Hello,

I have a 2007 Pacifica 4.0L. I've been battling a problem with no heat. I drained the cooling system and flushed. I also back flowed air through the heater and no clogs were found.

I refilled the system with coolant and bled the air through the left side bleeder screw. The heater has air in it still and I'm not sure how to bleed the air out.

Is there a special procedure to bleed the heater? Is there a diversion valve somewhere that might be sticking?

Thanks in advance!

 

did you ever figure it out, im battling the same thing

 

Try jacking the car up on one side, as you put the coolant back in so where you are pouring the fuel in, is the highest point. Let it run a bit to move air/coolant around and top up until all the air is out. Once done remove the jack.

 

Find a big funnel like a 1 gal or so. Wrap a rag around the end so it will seal into the filler neck. Add antifreeze till it is 3 inches or so deep. Start the car and let it warm up. The bubbles will be coming up in the funnel. After all the bubbling has stopped stick a big screwdriver with a rag wrapped around the end into the funnel and remove the funnel. Install the cap and you are good to go.

 

Nick-T, did you have this problem before you did all the flushing ? I remember something about a blend door keeping heat from coming out. '04 service manual says to refill to the max line, start and fully warm and cool down, do this several times to get the air out. *B2*

 

[Fyi: what ever symptoms led you to this point may be a sign of a larger or different issue]

Besides the bleeder at the top of the radiator on the passenger side, there is another bleeder on top of the housing that has the thermostat. The bleeder is like a brake bleeder and it is kind of hidden by other cabling running on top of it. It's on top, towards the engine, behind the outlet to the heater, facing the rear of the engine compartment - if you follow the inlet hose from the heater core, you'll be right next to it. While car is running, you let it purge just a bit to release the air lock; also helps if you backfill the heater core directly through that inlet hose .

I found the radiator bleeder kinda tricky due to the pressure changing and the thermostat. It works better as a gravity bleed rather than a purge, ie with the system as full as possible and the car Not running, fluid should come out as it's the second highest point apart from the resevoir [helps if you can park the car at a slight angle downward]

 

I have found that with the pacifica and town and country of this period, that warming up slightly too hot (remove the cooling fan 40a fuse for 5 mins), then shutting down while parked facing downhill on an incline and allowing to cool down, helps push bubbles up and into the reservoir. Sometimes jacking the driver side rear can help. Air seems to get trapped in that heater core splitter where the thermostat is located, and this prevents the rest of the system from priming properly as the thermostat does not open correctly.

 

Also: most instructions say put heat on full blast. This is incorrect here for some reason. If you have the stock climate controls, you have 6 bars for fan speed, turn it to 5/6 and turn on the rear (not on auto) has 10 clicks past off, turn it to 7/10.

Once you have good heat in the front vents, turn rear control to off, let it stop. Then slowly dial it up to 10/10. Repeat in conjunction with revving for thermostat plunge. Keep front heat at 5/6 entire time.

 

The driver side rear would not be the correct lift point for the dual heater core 08 t&c touring . It is the correct lift point for helping free the most likely point of trapped air bubbles in the 07 4.0 pacifica.

be aware that these chryslers have issues with degradation of the lower intake manifold gasket in the spot closest to the thermostat housing. This is why they keep relocating the thermostat and heater core split

 

First 2 comments are not correct. you always want the radiator cap to be the high point always. This is the highest point in the system that all air will end up. The Turning on the heater inside the cabin will do nothing. There are no valves that open or close the coolant to allow it to flow threw the heater core. The coolant is always flowing threw the heater core no matter what temperature you set the temp inside to be.

3rd connect same issue lilting the rear of the car will only allow the air to travel up to the back of the car not to the front where the radiator cap is at.
As for the lower intake manifold gasket some truth that but that was 3.8 engines not the 3.5 or 4.0. Using the correct coolant in the car eliminates the eroding of the metal and causing leaks.