04 AWD Pacifica has Clunk from the front
#11
12-19-2011, 08:56 PM
Front end clunk
My 04 Pacifica has been a beautiful ride. About a year ago, I began to hear that "clunk" in the front, too. I took it to four mechanics, and none could find the problem. Finally, I looked at it myself and found the worn bushings on the sway bar. After replacing them, the ride is smooth again. BTW, it has 173,000!
#12
12-20-2011, 10:07 AM
My 04 Pacifica has been a beautiful ride. About a year ago, I began to hear that "clunk" in the front, too. I took it to four mechanics, and none could find the problem. Finally, I looked at it myself and found the worn bushings on the sway bar. After replacing them, the ride is smooth again. BTW, it has 173,000!
#13
12-21-2011, 11:15 AM
Clunk came from sway bar bushing
Quote from pimp2k6:
Did you do this on your own or take it to the mechanic to fix? I have the same knock and its driving me nuts, so I was planning to tackle it over the holidays. Thanks
----
I had a mechanic do the work as I just didn't have the time.
For some tips on doing it yourself, see the earlier post by djetelina.
I hope it solves the problem!
Did you do this on your own or take it to the mechanic to fix? I have the same knock and its driving me nuts, so I was planning to tackle it over the holidays. Thanks
----
I had a mechanic do the work as I just didn't have the time.
For some tips on doing it yourself, see the earlier post by djetelina.
I hope it solves the problem!
#14
01-03-2012, 12:11 PM
Have a '05 Pac, FWD, with 125k miles. Has been a great car, but for the last 35k miles or so it developed a "clunking" sound when hitting small bumps in the road. Sounded like someone kicking the floor pan, up near the front wheels.
Decided to change out the Sway Bar end links, $50 from O'Reilly auto parts for a pair w/ lifetime warranty. This fixed the problem maybe 25%. With the end link off, I could grap the bar and move it slightly, this created a bumping sound since the sway bar bushings were evidently worn out.
Next I decided to change out the Sway Bar Bushings myself. Bushings not available from local auto parts, had to get from my Chry dealer, cost was $18 for the pair.
THIS FIXED THE PROBLEM 100%, CAR IS NOW SUPER QUIET ONCE AGAIN.
Tips & Tricks should you wish to do this yourself:
1_ The bolts which hold the sway bar bushing bracket in place have a 15mm head. Obtain 1 or more 15mm box end and open end wrenches in advance.
A long wrench to get the bolts broke free, a shorter one to spin them off.
Maybe a 15mm "ratchet end wrench" as well. (a reg socket set will not help at all)
2_ Do the passenger side first, it is slightly easier.
3_ You will have to be prepared to remove the tie rod end from the stearing knuckle (use a tie rod fork tool, try not to rip the tie rod rubber boot up)
4_ You can do one side at a time; (the Chry repair book says to take both wheels off and do the work simultaneously on each end)
5_Should you desire to go w/ an aftermarket bushing set, the sway bar OD is 1 1/16".
The Center-to-Center bolts used to hold the bracket is about 3 5/8".
The bracked height is 2 1/4" overall.
Link to Chrysler Pacifica Shop Manual, how to replace sway bar bushings: Chrysler Pacifica Stabilizer Bar Bushing Replacement
Decided to change out the Sway Bar end links, $50 from O'Reilly auto parts for a pair w/ lifetime warranty. This fixed the problem maybe 25%. With the end link off, I could grap the bar and move it slightly, this created a bumping sound since the sway bar bushings were evidently worn out.
Next I decided to change out the Sway Bar Bushings myself. Bushings not available from local auto parts, had to get from my Chry dealer, cost was $18 for the pair.
THIS FIXED THE PROBLEM 100%, CAR IS NOW SUPER QUIET ONCE AGAIN.
Tips & Tricks should you wish to do this yourself:
1_ The bolts which hold the sway bar bushing bracket in place have a 15mm head. Obtain 1 or more 15mm box end and open end wrenches in advance.
A long wrench to get the bolts broke free, a shorter one to spin them off.
Maybe a 15mm "ratchet end wrench" as well. (a reg socket set will not help at all)
2_ Do the passenger side first, it is slightly easier.
