nothing. Goofed around battery terminals, electric power turns back on, go to turn it over, same thing repeats. Thot battery might be bad, hooked up jumper cables. Goofed with battery, electric power back on, go to turn, clicks multiple times than shuts down completely. No power at all. Goofed w battery, electric power back on. Did the code reset thingy for Chryslerís. Turned right over as normal. Tested battery at 92% charge when I got home. Drove normal few days (other than a weird idle when parked). Went to drive it yesterday, same thing all over except now when I reset code, it doesnít start at all now. One click, all power turns off. Like the whole system is shorting out. Got an error code p3449. Which is tied to cylinder 7 misfire. But Iím trying to figure out why all power shuts down to vehicle? Which I think is whole separate issue. I did order a new starter relay, ignition coils and plugs to start the process of elimination.

if anyone has had this situation, please share your remedy.

 
  #2  
Old 05-19-2019, 12:23 PM
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You say you tested battery at 92%. Was this just a voltage check with a meter or did you do a battery "crank test"? The CCA is what is important for starting the vehicle. Even if the battery shows 12+ volts, if the CCA is bad on the battery, it won't start. This can be checked at a local auto parts store (autozone, o'rielly) if you don't have the proper test meter.

P3449 is not a misfire code. It is a MDS solenoid failure code for cylinder 7. This should only give you a check engine light and deactivate the cylinder deactivation mode on all cylinders (Fuel Saver mode). It should not cause the truck to not start. Due to the fact that you say you "Mess" with the cables at the battery and get varying results makes me think you have intermittent power connection. Either a bad/corroded connection at the terminals themselves or you have corrosion within the cable somewhere. The battery itself could also have bad internal connections. I've seen situations before where you can strip back the wire shielding and find the cable inside completely overtaken by corrosion and therefore stopping the flow of power. First thing I would do is check continuity with a digital meter. Need to check the power side as well as the ground side. Chances are you either have a bad battery terminal connection or a bad wire. I would start here before changing out a bunch of components.
 
  #3  
Old 05-19-2019, 07:13 PM
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Yes sounds like bad connection or corrosion of cables or posts on battery.
 
  #4  
Old 05-19-2019, 07:13 PM
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Originally Posted by calamity coyote View Post
You say you tested battery at 92%. Was this just a voltage check with a meter or did you do a battery "crank test"? The CCA is what is important for starting the vehicle. Even if the battery shows 12+ volts, if the CCA is bad on the battery, it won't start. This can be checked at a local auto parts store (autozone, o'rielly) if you don't have the proper test meter.

P3449 is not a misfire code. It is a MDS solenoid failure code for cylinder 7. This should only give you a check engine light and deactivate the cylinder deactivation mode on all cylinders (Fuel Saver mode). It should not cause the truck to not start. Due to the fact that you say you "Mess" with the cables at the battery and get varying results makes me think you have intermittent power connection. Either a bad/corroded connection at the terminals themselves or you have corrosion within the cable somewhere. The battery itself could also have bad internal connections. I've seen situations before where you can strip back the wire shielding and find the cable inside completely overtaken by corrosion and therefore stopping the flow of power. First thing I would do is check continuity with a digital meter. Need to check the power side as well as the ground side. Chances are you either have a bad battery terminal connection or a bad wire. I would start here before changing out a bunch of components.
Thanks for quick response. Battery is good (less than 3 months old), terminals are clean and tight. What I meant by goofed around battery is that I removed negative terminal, waited 30 seconds and reconnected. What I meant by 92% is that that it doesnít drain when starting, 12.4 volts constant (every time I check). No visible corrosion on any connections. Iím fairly confident thereís a short in the system somewhere.
 
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Old 05-19-2019, 07:28 PM
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Also. Had someone here to turn ignition over for me this eve, the (one) click sound comes from behind the motor, (from starter) system shorts immediately after one click. Another bit of info I forgot to put in original post. For last month or so, every so often when starting, the ignition would stick open (starter stay engaged after engine start) I would have to turn off and restart it. Reason I ordered the relay. Reason I ordered ignition coils is because of rough idle itís had for awhile. And vehicle has 265k miles on it and Iím fairly certain theyíve never been changed. FYI.
 
  #6  
Old 05-20-2019, 12:24 PM
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Sounds like it could be the starter/solenoid; I think they are together in the starter on these models.
 
  #7  
Old 05-22-2019, 06:47 PM
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Update: had battery cleaned (terminals had a black residue on them) never drops below 12.3 amps, installed new starter and starter relay. Checked all fuses related to ignition. Actually checked ALL fuses in process. Checked auto shutdown relay as well.

changes, (1) power doesnít completely shut down now. Clicking sounds are now coming from all over the place. Under steering wheel next to fuse box, from power distribution under hood and from starter area. Still no attempt by starter to turn. After turning on a few time to ID clicking locations, those went away and a little red blinking light in instrument panel came on and wouldnít go off even with keys removed and door opened. Had to disconnect battery to turn it off. Amps still at 12.3. Now headlights or interior lights wonít turn on either, but the chime sound comes on when keys in ignition?

Still checking other forums. Havnt found anything like this issue.
 
  #8  
Old 05-22-2019, 11:17 PM
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Originally Posted by ssittingbear View Post
Update: had battery cleaned (terminals had a black residue on them) never drops below 12.3 amps, installed new starter and starter relay. Checked all fuses related to ignition. Actually checked ALL fuses in process. Checked auto shutdown relay as well.

changes, (1) power doesnít completely shut down now. Clicking sounds are now coming from all over the place. Under steering wheel next to fuse box, from power distribution under hood and from starter area. Still no attempt by starter to turn. After turning on a few time to ID clicking locations, those went away and a little red blinking light in instrument panel came on and wouldnít go off even with keys removed and door opened. Had to disconnect battery to turn it off. Amps still at 12.3. Now headlights or interior lights wonít turn on either, but the chime sound comes on when keys in ignition?

Still checking other forums. Havnt found anything like this issue.
Have you checked the cables going to and from the battery? Maybe it's shorting out somewhere?
 
  #9  
Old 05-22-2019, 11:25 PM
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I went thru with flashlight and looked for anything out of the ordinary. Everything looks good as far as wiring. All have protective covers. Nothing rubbing thru.
 
  #10  
Old 05-27-2019, 12:39 PM
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Took battery in and had it checked at two different places. Battery is good to go. Been doing continuous research and found some helpful info on carboncleaningusa.com. all the symptoms my vehicle has been having are listed on a ECU failure post they have site, things I thought were completely separate issues. Such as a light jerk when shifting around, (only happens sometimes.) intermittent electrical issues. So Thatís going to be my next step, Iíll report back later this week.

Heres a link if anyone is having same issues
https://www.carboncleaningusa.com/fa...er/aspen-5-7-l
 
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