Replacement Shocks
#21
04-26-2011, 11:14 AM
^ I've checked, and the Reflexes run ~ $40-45 on Amazon. Free shipping! If buying locally (AAP), search the internet for coupons. I've bought a lot of things online from Advance for 40% off. Buy/pay online, and pick up in store. I have a stash of PureOne oil filters bought @ $3/ea. this way, etc.
#23
04-27-2011, 09:17 AM
I have never done shocks either. From what I read, it's pretty simple. If you have jacks & stands, you just have to remove the wheels, and 2 nuts/bolts for the shocks. No alignment is necessary. I doubt you'll find a "how to" on here, but the process would be similar for any vehicle.
#24
04-28-2011, 06:47 AM
I'd be more than happy to give a quick walkthrough...
First off, leaving the tires on, or jacking the truck up in the back is optional. You can get under the rear of the car and do everything you need to with the tires on if you'd like. We'll start on the rear passenger side.
There are 2 sides to the bolt on the bottoms of the rear shocks. You'll need to grab both sides to loosen the bolt/nut or else it will simply spin. The top of the shock has one bolt that you can loosen, as the other side has a locking metal tab that will keep it from spinning freely. Loosen that as well, and remove. You can now take the shock out. Don't worry, these aren't like springs and aren't under any kind of pressure.
Now you can install your new shock. I've always had luck installing the top first, just because it's the hardest nut to get to, but I guess you can do it either way. Getting that locking tab to line up with the bolt again is a bit of a pain just because it's hard to get a good angle to see it. It may be easier if you jack the rear up, but as I stated earlier, I didn't. Get the top tightened down, but don't torque it down yet.
The bottom of the shock is where it takes a bit of trial and error (or frustration). You'll need to compress it about 3 of 4 inches to get it to line up with the bottom mount. I just press it up to about 1 or 2 inches above the mount, then try to slide the bolt in as it's coming back down. This takes some strength, so if you can't swing it, maybe try jacking the bottom of the shock up until it lines up. Once you get it lined up and the bolt in, torque the bolt/nut down all the way. Then move to the top and torque that down. You're done now.
(Note: I'm using the word "torque", but you don't need a torque wrench for this. You'll just want to tighten the bolts on the mounts so that they're tight, then try to take it another 1/4 turn. These bolts and nuts are constantly under pressure from your shock and are more of a coarse thread design, so they won't be going ANYWHERE)
You can use the same procedure for the Driver's side, but the difference is that you'll need to drop the spare. You simply can't get to the top bolt on the Driver's side without dropping it. It doesn't take but a minute or 2.
The front shocks are identical to put in, so I'll only cover one side. You'll note that these shocks should be noticeably shorter than the rears, so if they're not, you may have the wrong shocks.
Jack up one side of the truck with your jack, and rest it on the frame on jack stands. You'll need the jack itself while installing the shock, so you can't leave it sit on the jack.
Remove the lug nuts, and take the wheel off. In my case, the wheel was actually somewhat "tacked" onto the hub with a bit of rust. In other words, I removed the lug nuts, and tried to remove the wheel, but it seemed like something else was holding the wheel on. It wasn't, and if you have the same problem, I'd try lowing the truck back to the ground with the lug nuts off, and wheel still on. This seemed to break it loose a bit. Anyway, I digress...
Remove the bottom bolt of the shock. This shouldn't have a nut on the other side; it should just be a thru bolt. Once that is off, remove the top. This has a bolt and nut, so you'll need 2 wrenches/sockets. Remove these and remove the shock. Once you get the old shock out, install the top of the new shock first and tighten your bolt to snug, but don't torque it.
Now, here's where you'll need the jack. You may notice when you go to put on your new shock, that it doesn't line up. This is because your wheel hub assembly will have dropped a bit after removing the old shock. Place the jack under the lower control arm and jack it up a few inches, or until it lines up with the new shock. Install your thru bolt, and torque down. Then torque down your top, reinstall your wheel, and you're done this side. As stated earlier, this procedure is the same for both front shocks.
If you have any questions/concerns, give a holler.
First off, leaving the tires on, or jacking the truck up in the back is optional. You can get under the rear of the car and do everything you need to with the tires on if you'd like. We'll start on the rear passenger side.
There are 2 sides to the bolt on the bottoms of the rear shocks. You'll need to grab both sides to loosen the bolt/nut or else it will simply spin. The top of the shock has one bolt that you can loosen, as the other side has a locking metal tab that will keep it from spinning freely. Loosen that as well, and remove. You can now take the shock out. Don't worry, these aren't like springs and aren't under any kind of pressure.