3_ You will have to be prepared to remove the tie rod end from the stearing knuckle (use a tie rod fork tool, try not to rip the tie rod rubber boot up)
4_ You can do one side at a time; (the Chry repair book says to take both wheels off and do the work simultaneously on each end)
5_Should you desire to go w/ an aftermarket bushing set, the sway bar OD is 1 1/16".
The Center-to-Center bolts used to hold the bracket is about 3 5/8".
The bracked height is 2 1/4" overall.
Link to Chrysler Pacifica Shop Manual, how to replace sway bar bushings: Chrysler Pacifica Stabilizer Bar Bushing Replacement
Jay
#15
01-07-2012, 06:21 PM
I have this same issue. Clunking was there, although very intermittent, since I bought it from Carmax 3 years ago next month. They could not replicate/find the problem, the noise, so nothing ever got done. 6 months ago I replced the sway bar links, and the control arms (mechanic)... crunching sound continues. Tie rod replaced on driver side, sound continues. I do have a bad CV axle/joint w/e, which needs to be replaced soon on driver side (passenger side unknown), so gonna have to replace that anyway, so I will see if the sound continues after that, if so, then sway bar bushings it is... So annoying and the ride is so rough, blaming it on the CV axle for now..... shocks are supposed to be fine...
Also, been having a heck of a time getting it to pass emmissions. Light is on (since soon after I got it) for vacuum system leak, like .003mm. Carmax replaced the gas cap and this fixed it for some time, but it's back for 2 years. Also had catalytic converter code come up.... My mechanic said to change the o2 sensor (and not sure if the car has 1 or 2) first, as this may cause the problem. And he said the car is probably using alot more gas than it should if it's the sensor, which it is using more gas than it should... So fingers crossed it's the O2 sensor and NOT the cat conv.
Also, been having a heck of a time getting it to pass emmissions. Light is on (since soon after I got it) for vacuum system leak, like .003mm. Carmax replaced the gas cap and this fixed it for some time, but it's back for 2 years. Also had catalytic converter code come up.... My mechanic said to change the o2 sensor (and not sure if the car has 1 or 2) first, as this may cause the problem. And he said the car is probably using alot more gas than it should if it's the sensor, which it is using more gas than it should... So fingers crossed it's the O2 sensor and NOT the cat conv.
#16
01-09-2012, 10:13 PM
Clunk in the front
Well, I discovered another issue in the same area. The strut started loosening and clunking with hard braking and reverse. But mine has high miles and may not necessarily apply to others here. The strut is firmly in place, but the inside parts are working loose to make sort of a stick-in-a-bottle metallic sound.
The emissions matter is puzzling and unexpected.
The CV joint noise may mask a second cause of sounds.
The catalytic concern seems suspect to me. About 30,000 miles ago I had to replace the sensor. I only knew about it because of the dash warning light. Otherwise, it operated normally.
Jincho
The emissions matter is puzzling and unexpected.
The CV joint noise may mask a second cause of sounds.
The catalytic concern seems suspect to me. About 30,000 miles ago I had to replace the sensor. I only knew about it because of the dash warning light. Otherwise, it operated normally.
Jincho
I have this same issue. Clunking was there, although very intermittent, since I bought it from Carmax 3 years ago next month. They could not replicate/find the problem, the noise, so nothing ever got done. 6 months ago I replced the sway bar links, and the control arms (mechanic)... crunching sound continues. Tie rod replaced on driver side, sound continues. I do have a bad CV axle/joint w/e, which needs to be replaced soon on driver side (passenger side unknown), so gonna have to replace that anyway, so I will see if the sound continues after that, if so, then sway bar bushings it is... So annoying and the ride is so rough, blaming it on the CV axle for now..... shocks are supposed to be fine...
Also, been having a heck of a time getting it to pass emmissions. Light is on (since soon after I got it) for vacuum system leak, like .003mm. Carmax replaced the gas cap and this fixed it for some time, but it's back for 2 years. Also had catalytic converter code come up.... My mechanic said to change the o2 sensor (and not sure if the car has 1 or 2) first, as this may cause the problem. And he said the car is probably using alot more gas than it should if it's the sensor, which it is using more gas than it should... So fingers crossed it's the O2 sensor and NOT the cat conv.
