Basic the car is telling you status while making service you just need to read the signs.

 

Hi @dieselvoyager,
Sorry but not quite accurate there. This is the 2.8CRD 2004/2005 and it has the electric primer/lift pump and filter assembly to the rear, in front of the rear axle beside the fuel tank.

Here is the lift pump and filter assembly under the rear of the car:



And after I've removed the plastic lower casing, and then removed the filter, this is the remainder of the pump.
O-Ring and plastic pump housing/casing all looked fine, no cracks or damage, so don't think this is where my issue is.



This is looking up at the pump inside the housing:



And the fuel lines heading to the front of the vehicle, look in good condition. In fact these and the tank look relatively new and in decent condition, anyone has an opinion on these fuel lines? I think they must have been replaced before I got the car.



So onwards again, I'm going to replace the crankshaft position sensor, I've got a VM motori ordered so should be here in a few days time.

Also, thanks @QinteQ yes I've discovered the 702 not quite getting all the readings I'd hoped for, amazingly it gets the SRS and the other stuff, just not the realtime injectors, pressure, etc, data!

BTW: I added a diesel cleaner to the tank and made no difference, so I'm suspecting nothing to do with the diesel now, and weather is warmer now and still the same so also not the diesel slushing up!

@goggs which pressure/temp sensor did you replace that was relating to the cutting out on power? Just to get any other ideas on sensors that might be causing the ECU to cut power/kill engine power as that's my other area of thinking as well as pressure related.

cheers as always folks, the saga continues, I'm hoping I'm back on the road soon!

 

aaah yes retro fit that is nice.

sound like Your prop valve on high pressure pump is proberly stuck . When demand more fuel the engine will stall.

If you could get a tester read out wile driving you can see the rail pressure is way to low .

This is just guessing , had this problem ones after the lift pump fail and throws small metal parts into the HP pump lucky it was only the prop valve took damage.

It could drive all day long with out problems but if you left it idle a few minuts it would stall when try to drive again.

had sevral specalists including my self looking on this fail for months with out luck.
It could idle some times 45 - 120 minuts before the fail show up , but I notis the rail pressure read out wile running the pressure just drop slowly and this course the engine to stall when trying to drive again and some times the valve moved to raise pressure and over shot so the pressure was getting way to high , and this is easy to hear course it sound like an old VW 1.6 diesel cold start in - 20 deg. C.

This error did not all ways set engine light(glow light on 2.5CRD) Think it depends in witch order is error is stack in ECM ending up not telling any thing. A fail injector can some time set the engine light(low rail pressure)

I got a pic in my folder with the tester screen read up wile engine in idle.

 

Did you check the wire harness from below battery tray (left wheel arch) to the transmision (to the engine) some times the wires is broken and can set a lot of weird errors or non at all .

 

The diesels is a little tricky course chrysler didn't care about the ECU/ECM if it was a gas model it will set an error if a sensor it is out of range but diesels it dos not all ways.

If it's the crank/cam sensor it will cut the engine and definitely set an error in ECM.

Air Temp / pressure sensor intake will proberly not cut engine only the rail pressure sensor "very low pressure" I know for sure.

Check the wire harness 9 out of 10 times it's a wire and not the sensor , sure the sensor can go bad but the root course offen is a bad wire/connector. or a 3 party related to the error but not shown in the ECM.

Chrysler wire harness is not very good quality , and poor preformance with a diesel.

Just ask Dodge Ram diesel owners with a harness from mexico .

 

Thanks again!
So, checked all connectors and main connector block, nothing looks an issue there.

Have now replaced the crankshaft position sensor (Right rear of engine block) and no difference, so that's something else eliminated.

I've also re-checked key-dance codes:

These are interesting codes, which have got me looking at the Fuel Pressure Solenoid, I'm going to wire a test LED onto it and determine if it's the ECU shutting the solenoid off or not as that may be a key pointer to why it's being shutdown.

I also drove it a while today, which I can providing I keep revs below 2.6k (ish) so driving around without being heavy footed and the car will happily run at 40Mph without cutting out. As soon as you boot it and revs go high for a second or so then it'll immediately stall out. After a stall it takes a few cranks before it'll fire and start up again, perhaps indicating starvation of fuel and having to re-prime the system? (Guessing here!)

Any other suggestions before I start randomly replacing sensors!

 

Replying to myself as I'm good at that, helps the grey matter do a bit of brainstorming!

I've connected an LED to the solenoid supply connector, so when the fuel solenoid was energised by the ECU it was lit up. The solenoid energises in second key position (run position) and stays on until key is turned off. I went for a test run and the LED didn't go off at all, so that leads me to conclude the ECU is NOT shutting the solenoid off whilst running, so it's not 'killing' the engine, which goes back to fuel starvation.

I found another interesting thing, I had to push the car harder to get it to stall this time, really had to floor it to make it die, so not sure if this indicates it's getting better? Anyway, when it did die, I let it coast to the side of the road and shifted the auto shifter to N. I then turned the key straight back to starter motor position (It was in run position obviously) and starter motor turned, turned turned and it just wouldn't fire, even with wiggling accelerator. Tried a few times and it just wouldn't fire.

I turned key off, and back on (Heard lift pump run) and it immediately fired. That makes me go back to, fuel starvation, when the engine is needing a lot of fuel, it's almost sucking it's fuel line dry and dying due to lack of fuel. Reasonable assumption?
This makes me less think of pressure sensors, electrical sensors, and back to mechanics, fuel starvation to the HP fuel pump somehow.

 

Did you read what I wrote to you ??

Prop valve on the HP pump is not on and off valve it's analog so this thing with a diode or what ever won't tell you any thing other when there is a small current.

You can't see if it moving or not if you don't read the rail pressure.

So if you think it's the valve it around 80 euro.

And I told you so about the crank sensor 1-100 it's the sensor 99 it's wire or connector.

If it's a broken wire a tester read out is not much worth , around here a read out is 100£ so with a little work trace and finde the broken wire in the place I told you .

 

3-4 times pr month I get Voyager diesel in with a failure , 9 out of 10 it's a electrical failure and offen it course a mechanical faliure also , jamm EGR valve or grunk in the turbo/intercooler running lean courses high temp in combusting chamber. Then you can guess what is happing with injectors piston, head valves ect.

It's money in the pocket every time but I just curse the chrysler engineers every time . many of this errors could be without if the ECU was program right.

 

There is no fuel solenoid in a commonrail fuel system , it's call a proportioning valve or metering valve control by a PWM signal.
You can try meassure the pwm signal but you still don't know if it actualy moves and adjust to the set point . so you need to read the rail pressure .