Now you can install your new shock. I've always had luck installing the top first, just because it's the hardest nut to get to, but I guess you can do it either way. Getting that locking tab to line up with the bolt again is a bit of a pain just because it's hard to get a good angle to see it. It may be easier if you jack the rear up, but as I stated earlier, I didn't. Get the top tightened down, but don't torque it down yet.
The bottom of the shock is where it takes a bit of trial and error (or frustration). You'll need to compress it about 3 of 4 inches to get it to line up with the bottom mount. I just press it up to about 1 or 2 inches above the mount, then try to slide the bolt in as it's coming back down. This takes some strength, so if you can't swing it, maybe try jacking the bottom of the shock up until it lines up. Once you get it lined up and the bolt in, torque the bolt/nut down all the way. Then move to the top and torque that down. You're done now.
(Note: I'm using the word "torque", but you don't need a torque wrench for this. You'll just want to tighten the bolts on the mounts so that they're tight, then try to take it another 1/4 turn. These bolts and nuts are constantly under pressure from your shock and are more of a coarse thread design, so they won't be going ANYWHERE)
You can use the same procedure for the Driver's side, but the difference is that you'll need to drop the spare. You simply can't get to the top bolt on the Driver's side without dropping it. It doesn't take but a minute or 2.
The front shocks are identical to put in, so I'll only cover one side. You'll note that these shocks should be noticeably shorter than the rears, so if they're not, you may have the wrong shocks.
Jack up one side of the truck with your jack, and rest it on the frame on jack stands. You'll need the jack itself while installing the shock, so you can't leave it sit on the jack.
Remove the lug nuts, and take the wheel off. In my case, the wheel was actually somewhat "tacked" onto the hub with a bit of rust. In other words, I removed the lug nuts, and tried to remove the wheel, but it seemed like something else was holding the wheel on. It wasn't, and if you have the same problem, I'd try lowing the truck back to the ground with the lug nuts off, and wheel still on. This seemed to break it loose a bit. Anyway, I digress...
Remove the bottom bolt of the shock. This shouldn't have a nut on the other side; it should just be a thru bolt. Once that is off, remove the top. This has a bolt and nut, so you'll need 2 wrenches/sockets. Remove these and remove the shock. Once you get the old shock out, install the top of the new shock first and tighten your bolt to snug, but don't torque it.
Now, here's where you'll need the jack. You may notice when you go to put on your new shock, that it doesn't line up. This is because your wheel hub assembly will have dropped a bit after removing the old shock. Place the jack under the lower control arm and jack it up a few inches, or until it lines up with the new shock. Install your thru bolt, and torque down. Then torque down your top, reinstall your wheel, and you're done this side. As stated earlier, this procedure is the same for both front shocks.
If you have any questions/concerns, give a holler.
#25
04-29-2011, 10:16 AM
^ Very nice! Thanks for taking the time time to write that up. That helps a lot. I will probably wait a year or so to do mine, because I only have 14k now. It's very nice to know that you don't have to jack the rear + remove wheels/tires. That will save some time.
#28
04-29-2011, 09:22 PM
Not a prob... That was going from memory, so if you have any questions, feel free to PM or reply.
I currently have KYB Gas-a-justs on our 2003 Jeep Liberty rear. They were great for the first 20,000 miles, but they're really starting to fade fast now. I imagine they'd do a lot worse on a heavier vehicle like the Aspen.
I currently have KYB Gas-a-justs on our 2003 Jeep Liberty rear. They were great for the first 20,000 miles, but they're really starting to fade fast now. I imagine they'd do a lot worse on a heavier vehicle like the Aspen.
#29
05-02-2011, 10:31 AM
For those who have replaced their shock with Bilsteins. Are they really that firm/hard when driven empty? I know it will be firmer than stock but is it uncomfortaable? I am just trying to get a feel or idea on hoe firm it will be as I am thinking of changing the shocks with Bilstein.
Thanks for your input.
Thanks for your input.
#30
05-03-2011, 06:36 AM
In my experience, the Bilsteins are firm. This does NOT mean they're uncomfortable. In fact, I think just the opposite. They don't leave you bouncing up and down over every bump like you're on a water bed, and they drastically improve handling over OEM. I have other vehicles to off-road with, so I don't take the Aspen off-road. I don't want to mess it up in any way, so I can't give experiences from that aspect. However, on-road experiences are that they are like night and day from OEM.