Chrysler Pacifica Luxury meets versatility in this mid-sized sport utility vehicle

2007 Chrysler Pacifica Engine Mount (all 3) replacement

  #1  
Old 07-08-2018, 07:34 PM
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Default 2007 Chrysler Pacifica Engine Mount (all 3) replacement

Hi folks, I'm here to get help with replacing the engine mounts on a 2007 Pacifica FWD 4.0L with 6sp auto. I have found at least a half dozen you-tube videos that detail the process pretty clearly. They all lump pacificas into 2004-2008, which is the model years they are built. The 4.0L engine mount setup (2007-08) is not the same in these ways, and nobody mentions it:

The passenger side mount is exactly the same. No problems here. The two driver side mount, front and rear (big cylindrical looking things) are different from 04-06 3.5L and 07-08 4.0L. How do I know? Different part numbers and the they are different shape, still a big rubber/metal cylinder but the bolts stick out differently. Also, the 07-08 have cast aluminum engine to mount brackets, while every youtube video shows a stamped steel bracket, presumably from 04-06.

Here's where I'm at-- I have the front of vehicle secure on jackstands with room to work around the subframe/engine. Removed passenger side engine mount (u shaped thing), which allowed me to raise the engine enough to pull both the front mount bracket (cast aluminum) and the mount itself. I had to drop the subframe a few bolt turns to do this. I suspect I can wiggle the new mount and bracket in and bolt it into place.

However, when feeling out the rear, there is a whole lot of weight on that mount-- I've removed top and bottom mount bolts, but the cast aluminum bracket still remains (haven't located those bolts yet, hard to see) so the weight is keeping the mount against the subframe.

Here's where I need help: Do I install the new front mount components first, tighten up front subframe bolts, then proceed to the rear, and simply unbolt rear mount bracket and lower REAR of subframe a bit? That would make sense to me, but it would put a lot of weight on the new front mount and I don't know if I'll get enough clearance to remove and replace the back mount. Or should I leave the front mount unhooked, then proceed to lower the rear subframe a bit to [hopefully] remove and replace the rear mount. I'll probably need another jack to support the rear of the subframe a bit to do that.

The old mount that was on the front was torn around the entire circumference of one of the bolts, no wonder the engine vibrated and transmission shifts liked to kick a bit. How often am I looking at replacing mounts?
 
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Old 07-10-2018, 08:43 PM
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For anyone that stumbles upon this in the future here's what I experienced changing the three mounts:

Level of difficulty - 5
First-time-frustration - 7.5

Top one is pretty simple. Take off airbox, support engine from oil pan, remove 5 bolts and replace. Easy peasy. So my description below will only apply to the bottom mounts. I'll call the mounts FRONT and REAR, meaning lower front mount (toward radiator) and lower rear mount (toward back of car).

Pretty much the same method/procedures shown on countless Youtube videos apply to the 07-08 4.0L also. The two bottom brackets (that hold engine to rubber mount) are aluminum on the 4.0L, whereas they were stamped steel in all the Youtube videos which only show 04-06 models with the 3.5L. The mount is different on the 4.0L make sure you order the correct ones. Same look to them, but different part number than the 3.5L mounts. Upper mount needs to be removed during this process.

The way everything is bolted together is ENGINE -[bolted to] BRACKET -[bolted to] MOUNT-[bolted to subframe]. I started by getting all hardware that held the mounts on taken off. There's a top nut and bottom nut on each lower mount. The top nut for the rear mount is accessible only from the rear, underneath the car. If you have AWD (I don't) this could be a real nightmare as I suspect the empty tunnel which gave me semi-easy access to this nut will be filled up with a transfer case, driveshaft and other goodies. Actually it will probably make everything about that rear mount challenging because you have to get to it all from under the vehicle. So long story short the four nuts holding the mounts on have to come off. Next take the bottom ones off. The studs won't let the engine go anywhere.

Now jack driver side of the engine to where you feel just a slight bit of play in the mounts. Be sure everything is secure the entire time you are doing this, because your jacks / jackstands are holding up the engine and transmission. Pick a spot that looks the most rugged, I used the flexplate cover (bellhousing you might call it), and when I needed just a BIT more height (when it was time to get the new mounts back in), I used another jack underneath the differential to give me a few more millimeters. Keep in mind your oil pan has to remain supported the entire time, because you have the upper mount taken off.

Then remove the aluminum brackets. The front mount had three bolts, they are all different sizes so I marked them T, M and L for top, middle, lower. One bolt is a challenge as there is no space, but otherwise this went smooth. It also had a small bolt holding a metal line to it. For the rear, if you have an AWD model (mine is FWD) you might be in for a real treat. On the rear mount, the bracket bolts are fairly accessible from underneath with your arms reaching up toward them, but I suspect the big empty tunnel I had available to me would be filled with a transfer case, driveshaft and other fun stuff making access to that mount a nightmare. The rear bolts are all the same. Okay so brackets unbolted, mounts loose (nuts taken off), and engine/transaxle supported. You need all three things at this point.

To physically get room to move the mounts/brackets out, you have to lower the subframe. I never had to touch the rear passenger subframe bolt, just the other three. If a subframe bolt happens to come out all the way, be sure to turn it back in a few threads for safety. Do one at time, you don't want the subframe falling on you! This should give you plenty of room to finagle them out. You might find yourself having to make incremental adjustments to the height of your jacks.

Now slap the new ones in and position the brackets where they need to be. On the mounts there is a key that fits into a dimple in the backets-- the two have to line up, that ensures the mounts are in the correct orientation. I thought it best to bolt brackets to engine first, then top mount nuts, then tighten your subframe bolts to 120 ft-lb. Now put the mount nuts on the bottom back on (that hold mount to subframe). The go back and do the reverse of everything you did to get here. Check twice that you're not missing anything, make sure you have no orphaned bolts at the end.

You might be able to do one at a time, but I thought I would have more ability to manuever the engine around if I removed both mounts then reinstalled them. I can't say if what I did is the CORRECT procedure but it worked-- nothing looked unsafe as long as you are supporting everything securely. Probably best to get alignment checked after. I've always been told it's necessary when messing with the subframe, but I don't know if just loosening a couple bolts would cause any real movement. If someone knows for sure, please chime in here. Before and after difference with new mounts is incredible, now the car drives as good as it looks. I just hope these last a while.
 
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