yeah that a good idea.or you could take to dealer,that should be covered.it either 12,000 or 36,000.not 100% sure

 

See https://www.chryslerforum.com/m_15253/tm.htm

Easy swap out done today.

 

Changing my bulbs turned out to be just as much a pain as everyone described here for the most part.
The ball socket was the worse part but after I figured out where it was it wasn't too bad. I sprayed a little liquid wrench on the ball socket to help things out. Then I used a long screwdriver to gently pry the assembly out.
The nut you have to remove on the back of the assembly is a bit of a pain as well and I dropped my wrench into the abyss and had to loosen the fender liner so I could retrieve it.

All in all after learning how to do it I'm confident I could get it done in just a few minutes the next time.

JT

 

Thanks to all who replied to this thread. Without reading this I would have never figured this out. Spent about two hours this morning trying to get the head light housing away from the grill/fender. Like many replied, removed the top bolts, remove the nut through the access panel in the wheel well but couldn't get the housing out. I re-read the instructions posted and the key is appling pressure straight forward. With nothing to hold on to this was difficult. I accomplished this by using a 14" prybar directly behind the center of the light housing. The ball assembly forms a snap connection in the body that needs to be released. Care was taken to make sure no wires were in the path and slight constant pressure between the housing and the metal frame was all it took to release the snap connection. After housing removal, the repair took less than 5 minutes. To re-install, line everything up and give the center of the housing a solid push to re-snap the ball assembly.

 

To those that could not get it right, there is no need to remove the Headlight Housing and all the bolts to change out a simple headlight bulb.
Tools required:
Long Flat Screwdriver
Small Pliers
Small Flashlight
New Headlight Bulb
2 Minutes

1-I put a flashlight in the flap in the fender and flipped the red retaining tab back from above with a long flat screwdriver.
2- Looking from above thu some holes I put my hand in the Fender Flap and pulled the 3 pin connector off the rear of the Headlight bulb.
3= Again, Hand in Flap in Fender I turned the Headlight Bulb 30 Deg Anticlockwise (with Pliers) and removed the old bulb.
4- Reverse the pocedure for installing the New Headlight Bulb.

Easy - to do - Pass onto other owners.
Richard
2007 Aspen

 

I changed mine a few weeks ago. I undid a few bolts/screws on the plastic liner over the drivers side wheel. This lets you see the back nut location. I did spray wd40 on it as it had some grit on it. I broke that stupid trap door on both sides but I keep a few scraps of an old black plastic garbage can which comes in really handy. I cut the piece to fit and used 4 scews to hold it over the hole once done.
After you undo the top two bolts it takes a bit of firm pulling to get it out. Not much to grab and you have to wiggle it to get a grip. Pinched my fingers a few times but didn't use anything else but my hands to get it out. The whole assembly will eventually pop straight out. Broke the stupid plastic tab on the bulb socket - really flimsy so watch yours.
Took me about an hour to do the first side and 15 minutes to do the passenger side. Just undo the top 2 bolts, open the back flap and put a socket on the end of 6-8" extension and feel for the nut. Sorry can't remember the socket size (10mm ?) I turned my wheels to make access easier.

 

Good reading. Glad I found this thread before attempting to replace my headlamp bulbs with brighter ones.

I'd like to replace with something like the Sylvania Silverstars. Is there a special type or number I should be looking for? If not the Silvestars, what's another very bright headlamp that is a simple swap for stock?

 

There are some good options on Amazon.com

 

I subscribe to Consumers Reports and they tested a bunch of those high priced replacement bulbs. They found that most of the claims of increased light distance were unfounded. What they did find was that many of them were brighter to oncoming traffic but the benefit to the driver wasn't worth the extra money. I put Silverstars in mine last year and "thought" I could see further down the road but wouldn't put any money on it. All bulbs fade over time so the best thing to do is replace them in pairs when you notice that your visibility down road is poor. So spending $20 every 5 years is a bit better than $50-$70. I've found the best way to increase down road visibility is to install driving lights at the top of bumper level. Unfortunately it usually means drilling holes in the bumper and may detract from the resale value later, but if you're looking for more light it really works. One other option is to buy a wiring kit that lets you have both the highs and lows on when you switch to high beam.

 

It's 18 degrees, and I just spent 3 hours trying to change a headlight!
This is ridiculous, and I hope the engineer who came up with this gets his tuition refunded.

I finally got it thanks to answers to this thread.
DISREGARD THE USERS MANUAL!
DISREGARD ALL POSTS WITH COPIES OF THE USER MANUAL.
Perhaps the person who wrote the manual should be forced to change a bulb before writing instructions like that.

What worked?
Turn the wheels away from the vehicle,
open the access door in the wheel well.
Open the Hood
Under the hood, above where the headlight is there is a round access hole
if you shine a light at the right angle you will see the back of the lamp
there is a RED tab. Using a long screwdriver slide the red tab back away from the headlight.
now kneel next to the wheel and reach up inside and by feel find the connector on the back of the light. On top of the connector is a tab that you have to press to release the catch while pulling the connector off. this step is not easy but it works.
Once the connector comes off reach back in grabbing the bulb socket and turn counter clockwise until bulb comes out. (Mine would not budge so I had to use a small pair of slip joint pliers to turn the bulb).
Reverse to install the new bulb.
I coated the bulbs base with dielectric (bulb) grease and was able to turn the new one without the pliers.

Sorry if this isn't as clear as it could be, but I'm not paid to write User Manuals, and I'm pretty sure this is better than the job Chrysler did.