Also, been having a heck of a time getting it to pass emmissions. Light is on (since soon after I got it) for vacuum system leak, like .003mm. Carmax replaced the gas cap and this fixed it for some time, but it's back for 2 years. Also had catalytic converter code come up.... My mechanic said to change the o2 sensor (and not sure if the car has 1 or 2) first, as this may cause the problem. And he said the car is probably using alot more gas than it should if it's the sensor, which it is using more gas than it should... So fingers crossed it's the O2 sensor and NOT the cat conv.
#17
01-10-2012, 04:12 PM
Ok, so using the info provided in this thread I was able to source aftermarket polyurethane bushings made by Energy Suspension. These are not direct fit but they bolt on with the new brackets that are included with the kit.
The part number is 9.5169R. the bracket needs a slight modification, I cut one one of the bolt slots straight through to match how the factory bracket was. This makes it easier for install and to make sure the bolts are straight for the reinstall. You do not want to cross thread the nut in the engine cradle, the slots on the new bracket are right at the limit of the bolt holes. Also you will need to put something around the stabilizer bar to ket it from moving as the new bushings are narrower. I used industrial zip ties.
Any questions just post back, I am subscribed to is thread and get an email when there is a post.
The car handles like it is on rails now. no waddling going down the road or clunking.
Jay
The part number is 9.5169R. the bracket needs a slight modification, I cut one one of the bolt slots straight through to match how the factory bracket was. This makes it easier for install and to make sure the bolts are straight for the reinstall. You do not want to cross thread the nut in the engine cradle, the slots on the new bracket are right at the limit of the bolt holes. Also you will need to put something around the stabilizer bar to ket it from moving as the new bushings are narrower. I used industrial zip ties.
Any questions just post back, I am subscribed to is thread and get an email when there is a post.
The car handles like it is on rails now. no waddling going down the road or clunking.
Jay
#18
01-11-2012, 10:14 PM
Well I didn't listen to the advice on this forum regarding Bosch O2 sensors, only because no one had anything but... Now I have p0135 & p0138 errors. We took a trip right afterwards and immediately while idling the car went from sputtering to giving too much gas pushing the car fists. I've ordered ntk replacements, waiting for them to arrive so mechanic can swap them out & I can return the Bosch ones. Also the car used to pull really bad, not like hey I need an alignment, but like the car pulling hard to left n right, slipping. I'm sure many PPL have thought we were drunk. Got somewhat better after control arms which have the ball joints on them & sway bar links replaced. Talked to mechanic about possible sway bar bushings problem and he looked and said he believes they were on sway bar links, do therefore new... Don't know if he is right or not, butwe couldn't find anything else. Btw, mechanic isn't certified, but knows a good deal n knows his limits. I'm on a fixed income supporting 4 kids n spouse LOL do have Yo do what I have to do... Will update after replacing o2 sensors. Hopefully will be able Yo get
#19
01-11-2012, 10:24 PM
Hopefully will be able to get emissions passed after replacement... Then tackling cv axle (worried about safety too if we don't fix soon but has to wait till months pay, and also alternator replacement most likely. Also had that clunking on hard breaking when bought the car, just happens way more often now. Alternator making crunching sound, with Rust shavings spattered around from brains. Pulley tensioner wheel just replaced cuz mechanic saw it wobbling some n thought n
It might fix noise, but nope... So want to replace... Interested to see if it fixes my really hard shifting intermittent problems from park to reverse or drive... Found this info on this forum also. Also my battery goes dead very fast, replaced, still issue. Don't know if its just from so many things coming on when door opened or what...
It might fix noise, but nope... So want to replace... Interested to see if it fixes my really hard shifting intermittent problems from park to reverse or drive... Found this info on this forum also. Also my battery goes dead very fast, replaced, still issue. Don't know if its just from so many things coming on when door opened or what...
#20
01-11-2012, 10:32 PM
My car has about 120k + miles. Reason we're looking at o2 sensors is because we had a one time code of cat inefficiency come up, o2 sensors never been changed & mechanic said they only good for about 30k. I'm getting @ 15k mpg & he said replacement can help that too. The car has been guzzling gas. I think 15 mpg is not true tho, I think its worse. Went to Baltimore, put 50 in tank. Went about 100 miles n tank was on E.