I have a broken off manifold bolt, drivers side, furthest one back. Very common in these. It ticks and then goes away after a min like you said.

I tried to get it out, but ran out of time. I'll try again someday when I am bored.

 

Sounds like previous owner didn't pay attention to maintenance.


I've noticed slight sloppiness in mine as well. I attribute it to being an SUV. Nothing like my Honda Accord. Any slight movement in the steering wheel would put you in the next lane on that one. Of course, I have heard reports of issues with Dodge/Chrysler front ends. Not only on the Aspen/Durango, but their pickups as well. Since you've already replaced the bushings and end links, you should be good to go for a while. As far as shocks, general consensuses I've read is Bilsteins for stiffer/towing purposes and Monroe Sensa tracks for smooth/non towing conditions.


Haven't ran across either of these yet. Thankfully.


The full time AWD comes in handy in the snow and ice. When I took mine up to Colorado during the winter, I tried several times to bring the rear end around by punching the throttle while turning. Couldn't do it. Now trying to stop suddenly would slide of course. LOL. Biggest issue is the fuel economy. Since you can't turn it off, it burns more fuel than what it would if you could run in 2wd.

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I couldn't find any info on the awd system in the factory brochure how does it work?
Is it electronically applied or always on?
What does the 4wd lock detent do on the 4wd ****?
Also I haven't tried yet but to get into low do I have to start with transmission in Neutral then switch to 4wd lo?

Thanks

 

Thanks for the clear picture. We just had our first snow storm so it will be awhile before I am able to inspect mines.

Do you plan on using an extractor or welding a nut to it and using a wrench/socket to remove it?

 

Information for the transfer case is found on page 280 in the owners manual. If you do not have the owners manual, let me know and I'll see if I can upload the electronic PDF file I have on it.

It depends on which transfer case you have (NV140 or NV244). The NV140 is a single speed (4 HI only) which provides full-time 4wd. The transfer case divides power with about 48% to the front and 52% to the rear.

The NV244 is an electric-shift case controlled by the switch on the dash. It provides 4 modes (normal 4wd hi range, 4wd lock, 4wd low and neutral. Under normal 4wd hi range, the transfer case allows the front and rear to rotate at different speeds based on road conditions which eliminates driveline binding and component wear. 4WD lock and 4wd low, locks both the front and rear together.

As for shifting to neutral: Page 361 of manual
1) bring vehicle to a complete stop
2) shut off engine
3) turn ignition key to on position without starting engine.
4) press brake pedal
5) shift transmission to neutral
6) use ball point pin or similar object to press the NEUTRAL button for four seconds
7) after shift is completed and the NEUTRAL light comes on the dash, release the NEUTRAL button
8) start the engine
9) shift transmission in to REVERSE
10) release brake pedal for five seconds and ensure that their is no vehicle movement
11) repeat steps 9 & 10 with transmission in drive
12) turn ignition key to the unlocked off position
13) shift transmission into park
14) attach vehicle to tow vehicle with tow bar.

To turn off NEUTRAL tow:
1) bring vehicle to complete stop
2) shut off engine
3) turn key on without engine start
4) press brake pedal
5) shift transmission to NEUTRAL
6) using ballpoint pen or similar object, press the NEUTRAL button for one second
7) after the NEUTRAL indicator light turns off, release the NEUTRAL button
8) after the NEUTRAL button has been released, the transfer case will shift to the position identified by the selector switch
9) shift the transmission into park
10) start the engine
11) shift the transmission into drive

 

I'm going to try to extract it with a left bit and extractor. I'm trying to avoid taking the full maninfold off. If I do have to take the manifold off, the bolt will be easy to get out though, as it almost flush with the manifold, meaning it's sticking out about 1/4". I can't get a nut on there, as it sits right now.